errol209

In the end, you can only ever check so much without dis-assembling the vehicle completely and applying MPI (magnetic particle inspection) and X-rays to every part. The important things here are to remember the relevant lessons and get you (back) on the road.

Like this one , only three four external components!

Glad to be of service It's too late in the working day for me to work out heat losses, but 15W in a well insulated box will probably be good enough to maintain 37 degrees provided that ambient isn't too low, but will struggle from "cold".

Heating 2kg of watery stuff up by 37 degrees (e.g. requires 2 x 4200 x 37 Joules of energy, or 311 kJ (in an insulated container). Over 30 minutes this is 172 J/s, or 172 Watts. At 12V, thats 15A, or 7.5 amp hours. This is all do-able, you just need a thermostat to turn it off... How about a pet bed heater which you can just leave on (15W is only just over an amp)?

I think it's a possibility ... there was a thread a month or so ago, with similar symptoms.

From this, it gets worse with higher pressure / doing more work, so its either not fully bled (it'd hiss, not groan), the steering system is stiff (bit unlikely) or, as I have found, you need to do the PAS belt up a bit tighter than the book suggests. Left field last thought - are all the joints and bearings in the steering column OK (two bearings and two UJs I think)?

Is it happening just during the turning of the wheels, does it get worse or better at full lock (both ways), is it worse or better when the vehicle is moving slightly, do the above things change with higher revs?

Linky - other simliar looking products are available at a range of qualities and prices, and then Linky two

A now slightly stretched and slack belt?

NOT getting overwhelmed by the "in the know" is the hardest bit on here ... Anyway, welcome along! p.s. don't own a Freelander, but it sounds an a**e for little real benefit

I wouldn't, as it may not seal well, or at all. There again, depends how desperate you are ...

Cor, nuffin' excapes the Western gaze! Not only not in the parts book diagrams, but I'd not seen one either and deceived wisdom suggested new at 300TDi - you learn something every day!

No, but a motor accessory place or scrapyard might. If you put where you are and the specific vehicle you have in your sig. you might find someone close to you who can help!

The first bit means that one or more corners are working perfectly, but the "second try needs a pump" symptom suggests that something at one of the wheel ends is wrong. Check to make sure all the disks are fitted true (if they 'wobble they push the pistons back to far) and the calipers are also good and solid. Are you 100% certain you've bled it all perfectly? A biggish bubble in one line could give you these symptoms too. What did you do to service the 3 calipers? BTW, the pedal should sink if you press the brake and then start the engine, but otherwise you should be able to lock all wheels with the pedal and over an inch from the floor and it should stay there. Last question - the new master cylinder didn't come in a blue box did it?

'Cos it was factory fitted to the 300TDi.

Or go straight to the manufacturer, type A is the kiddie, M10 thread, medium hardness, I'm guessing there's a diameter and height that will suit in there somewhere.

You swines, I've got the maths goin' on now ... The torque required at each wheel to shift a two tonne car up a 45 degree slope assuming only two number 1 metre diameter (39 inch) wheels on the ground (something of a worst case ...) is half a half a half of 2000 x 9.81, or about 2450Nm, which is 245DaNm. For this you'd need a 800cc/rev motor running at 210 bar . Since one rev of our wheel is pi x d, one rev is 3.14 metres. My example motor does 300 rpm flat out, which equals 942m / min or 56 kph (35 mph). In doing so, one motor uses 300 x 800 cc of oil, or 240 l/min. You would need four motors, so 960 l/min at 56kph. Assuming you can find a 210 bar pump that will run at 4000 rpm, it would need to displace 240 cc/rev at full speed (I can't), or lower if you don't mind crawling along ... I suppose you could stack two 120cc pumps or better four 60cc pumps , which would work, and then you wouldn't the flow splitters either. (The LSD comment was that you'd have to allow the wheels to rotate a little independently to mimic a diff, so if you linked the relevant pairs with a flow restricted connection you'd get a limited slip diff effect for free. Closing the link would "lock the diff".) Cor, I feel better now must be the LSD wearing off ...

Aha! That's you bitten then - welcome!

Man, you're going to need some flow (and pressure) to get 60 or 70 horses to a diff at speed, not to say a fairly big oil cooler! On this thread, why bother with the diffs at all? Why not independently motor each wheel with a flow splitter and a flow restricted pressure relief between the pairs (fronts, rears and front to back) to mimic an LSD?

^^^^ that'd my first stop ...

any use? (BFG Mud T/A - ish)

Hmmm, since the rear cross bar sits on top of the brackets, the only way would be to "adjust"* the cross bar or brackets, but you've just had them galved ... Afterthought: can you spin the rear cross bar and bolt it under the brackets the other way up? * using disc cutter and welder to deadly effect

Sorry, I got my looms muddled, Ralph (Western) is right . A diagram will help: Check the points arrowed in red, where the looms go through the chassis and body work. Also, if you have a trailer socket, check that out too.

It might be the photos, but it looks like the winch is too high at the back. I know this , page 11, is for a different winch, but the worm shaft should be horizontal / parallel to the road. Does the front square bar sit perfectly flat on the bumper?

I think the previous posts suggesting a dead short are right. I'd disconnect the rear indicators and the link to the other rear lights at the joints behind the cover in the back right (looking towards the front of the car) of the rear tub, and measure the resistance from each wire to earth (except anything purple or purple and anything, as these are live all the time). If you get a zero reading anywhere, it'll possibly be on the main wiring loom which runs front to back, as it can rub on the chassis. You can follow it from the big plug near the bulkhead, down to the chassis and then out again through a hole near the back.