errol209

I have thought about this too, and even got as far as mentioning doing it (starting with "wobbly steering", which was common at the time). I think the Tech Archive is the place, and my suggested list would start with: Wobbly steering Won't start Noises (gearboxes, propshafts, bearings, etc.) Brakes Basic electrics (lights / radio / ignition) Model specific issues (Series / 90/110 / Defender 200TDi / Def 300TDi / Disco / RRC / P38 / Freelander etc.)

To add to the above (though adding a relay is working round the problem rather than fixing it ...) The ends of the wires to the solenoid can get hot and crusty (near the exhaust) so running a multimeter round might help locate the problem. The main starter circuit includes the battery, main battery cable, solenoid and the big earth strap from gearbox to battery, and the solenoid circuit has the ignition switch and one wire (brown/yellow IIRC) to the solenoid coil - all relatively straightforward. The earth strap and connections is always first suspect, as the symptoms only manifest under high current drain (sometimes as the infamous burning handbrake cable fault). If it fires OK 99/100 and then doesn't once, it could be that you have a grotty / dead sector on the commutator of the starter motor.

Don't leave it too long, as it could do what mine did (when I had the 2A) and burn out. Be careful of springs and fiddly parts; isopropol alcohol (IPA) is the normal solvent used, but keep it off the rubber wheel. You can get replacement units and looky-likey things, but the cost means a clean will be worth trying.

Military?

You'll generally need the big one, but some things need the smaller one! I have two

And the last 18" of exhaust missing isn't illegal, provided it doesn't make too much noise? You gassing yourself might have been, but they should have asked anyway - even Kwik-fit ring up to ask!

You shouldn't just multiply safe working loads up: 2.5 tonnes for one, 3.75 tonnes for two, 7.5 for four. However, they will probably have a factor of safety of nearly 2, which means four might collapse at anything between 7.5 and 15 tonnes ... only 3 to 7 times the weight of the car ...

If it is just the LH indicator, then it is only the wires coloured green with a red stripe you need to worry about. The instrument pack is the collection of gauges with the speedo, fuel gauge, warning lights, etc. in it. The electrical path is column switch -> branch to hazard switch, warnign light on dashboard and connector C287 9or 6, its a bit odd). from here it goes to the three indicators and the trailer socket.

Yes.

Surely Mr DVLA will smell a Rattus Norvegicus, because otherwise provided you changed each major lump in a different year, you could go from a 2l S2 88" to a coiled 100 inch 4.2 V8 auto and not have to declare any of it??? What we need on this forum is an SVA guru ...

Just for the sake of completeness, grab of the Workshop Manual, with plunger assembly outlined. Sharpy - you must be a contortionist!

Don't think there will be a problem, what better LR accessory is there than a muddy dog ?

Sounds nasty that, Bowie, hope it clears up ! You can have 1.95MB of images on a post, but that is just one 2-megapixel-digital-camera shot only That or compress the bejeesus out of your pictures!

So, other than making a 230 inch Defender, what else has been acheived? Improved breakover angle? Err. no. Improved ride comfort? Methinks not. Better turning circle? Ha ha ha. Simplified rear transnission? No. DVLA "issues" dealt with? No. Brakes upgraded to deal with extra running weight? Doesn't mention it, so assume no. All in all, no point really. If I were going to do this kind of thing, at least I'd do something worthy of a few ooohs and aaaahs, like an 8x8 Range Rover or something. There are 100s of things like this on the road, and this one misses the essential Land Rover point - its a go-anywhere Meccano kit that often looks better with a few scratches and a bit of mud on it.

Glad you're sorted - its the oddest questions that get the bestest answers on here!

Not a lot! Buy an ISO main plug to bare wire ends from somewhere like Maplin. These normally come with the wires marked up, but if not there are diagrams on t' web. I'd piggy-back the ISO connectors onto the existing wiring by cutting, soldering and heatshrinking. Have you had a search on here? I'd be surprised if someone hadn't already done it. The wiring diagrams for a 200TDi Disco are here (registration required).

Maplin used to, and I bet CPC do, but I can't get on to find out!

Hell, it would have to be a small winch, or set way down low! There's only 120mm from the front face of the chassis to the front of the bumper!

You haven't mentioned valve stem seals However, I've done all the same things and a) it still puffs a bit of white smoke on start up and b) if you stamp on the loud pedal it will "make smoke", but not significantly more so than other 130k diesels I have known and loved . IIRC white smoke is unburnt diesel (late injection), black is burning oil? What state is the air filter in / can it get into?

The parts book is your friend*, though it's often a dead heat between looking it up yourself and asking Mr. Western * Retroanaconda has the 110 book up there too.

571468 is the washer that goes on top of the felt seal ...

I can't remember whether it was meths or white spirit I used, but it worked to get mine off.

Not absolutely sure that's what it means

Ratchet straps round the chassis and axle? Dig a pair of holes?

Yes, cut the bottom brackets. Linky - from Les' article (curses - too slow posting ) From our dear friend the technical archive, about half way down this link, by Les , is what you need. I'm guessing its a Disco radiator originally. Or would you like a real Defender 200TDi rad / intercooler, as I have one for sale cheap As for studs, just drill some holes in the right places?