errol209

Google is your friend: 28x4.com, would you believe I've never dealt with them.

I'd go for a timing issue first, as it isn't doing it all the time (so not injectors). When you say under load, is that always or only at high revs or only at low revs? When did you last do the timing belt (and fuel filter)?

In that case I would also try changing the 12V wire from coil to distributor, as you may have disturbed a bad connection.

I'd say so, but I haven't worked that bit out myself yet, as there are two "ones"!

How about oily stuff between the engine intake manifold and the turbo charger? Take the top hose off the intercooler, it'll give you an idea of what's going on. Black smoke is typically unburnt diesel, so either: There isn't enough air getting in (cos the turbo isn't working, the inlet hose to the turbo is collapsing or there is a leak in the pipes between the turbo and the engine) or Low compression (head gasket failed) or Too much diesel (injector pump issue) or Late injection (timing problem). But we'll start with the easy tests!

I'd go for the battery cut-off, as it saves faffing with an extra switch and they are pretty much indestructible. a 70A relay should handle 70A all day long, so 55A shouldn't worry it, if you decide to go that way.

Pssst - want to know a secret? Taking BH108111L as an example, B means bolt (not threaded to the head), the "08" means M8 (so you can have 06, 10, 12, 14 etc.) and the next two digits (11 in this case) tell you how many multiples of 5mm long it is (so 55mm in this case). You can now approach your local fastening purveyor with confidence!

White is steam, which means water somewhere (assuming the engine wasn't cold), and blue is engine oil. Headgasket has to be the first choice.

... and then I'd check how much oil the turbo is spewing into the air intake ...

BH108111L is 55mm long x M8

Er - an electronic distributor in a 1988 2.5P? Sounds like you have aftermarket thingy You may (also) have a fault with the 12V side. The circuit should go: some kind of ignition feed (this is normally a white wire on a LR) goes to one spade terminal on the coil, and another wire goes from the other spade terminal on the coil to the spade terminal on the distributor (the stock wire colour is white with a black stripe). With the ignition on, see where you get 12V, but disconnect the distrubutor end first.

There are different part numbers for "early" vehicles, with two part cappings: MWC4662 or MWC4686 RH CAPPING MWC4663 or MWC4687 LH CAPPING MWC3316 RH ANGLE MWC3317 LH ANGLE Then one-piece cappings (equivalent to the numbers Ralph gave) MXC5978 or MXC5968 Capping right hand MXC5979 or MXC5969 Capping left hand Also, try herefor a bewildering but possibly useful list!

It doesn't hold a lot, and the workshop manual doesn't say either. A 250ml bottle should be plenty for the clutch alone.

That's got to be up there for a private vehicle! (mine has 140,000, 1988 90TD)

Jack the wonky wheel (the one that looks wrong) just off the ground. Hold the wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and rock it gently side to side - does it make a noise, move a little and then go clunk, or something like that? Hold the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and do the same thing - does it make a clunk noise, move a little and then go clunk or something? If it does it on both tests it's probably the wheel bearings loose or worn (Tenhnical archive guide to adjusting wheel bearings here, replacing them here. If it only does it on the second test (12 / 6) then its probably only the swivel pin bearings / bushes, Archive guide here though this is for a Disco, the principles are the same. The workshop manual bit is here, pdf page 49.

This is the tool mentioned above, though it is a bit of a luxury!. Cheap washing liquid will help the fitting process, but don't go mad and rinse off as much as you can afterwards.

As Mickeyw says, by time you've separated the roof and sides you might as well have undone the sides from the body, the top door hinge at the back, the door seals and the half dozen bolts along the windscreen frame top - its actually less nuts and bolts - and lift it all off.

Lovely blue cardboard boxes in a range of handy sizes ...

[humour] How are they going to stop the nuts going round? You'd need to do them up tight... Surely castellated nuts and split pins would be best, or failing that a tack of weld onto the rim? [/humour] Nord-lock will do you some fancy re-usable washers, you just need the right taper for the rims.

Ghost14, If you slacken the fan belt off, is the alternator pulley and shaft loose in the alternator? Does it make a grinding noise? I have a hunch...

If its within 300mm of a body or suspension attachment point, yes If you can find some good metal to weld to, yes . However, as reb78 sayeth, go forth with LR tool No.1 and seek out the tin worm, or trouble my ensue Mwa ha ha ... sorry.

Notwithstanding the foregoing, there are two bits of elastic-trickery magic inside an alternator. One is the much discussed diode or rectifier pack, which turns wiggly AC into nice smooth DC, but there is also a regulator pack, which controls the output voltage by twiddling the field winding strength. (circuit diagram of alternator for you, if it helps) If your charge light gets dimmer / brighter / stays on / won't come on and your alternator isn't chucking out 14V+ and your battery is going flat, then I think it is the regulator circuit myself. Overall, have the bugger out and get yourself to an auto-electrical specialist place - they can test it, fix it and replace it if needs be. You can self-repair alternators, but I (speaking only fot me) wouldn't bother.

In that case, you might be better of with the shorter one, so it doesn't close up completely at minimum articulation (but, given LRs build tolerances, this is all a bit hypothetical ). So, have we arrived at the right answer?

No, I give up. What are they? I can't see your reverse light wiring (but the two loose sockets are both the wrong colour wiring anyway) and the four way appears to be B / B / B / WB, which isn't on any of my diagrams.

Mechanically, if you've got a little lift going on then use the slightly longer one, but that's not the answer you wanted