errol209

Makes you wonder how they check them at some places then, as my battery box cover is locked and I have never supplied the key!

From here you seem to have the heavy duty springs on...

Hmmm, sounds about right Do you have any experience of other Landys, for comparison? Is it worse than these? The unladen ride of all stock defenders, 90/110 etc. (and SIII, SII, etc.) is best described as "firm"!

Subtly off-piste but on-topic, when I joined the railway (at Watford) we were lectured at to always turn our backs on passing trains, partly because of them spewing sewage, but also because the DC third rail trains arc like buggery (750DC at 1500A) at just below eye level. We had a light duty man who'd got caught by it only a few times and he had gone blind in one eye and could only poorly see with the other. His descriptions etched the pain into my mind. BTW, its "actinic keratitis" if you want to show off...

Don't bother, just use a bolt screw with the head cut off. 571536 if you must ...

3.5 hours later, on a Sunday?!?!? Don't bless him, put him forward for Sainthood!

Cor, that's sig. material, right there, that is!

Just one set of reasons why not: Linky ... plus all the others above.

Scan the pieces, then we can all have a go!

Go for a recon box - changing the seals will last a little while, but then it will leak again, and again, and again, and again, and again ... (I don't think you need to arsk how I know this )

The "seals" are also called flock channel, generally the only hard bit is getting the old screws out ... If you have anti-burst door locks (that poke out through the door skin) you can fit new barrels, all keyed alike (for that modern car feel )

Coat!

They're about 7/64" (unknown thread) or 6BA. Not sure which of these are 50 tpi, like yours, but google is your friend ..

I'd go with that. The injection pump has two connections, one of which will let you start it - ignore the other (white Landy wire) The Landy bulkhead connector has two big brown wires - these need to be connected to the same terminal as the battery feed to the starter motor solenoid. White / red on the Landy bulkhead connector goes to the solenoid. Brown / yellow goes the back of the alternator, small connector somewhere (don't know your alternator type). The stud or big terminals on the alternator also need to be connected to the same terminal as the battery feed on the starter motor solenoid. The odd thickish white /brown wire goes the heater plugs. It should then start ...

Guessed it might be I'll get back to you shortly!

Which Isuzu engine?

How'd you do that then? If you've tried running it on water , then that may have caused the head and head gasket some "issues", making it leak coolant ...

No, a fully working 200TDi radiator will happily cool a 200TDi engine in any weather, the heater is a seperate loop off the thermostat housing. The only differences a blocked heater matrix would make are that your heater wouldn't work and the engine would warm up a bit quicker. Overheating of an otherwise un-modified engine* is a massive airlock (see Ralph's response), a blocked radiator, a leaking cooling system or the thermostat staying shut (test by dangling in hot water straight out of a boiling kettle to see if it opens) but in this last case the heater should be hot enough to strip paint! So, could any of the other things be the problem? * Tweaking the fuelling, running a different engine count as modified

You'd also need a bar accross the back at an adult's ear level for the upper mount, OK if you had an internal roll bar or similar (the military jobbie?). Trouble is a truck cab has a window just where you don't want one!

It shouldn't, but back-up for the nervous is to start it with the clutch down and foot on the brake, then put it in a high gear and let the clutch up slowly - it will stall if there is still drive to the wheels.

I was going to say "your heater wants to read a book " but normally it means "non-critical fault, consult the owner's manual for further information".

I'd like mine too, if possible - it's not the money, honest, just that the 90 looks so wrong without one

Stainless good, OEM chrome steel baaaad.

I think you gave it away in the question (and if it's a Lucas alarm and immobiliser, Lord have mercy on your doomed soul, for Joseph Lucas truly is the Prince of Darkness). An aftermarket box won't appear on the LR diagrams ... best you can hope for is that someone might recognise the make or model (might be inside the box or on the bottom), but you probably don't want to advertise this on a public forum ... catch 22!

Google is your friend. My 90 is RAL 5012: So beware, as the paint charts online don't match well.