errol209

I guess the original reason LR adopted this truly horrid arrangement was to "manage" the usual "tolerances"TM on the chassis and bumper without having a captive nut fixed to the bumper?

Bizarre as this might sound (and I am not joking) you need a stethoscope (aka a short length of garden hose with a small funnel in one end). Apply non-funnel end to your ear, and the funnel mouth to different places. This is going to take ages with such an intermittent noise, and get you the best funny looks going . Work around and under the engine methodically, trying to find where the noise is loudest.

Is this any help? It seems to be a later one, the diagram in my 1963 workshop manual is far more complex!

Did you do the swivel pin bearings too? Sounds like one might be sticking. Watch with Les

Tony, I think I'm going blind - I was looking for a "Les" for another thread, and I can't find it? Where's it hiding ?

Some or all of your questions answered - pdf page 50 onwards. (from the link in our Technical Archive) I think it will probably come in bits ...

Well, at least the wiper motor works! For them to run all the time after "servicing" the column switch my guess is either you've got the wires back in the wrong place or you've dropped something in the switch. As to the list of non-working lights, there isn't a pattern - for instance the sidelights are all fed from one place, with seperate circuits for the left and right sides from the fusebox. This can only really be a break in the wiring in the fusebox. I'd check behind the fuses (two screws) to make sure nothing's broken, melted, cracked, etc. as the stop lamp, reversing lamp and indicators are all fed from fuse 9.

No way to tell easily, I suppose if you jacked each wheel up seperately and turned it by hand on full lock you might hear a difference. The parts'll be new . About £35 each side? Yes. There isn't an obvious one in the technical archive, but there are links to the workshop manuals and a search never hurts. My pleasure.

The B A H A M A S? Y O U L U C K Y B * S T * R D !

Or, just possibly mind, that the tyre lugs are catching on the radius arms at full lock? Otherwise as Les says

I'll keep my eyes peeled too. Scroats! (goes to see which party is in favour of capital punishment for car theft)

I'd guess you'd need to take it to one of those nice turbo refurb specialists, but good S/H ones should be plentiful as 2.5TDs get removed? Try a "wanted". It might just clean up , as jbs suggests below - VVV above - ^^^ (spatial disorientation holds a particular horror at this time of the morning) Anytime, its what the forum is here for!

Feck, feck and double feck - no matter how many times you check ... Sorry Les, but I only have external-valet rights , so I can't fix it. Could some kind hearted Mod correct my grevious error, [tech] (should be showuser=2, not showuser=5) [/tech] and shift it to 't archive? If the contect and style are OK I'll move onto the "it won't start" one

Yes, you'll just get nearly zero boost. But we're down into weirdness now! Take the exhaust elbow off the turbo and check out the actual wastegate flap - the only thing I can think of is that the flap is dodgy (corroded etc.), making it vibrate in the exhuast gas flow. This would fit with the lower boost, as the flap would effectively be part open all the time? Is this so even with the actuator connected? If it is then the actuator is gone.

The "Wobbly Steering" question pops up often on here and there are no doubt thousands of postings with advice and answers. All this post does is collect those answers together into one handy set of links. Hopefully this will be one of a set ... Reported symptoms are clonks when cornering, possessed steering wheels, loss of control over bumps, vagueness in the direction department, MOT failure for lack of steering response and so forth. Vibrations whilst driving is covered elsewhere. So, we're looking here at Defender-style suspensions with swivels, panhard rod, front radius arms, rear trailing arms and a rear A-frame (which includes Disco 1, RRC), The "Watch with Les" articles and other useful guides are all in the Technical Archive, referenced below as required. Then the general suggestion is to work down the list, eliminating things as you go. The major culprits are (in rough order of "cost", but not based on deep research): What did you change last? If you have had new rims / tyres, fitted a large lift, had any part of the suspension serviced or repaired, hit a big rock etc., this should be your starting point for diagnosing the problem. Simple things Check all the bolts are done up to the right torque - for example Try swapping the Tyres around, not just front to rear. If this helps, suspect wheel balance, tyre pressures or bent rims. Wrong Tyre pressures, particulary across front axle How to be certain - check the pressures Fix: Correct the pressures Tracking not adjusted correctly How to be certain - front tyres worn round one edge, steering wheel doesn't centre, really odd cornering Fix: String! Mud in wheels Key symptoms - vibration through the steering wheel worsening as speed increases and then dying away. How to be cetain - visual examination will reveal presence of mud. Fix: remove mud. Wheel balancing not applied How to be certain - wobble, worst at a particular speed on a straight road. Fix: Get them balanced. Knackered shock absorber bush(es) [damper bush(es)] How to be certain - end of shock absorber [damper] loose in hole / on bracket. Fix: new bushes. Panhard Rod Bushes worn Key symptoms - steering "lurches" into corners, large steering wheel travel for little result, steering vague on straights How to be certain - get an assistant to wiggle the steering wheel while you watch the ends of the Panhard Rod to reveal relative movement, but the bolt holes are fine. Fix: new bushes. Panhard Rod bracket holes worn Key symptoms - as above. How to be certain - Oval holes when you get the bolts off, bolt head moves relative to chassis when steering is turned. Fix: weld a washer on each side. Wheel nuts loose / missing How to be certain - you have less than the right number or there is a gap between the rim and the nuts. Fix: Tighten wheel nuts to correct torque / buy new hub, studs and nuts as required, fit and tighten wheel nuts to correct torque. Steering column universal joints worn Key symptoms - steering "lurches" into corners, large steering wheel travel for little result, "stiff" patches in steering wheel travel. How to be certain - get an assistant to wiggle the steering wheel. If the steering wheel moves but the box input shaft doesn't, suspect one or more steering column joints. Fix: one or more new UJs. Track rod ends (TREs) Worn Key symptoms - Steering affected by camber, cornering. Worn edges on tyres. How to be certain - you can see relative movement between steering arm and track rod or drag link, but tyre pressures are OK. Fix: Replace the defective TREs. Steering box drop arm ball joint failed Key symptoms - steering "lurches" into corners, large steering wheel travel for little result. How to be certain - you can see relative movement between steering arm and drag link. Fix: Replace the defective ball joint. Also consider replacing the Defender drop arm for a Discovery one which has a seperate ball joint Swivel Pin preload wrong How to be certain - everything else is solid as a rock but the steering wheel shakes like a live thing around pot-holes Fix: Adjust as described in workshop manual book 4, section 64 page 57 of 102. Wheel bearings loose or failed How to be certain - jack wheel up, grasp at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and rock. More than a tiny movement in this direcion is a problem Fix: Front Rear Bent rim(s) How to be certain - jack one corner up and spin the wheel, it should run true, with the rime at the same height above the ground at all times Fix: New rims Rear A-frame ball joint worn Key symptoms - clonks when cornering. How to be certain - you can see relative movement between the A-frame and axle bracket when levered with a bar. Fix: New A-frame ball joint Radius arm bushes worn How to be certain - lots of fore / aft movement of arms relative to chassis or axle when levered with a bar. Fix: New bushes - Axle end, chassis end steering damper failed / missing How to be certain - remove if present, and excercise damper from fully compressed to fully extended; it should be smooth with some resistance throughout its travel Fix: New damper Knackered shock absorber(s) [dampers] How to be certain - leap on and off the bumper; if there's a problem that corner will bounce about. Any fluid leaking out is a bit wrong too. Fix: new shock absorber(s) [dampers] Diff pinion bearing, transfer box output shaft bearing or prop shaft UJs How to be certain - grasp ends of propshafts and wiggle mightily - there should be no lateral movement. Fix: New diff pinion bearing, output shaft bearing or propshaft UJs. Changing the diff pinion bearing requires the diff off and the procedure is in the workshop manual Warped brake discs (front) Key symptoms - steering wobbles under braking only, getting worse the longer you press the pedal. How to be certain - Take the wheels off and spin the hubs, look for discolouring or the disc moving back and forth relative to the pads. Fix: new discs Steering box drop-arm worn or loose Key symptoms - steering "lurches" into corners, large steering wheel travel for little result. How to be certain - get an assistant to wiggle the steering wheel while you watch the steering drop arm. Any movement at all when lifting the drop arm ball joint up and down is also bad. Fix: You might be able to tghten it up, but if it's worn the splines its a new arm and possibly a new / recon steering box Steering box knackered Key symptoms - steering "lurches" into corners, large steering wheel travel for little result. How to be certain - get an assistant to wiggle the steering wheel while you watch the steering drop arm. Fix: new / recon steering box. If you've got down, here, hit the forums, as you have a new fault we haven't help to fix yet!

[obi] ... just use the force* young Neill... [/obi] *Big hammers theory of Engineering: Hit it If it doesn't shift, get a bigger hammer and repeat from 1. If it breaks, well you needed a new one anyway

Wherever you have them Easy enough to ckeck all round. The warning light should come on as soon as you lift the HB lever. If the HB lever is right at the top of its travel you probably need to adjust the shoes in the handbrake drum (if this is possible? I don't own one) or fit new handbrake shoes - but they don't wear that quickly! The only other thing I can think of is that the cable is knackered.

Granted. I'm just cautious ...

Not sure which you mean, and it depends a little on which engine - See Les's descriptions. The 2.25 diesel and 2.5NAD workshop manual is available for download from here (also linked from the technical archive under "manuals"). Up, I'm pretty sure.

With 1/4" of play I'd be strongly tempted to replace them anyway, and the oil seal (which might have been taking some extra punishment for a while ...)

^^^^ wot he said x2

If its done big mileage and it's that bad, possibly not: because after the cost of the refurb (by time you've sorted the turbo or cracked pistons / rings /big end shells / gaskets / valve stem seals etc.) it'll still be a 2.5TD and you could have bought an ex-Disco 200Tdi ...

Guess that's the end of your probation there, Gary! Welcome, O brave one ...

I'm putting together the hopefully complete and definitive troubleshooting guide to wobbly steering, and I know I've seen a lovely illustrated post (by HFH, IIRC) on checking suspension bushes ... ... but I's bu**ered if I can find it?

Not in the often eye-watering and interactive detail some of the diagnosis threads get into on here . The posts above make a good point: we get repeated questions because the answers aren't easy to find, with solutions buried in obscure posts. Also remember that the WSMs are vehicle or engine specific, so some of our regulars would need about 5 books (and only three of those from Land Rover ) and some of the solutions are "unofficial". OK then, since I've already started, shall I finish off the wobbly steering one and see what the house thinks? Volunteers for some others? Don't be shy