errol209

That does seem to fit the symptoms. I'm guessing you're still on the original master cylinder? They have numerous rubber seals, all of which age. Could be worth the few quid to overhaul it. Off chance - is the vent on the reservoir cap clear? it could be holder the pressure on. The closest experience I have is mananging to adjust the servo pushrod badly, so that it held the MS partly operatedf even with the pedal at the top. A dozen operations and the brakes were half on and smoking!

Sorry, no, I don't think so. Have you checked to see if the fan is free to turn?

Yes it is, probably possibly!

Hmmmmmm ... LR4x4.com forum merchandising opportunity ...

Have you changed the engine on the end of the loom from petrol to diesel or vice versa? How have you bypassed the immobiliser connections? Jericho's description is spot on for the starter wiring. The starter switch to solenoid line is brown/yellow. The main beam flash (purple wire, fed from fuse 11) and indicators (fed from fuse 10, green wire) don't have much wiring in common. Have you checked the fuses? Do the indicators work when you put the hazards on?

Cor, that's a stumper. Apologies if you've already thought of these (you know your way round a voltmeter, major stride forward ...). With the ignition on, the motor stopped and the alternator harness off, what voltage are you getting on the warning light (brown/black) at the alternator end? should be 12V+, and I think this will be true. Slighty harder, but if you re-connect the harness and start the engine, what is the voltage at teh akt. end brown/black connection now? Logically it ought to be 14V+, but I think you'll get nearly zero. If so, check that the brown/black is connected to the right terminal, as just because the replacement is similar, doesn't mean it's the same. Have you given it some revs too? Meanwhile, I'll wash up and see if I can think of any more.

The heater fan has a three way plug in the engine compartment above the heater box. Unplug it and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, then the problem is the wiring. If not, then it is either the blower motor, which I think you can buy seperately, or (unlikely) the resistor for the slow setting, which is inside the fan casing. Motors are not very easy to repair, but knowing Landrover it might be cheaper!

Any two dissimilar metals in contact with each other in the presence of an electrolyte (like, say, rainwater) will corrode, because you are creating a tiny battery. Rather than add another metal (copper) into the equation, I went for saltwater-resistant marine grease, but you don't want to go greasing nylocs ... Plastic (suggest hard nylon) washers will help a bit on the x-member to tub conections, but they really need to be between all the differing-metal interfaces (between the x-memeber and tub as well as under the bolt head and nut) to do maximum good. I have used A2 all over.

As are your local Engineer's Suppliers, though some of the weirder stuff on a Landy will tax them a bit. Local places have the key advantage that you can take the bent / stripped / stretched / cut one in and they can do the autopsy for you.

A possible reason why it has got worse is you've improved something that was compensating for something else. The members of the Big Bad Wobble Posse that you haven't covered so far include: Swivel pin preload and bearings. Jack the front wheels up (one at a time if you like), grasp the tyre firmly at 12 and 6 and see if you can get a clunk out of it. Clunk / any movement at all = swivel bearings gone. You'll need to take the TREs off to test the preload; there is (I am sure) a guide in the Technical Archive. You said that the PAS box drop arm nut was loose - this could easily have knacked the splines when it was loose. Can you feel any movement? Also check the drag link and track rod ends (they're cheap to replace anyway) while you are checking the preload. Using a bar, is there any give in the front radius arm bushes (Hybrid from Hell has a good post on this). Check the tracking as per the string method in the Technical Archive. With the wheels jacked up and the difflock on, what sort of noises do you get trying to rotate the wheels? Wheel end clonks could be the CV joints (hub off to check - see the Technical Archive. Lastly, drop the car off the jacks (with its wheels attached), find an assistant, pop the bonnet, ply the assistant with Hob Nobs and get them to turn the steering wheel gently left and right. There should be no play (in a perfect world). Any play is wear in either the steering column UJs or the PAS box (I'm assuming the steering wheel isn't loose). Rank outsider is the PAS box bolts are loose. That should keep you quiet for a bit, and that's just the front! If it is the back it will be the A-frame ball joint ... p.s. I missed the bleedin' obvious - wheels not kerbed / bent? Wheel nuts done up to appropriate torque? Wheels balanced? Tyre pressures OK?

Mr Bish - wouldn't that be Ye Workshoppe Manual, book 3, section 51 ? Or is more "idiot" required ? I don't know, first it's yer bowels, then it's yer rear ...

It looks like the weld or metal near it has craked - you're going to have to drain it to do anything, so why not weld it? It's only a tiny ikkle hole ...

1 inch keys (sit down first): Linky - yes that's a 14" Allen key I can find 36" lenghts of stainless 1" AF hex, but I guess you might count as an unusual post code: Eblag linky

I really really really would check the steering column linkage, particularly the universal joints. Also, make sure nothing is catching on the UJ clamp bolt ends. The only other thing that springs to mind is to check nothing is fouling the swivels (gaiters?), TREs, drag and track rods.

Yes. I'd second the comments that followed mine too - cordless is so much less hassle and nearly impossible to fatally electrocute yourself with them! You can get some good kits with drills/grinders/lights in them, all using the same batteries and charger.

No problems, Member (the user name is the big one, Old Hand just means I've stayed interested long enough to clock up 200 posts). In a very minor update to my instructions, for balck read black!

They're optional under the Vehicle Lighting Regulations 1989, Schedule 14: 'nuvver linky

I fear that, if fitted , they have to work, but there is spirited discussion on the MOT forums Linky but there is nothing (I can find) in the MOT tester's book.

£220 seems about the par price for a re-conditioned unit

First, I managed to find this , very helpful. The first linky hasn't loaded in 20 minutes, and the second one is 24V? After refreshing my memory and reading round, I'd suggest over-rating the inverter to 1.2KW(or buying 500W power tools ...) and choosing one with at least a "modified sine wave" (your second linky) or better still "pure sine wave". Oh, and never start the drill / grinder under load ...

Sadly, 800W is only 800W with a resistive load, where current and voltage are in phase (lightbulbs, for instance). Your grinder is an electromagnet with a wheel on - 100% inductive. As the Maplin blurb says, not suitable. You would need an inverter with a much bigger load capacity and the ability to compensate for phase angle / regulation problems , don't know if such a beast exists. Have you considered what would be a very small generator?

Holy Zeus! Engineering What someone needs to do is develop a metal belt and rubber idler system Θα πάρω το παλτό μου* * translated by google don't blame me etc. it's supposed to be Greek right? no i'm not going to explain

Just for my own interest, if you assume the recovering car hits 10mph, weighs 2000kg and the KER rope stretches 200mm (I've never used one: does that seem about right?) in the process, the attachment points at each end experience forces of 200kN (about 20 tonnes in earth money). I can see why there is an element of danger involved!

That certainly isn't a good sign, you have to wonder what else happened that no-one spotted /fixed. That is some pressure building up inside, to blow a core plug, unless someone didn't put them in well. As Iomit says, never seen it happen except on a frozen engine (dawn, Febraury, near Shap Summit, mid 90s).

Ah, double good luck then - special tool No.1, rotary hacksaw AND swearing ...