errol209

We have to draw your attention to SimonR's X-lites (other-auxilliary-lights-are-available-and-I-don't-have-any-of-them-but-I've-heard-good-things-honest-guv), but upgrading the headlights to Crystal reflectors (I have no affiliation to Paddocks either) E-marked ones of course, and +50% or even +80% brightness bulbs makes a world of difference.

Yes, and that the resistor for the low speed is fine (hence the 2.3 Ohm difference) This tells us that the LOW fan contact (or the wire to it) is broken, the earth isn't good and or the HIGH contact is dirty. No power to the fan circuit! check the fuse, and the state of the wiring in and around the bulkhead. Good first step already spotted, let us know what you find behind the dash!

Okay, having seperated the plug and er ... plug, you don't need the half that is connected to the bulkhead, just the heater half. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to plug the leads into the meter. Select a low resistance range ("1k ohms" or lower) and place the meter in a secure but visible location. Apply the red lead of the meter to the purple / green wire (which would be the supply from the fusebox if it were connected) and the black lead to one of the other pins /sockets on the connector. Note the reading. If it is very high, try a higher range. Remember the value (if it comes up with a display meaning infinite resistance, try all the other resistance ranges before giving up). Move the black meter lead to the other pin / hole. You should get a different but finite value, which might be very close to the other. If you get two values, both of which are inifnite, the motor has failed as there is no circuit. If you get a value on one and no reading on the other, the fan should still work on high, but the wire wound resistor inside the blower casing (visible as a little panel rivetted onto the top between the fan and heater box) has burnt out. If you get two values, a few fractions of an ohm different, then all is well in blower motor land and your fault lies elsewhere. Make sure the ignition is off for the moment. Turn the heater fan control to full on and the meter to its lowest resistance (ohms) setting again. Approach the car half of the connector. Connect the red meter lead to either of the not purple / green wires, and the black meter lead to any handy large metal object in the engine compartment (I'll leave that one up to the reader ). See if you get a zero reading or not, and repeat for the other not purple / green wire. Reset the heater fan control to half on and repeat the resistance tests. If you get a reading on one wire with it on full and the other when it is on half, this is good. No reading in either position means you have a bad earth behind the dashboard, and a reading on both wires in one position or the other means something is very wrong. Lastly, remove the meter, turn the meter to 20VDC (or nearest value above 15VDC), refit the heater fuse, turn the ignition on and see if you get about 12V (up to 14V but unlikely) between the purple / green wire on the car half and your metal object. If so, then you are getting a live feed. Let us know what readings you get where and we'll do some more diagnosin'

You may have muck in it, or the person who put a 20A fuse in it did so cos "it kept blowing 10A ones" and the motor has now burnt out . Whip the electical connector (3-way) off and measure the resistance of each of the other pins to the purple / green wire with a multimeter. My guess is you'll get open circuit / very high resistance - in which case the motor is gone

The hot / slow / battery drain thing sounds like it is the right starter, but working very very hard to turn the engine over. Is this happening since the first one broke up? If so, did you find all the pieces ? What else could have changed, like had you done any engine work just before? Lastly, what are your thoughts to make the ECU a culprit? The engine should spin OK with it disconnected or attached, it just won't start without the ECU. If you're convinced its the ECU, either get the diagnostics tool on it or swap it for a known good one.

And to make it as effective as possible, mount the capacitor accross the connection as close to the source as possible, and connect the ends accross the device, e.g don't go feed to chassis. This reduces the amount of cable which can act as an aerial. You can fit too many capacitors, but one accross every live line of the ignition, alternator, wiper motors, heater fan motor and radiator fan motor will be fine (remember that two-speed wiper motors have three live lines). A choke in the equipment side of the line can also help, but sourcing high current chokes isn't easy.

I can't see why you'd need to protect it, as they don't get that hot (large surface area) and the rising temperature will cause the current drawn to drop away until it gets to an equilibrium. A timer would irritate me, as it would probably go off too early half the time. If its any help, the rear window heater doesn't have one ...

Have a look at this thread: Linky You only need a pair of normal 30A relays, a switch and a fuse. If you're happy to have the front screen come on with the rear one, you don't even need the switch!

Blanchards list it,RTC3023, but that's the whole assembly (non-aircon). RTC3036 is the kit number for aircon vehicles, but the the book claims a single lock barrel RTC3022 will fit, but I don't believe that at all.

Sorry for the delay Salisbury_110.pdf PM away to Retro, so the rest will probably go up over the weekend now.

Ralph, already got a scan here - I'll got Mr Retro to put it up on his blog? In the mean time, which pages do we need, 423 to where?

Find your local independent lock and safe shop and go in for a chat. The best security devices are the ones that aren't obvious, which is a bit of a problem where locks are concerned!

That'll get you workshop manuals, and the parts books for the 110 and 90 are both linked from the technical archive too.

It helps to read the post properly doesn't it: change "brake" to "hydraulic" line and change the reference to "springs" to "working upside down". I'll admit that changing the clutch slave cylinder might be a three, but my 9 would be getting the broken end of the half shaft out of a back diff without using a trolley jack, ramp or pit

Show off If the brake line has rusted in and you're afraid of the springs it could be an 8. I was trying to think of a "10" job, but I couldn't Good luck!

Depends what a 10 is to you: assuming a 10 is the trickiest job ever, its a 2.

You could miss out the engine / fuel issues by using a sealed electric drive, and the batteries will help keep the traction levels up: but does the world make an "underwater" offroad tyre As to salt water in the chassis, just fill it with crazy foam * Positive pressure gearbox and axle breathers sound fun though! * Yes I know that'd be bouyant, but we aren't in "normal space" here, are we?

Beefy and reed switch don't go together well: have you thought of using the reed switch to trigger a small relay which then triggers / latches the bigger power relay? You could use a Hall Effect switch instead of a reed, solid state so no broken glass bits either. Edit: the 3A ones in Superpants' link aren't big enough to switch a pump directly, but the 1A sort will easily fire the coil on a 12V automotive relay

Click me

Where does it plug in? Or is it gas powered ? Hang on, strike that - "thrown on the ... bingo" - I didn't think bingo would generate enough heat?!?!? I can just see the HA's reaction to stranded motorists in the UK lighting bonfires on the verge

Don't know about a kit or about Freelanders, but is there anything on the vehicle that turns off at this speed anyway, like video screens etc.? You could detect that and trigger a lock command. Given that is has an ECU, it may just be a matter of activating the feature (a friend's Berlingo popemobile was "adjusted" in this way).

It says two channels, so I guess so.

This can also be a symptom of knackered splines on the shaft and / or drive member, leaving a space which acts as a pump.

The hub itself, with the probe on the hub nut or the rim of the stub axle.

Like this? I think he might mean "double" ...