errol209

If it still blows the fuse with no bulb then it must be wiring, so it could be at any point where the wirng could chafe (including in the back of the fusebox). Can you disconnect the bumper lights from the others? Might narrow things down too. Happy hunting.

Or a print of the right page in Owners Manual: Google "Defender Owners Manual" for a download from LR themselves.

The Technical Archive knows all things ...

I'll kick off the list with corroded socket / corroded wiring in area of said tail light.

The workshop manual covering the 2.5NAD diesel is in the Technical Archive, here, and a guide to doing the timing is here.

My two guess are - the rear loom is defective, or the lighting switch is defective. If you've got a multimeter, have you tried testing for voltage starting at the switch? The diagram shows the front and rear coming off different terminals. You could also do a continuity check from one end of the rear loom to the other to eliminate it as an issue.

That sounds like the thermoswitch being slow to open and arcing. (they are typically a a pressure switch (Kenlowe) or a bimetallic strip (X-eng)). You could have tried a suppression capacitor across the thermo switch to damp the arc. Go for a standard 30A one, they're common and cheap enough.

£1 duly donated. Ha. Oh, hang on ...

Is the rear loom for the series 3 or the 2A? Have you got any wires (particulary red ones) left over? Are you using the the 2A switches or the ones from a 3? Have you got a wiring diagram? This is the series 3 one: Land_Rover_Series_III_wiring.pdf 9 and 10 are the tail lights, 24 is the S3 lighting switch. From Landroverweb book 6, page 48.

£1 to the forum he says 2.5TD

Thanks Quagmire! OK. So the connectors on the back of the dual temperature X-fan switch (Intermotor) look like this: So for a single speed single fan with always on / off / thermostatic arrangement looks like this: And the same but with two temperatures and two fans is: The reason there is no over-ride (always on) shown on the higher temp fan is that if the engine is hot enough to need the second fan the X-switch will connect it up for you. If you want a dual speed circuit for a single fan I'll need to know exactly what current the fan motor draws ...

And the debate is qualitative anyway - letting more microscopic cr*p into the engine cannot be better, so it must be worse. If you value your engine, making things worse is not the way you want to go. With things like this I'm in the "LR did for a good reason, however shaky that reason was" camp. So the LR air filter is over engineered? Good! From here, about half way down.

Happy to help

Sleep is a wonderful thing. Permission to change my mind? Ta. You can just randomly connect to any two tabs, but this may mean you end up connecting to opposite ends of both thermostat switches (e.g. it won't come on until both temperatures have been exceeded). I couldn't find a connector layout for these, so unless someone has worked it out already I'd suggest using a bowl of water from the kettle and a multimeter to work out which pin is which. Sorry for the second thoughts.

Subject to confirmation, this type of switch is probably rated at most at 5A, and I'll bet the Disco has a relay in the circuit. (I haven't got the Disco wiring diagram to hand). Fridge Freezer's Theory of Land Rover Electricians strikes again. No. No. and NO. Without the manufacturer's data sheet (or a marking on the switch) there is no safe way of knowing. I appreciate you might have been joking, but let's not, please. The most risk-free route would be to splash out on the relay anyway, or re-think your choice of switch, unless someone can conjure up the rating for the switch.

If you don't give the pump somewhere to send the fluid to you won't do the pump any good and the little bit of fluid will get hot. A temporary fix might be connect the outlet ond inlet together via a loop of pipe, but you'd be pumping stuff for no reason. Might be easier in the long run to whip the pump off and shift things about, and then re-arrange it again when the time comes?

This may help: From here, part 9, page 18 in the pdf.

OK, Don't buy a kit, it isn't worth it. The things you need to do are: - Extend the big hole where the air goes in (=snorkel) - Fill all the little ones between there and the engine (like in the bottom of the air filter housing, etc) - The main gearox and transfer box have breather points and these should already be fitted - Front and rear axle breathers (these already have breather holes, but may not have the pipes on). If not, they are 1/8 BSP threaded, just ripe to fit some 1/8"BSP 6mm right angle connectors (from Ebay, for instance, for quids). Run some 6mm OD nylon pipe (also on Ebay) from these to just under the bonnet, in the engine compartment. - Get the wading plugs for the bellhousing drain hole and the timing cover drain hole and fit them prior to wading. Remove them after use. You should now be able to exceed the 500mm LR recommended maximum wading depth by a small amount without major damage If feel the need to spend all day up to the seatbases in water, you could also consider adding breathers to the bell housing and timing cover, connecting all the breathers together to a manifold on the bulkhead and then running one line up your snorkel. Also, the ECU is under the seats (if you have such a thing, an ECU that is) so move that too. if you have an electric fan consider fitting an off switch to stop it burning out under water, but fit a warning light to remind you. Regular dashboard-level wading will play havoc with upholstery, radios, instruments, etc., so I wouldn't go there.

Three? On the thermostat switch? So you bought the dual temperature jobbie? Drum roll: If you only want to use the lower of the two temperature settings, it doesn't matter which two you use.

About 5 or more degrees higher that your radiator thermostat opens at, so about 90 - 95oC. There have been a few threads on this this year, if you have a search.

Just put the thermostat on end of the "thermostat controlled" wire and then run a wire from the other 'stat terminal to your relay. Simples!

I got mine from a fishing tackle shop: they also sell them in cookery shops!

Sorry, the "too" was in reference to the comment in Marks110's post, sorry. I've done some digging and the concensus is that the oil pressure switch is 1/8 NPT.

I'm pretty sure thats 1/8 NPT too ...

Have you gone through all the things on here?