errol209

There isn't a relay for the wipers on a 2.5TD (I'm on firm ground here). The wiring (four wires, one green, three have a light green stripe) just goes from the wiper stalk switch to the wiper motor. There isn't an intermittent on this age of 90, just a single wipe (push down, spring return, broken on mine ). Slow and slower sounds right to me, but the motors can get tired and need replacing.

Oh, do you mean a relay? Is yours a 200Tdi?

My 1988 TD 90 has Down: single wipe Off Up 1: Very slow speed Up 2: Slightly faster speed Also: Solenoid? The one for the starter motor, located on top of the starter motor? Or something else?

Afternoon Tyrone, welcome to LR4x4.com, make yourself at home!

Can I suggest the very obvious? Did you adjust the new carb when you fitted it? Do you know its history (i.e. are you sure its a good 'un?)

The "1025" bit is the key as its the length of the belt - anywhere that sells fanbelts will have one, just match the size to this.

Which engine please? Just seen your other post. Can you put the vehicle details in your sig, makes getting the answer right so much simpler! NTC3543 should fit, but beware the cheapo ones - the expansion tank line isn't always in the right place.

I like to think the best of people, until proved otherwise

Covered in this thread here - 1/4 BSP.

No worries Thierry, and Mr Fridge is really nice, really, honest. You just hit a nerve ... You sound like a proper sufferer victim addict, you'll be just fine on here. Errol

Natas, Any jobs for railway engineers out there? Tidy truck, fantastic scenery but "Homo" can't be the dog's real name, surely? I might have to have the last pic on my desktop to cheer myself up, could you send me a decent res. file please?

Hmm, I can't seem to follow your logic. The pin switch is normally closed (as in short circuit when the door is open) and therefore open circuit when the door is closed. Secondly, electrical faults that cure themselves when you remove a part are normally the fault of the part you've removed My vote is that the switch and wiring are OK, and in fact the door isn't in the right place to push the switch fully in ( make it open circuit). It can't be the wiring, because the wiring on its own works just fine ... Try this: work out where the pin switch touches the door (probably the shiny patch) and gaffer tape a penny piece over it, to push the switch in further (I'm assuming the switch is on the bulkhead).

I have to say I find the BBC refusing to use Land Rover because it was advertising and using Jeep instead both hilarious and sad. Land Rover is (well, mostly is) a British company, making (mostly) British designed 4x4 utility and luxury cars in Britain. The militaries of the world still buy Land Rovers in quantity after nearly 60 years. Jeep is an North American company making typically North American lifestyle SUVs in America (and Germany). The military no longer buy Jeeps in quantity. Spot the differences? OK, Maurice Wilks borrowed a few tricks of the Willy's machines in 1947/8, but calling a Land Rover a Jeep is like calling a Dyson a Hoover. [/rant]

Mornin' and welcome aboard Cookie!

Or beaten with a starting handle? Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic. - Arthur C Clarke

A few additions ... I also missed the bit. on those tyres? FF - the colour's the best bit!

Not every LR owner ... Anyway what Mr Fridge is commenting on is this: If this was QI ... Anyway, starting a given engine at a given temperature, etc. takes the same energy no matter what. In fact, a bigger (more cold cranking amps (CCA)) battery will do better than a small one at low outside temperatures, as it will spin the engine as fast (or faster) for longer. Both the big and the little battery will lose the same amount of stored energy, which the alternator will try and put back. The problem is when the small battery can't supply the current required for the duration of starting the engine, in which case it will suffer damage as it becomes heavily discharged, or the alternator is too small for the engine. Summary - get a battery that will at least source the required CCA (about 400A for an LR diesel, slightly less for a petrol) and will just physically fit in the battery tray. If you find that the battery doesn't get charged up fully between starts, fit a bigger alternator.

Click "View new content" - top right - it's almost always in the list! Or, since you asked, click here. If you wait long enough, I suspect Ross will unbuild and re-build the whole thing right before our eyes (Ross - and see you at Billing, if my 90 makes it)

The ugliest lift in the world, by far! A few comments from the pictures: The intercooler will do virtually nothing where it is, apart from making it impossible to get to the front of the engine. The heater won't work (the big pipe from the fan to the heater box is missing) At a 5" lift with wheel spacers in (I think), I'd also wonder how well set the steering geometry is and what state the wheelbearings are in too. If you haven't driven it at road speeds round a few corners do it before you hand over the money. The exhaust routeing is non-standard and rubbish (made me think it was on coils ) I also spy with my little eye a scotchlock connector - be afraid of the wiring, very afraid indeed.

Linky

National holiday over here on Monday, so give them 'til Tuesday.

I modded mine a little, so I didn't have keep finding a spanner, by welding an M12 washer edge-on to the head of each plug. Bit of paint (bellhousing and timing cover are different threads on mine, so white plug at the front, red at the back) and voila, no spanner, and they are hard to lose too! I'll grab a pic when I'm next outside.

Many thanks Tony.

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