errol209

No*. I'm sure that although the RR part wouldn't be seen dead on a 110, the 110 part will overcome its predujice *Unless the yokes are differently aligned

What, in the car or the Forum? Be careful with your answer... FWIW, that sounds like two faults. If the car has a VNT turbo (no idea, never driven one) then it could be a part melted VNT vane control pipe (it happened on my Skoda, exactly those symptoms). The other is unlikely (boost diaphragm) because I suspect your engine doesn't have an injector pump, though that gives v. similar problems.

Righty ho, an update. You can get the series boot (part number 214649) to fit a 90/110 track rod end, but there are some important issues. First, the newer model of boot is made of much thinner rubber than the Series part (what a surprise) so it's a fight and a half. The second is that to hold it on once you have wrestled it in to place, it is best to use the metal rings that attach the 90/110 item. A cable tie of the right length is too thick, but I guess a piece of wire neatly twisted tight might do the job. All in all, having fitted two in an hour (with the usual split time of 50 mins for the first, 10 for the second) I wouldn't bother again!

The diff-lock switch, it turns the diff lock light on when the lock has engaged.

Seen from the back:

Not if the brakes still work to spec.

Probably on one long edge, towards a corner. Whip all the cabin trim and dash off and you should find a nice fat juicy wire (30 amp) and an equally chunky earth lead somewhere. Most heated screens use a voltage sensitive relay to turn it off when the battery volts get low, so this would be a good find (look for a non-black (they're often yellow) relay with VSR on it).

... it doesn't cover split charging. Try searching the post titles for "split charge", or check out the X-eng site.

Yep, sounds (geddit) like the servo. It could just be age. Why it isn't affecting brake performance I don't know. Some ways to tell what's going on: Pop the bonnet and look for an inch diameter pipe coming out of the vacuum pump on the engine and going to a plastic connector (non-return valve) on the brake servo. Whip it off and see if it's split anywhere. Then get the non-return valve off (you should get a huge inrush of air) and try blowing and sucking through it. If it passes air both ways it's duff. While the pipe is off, start the engine and stick your thumb over the end. Noise still there? then its the pipe. The vacuum line is used for other things like the aircon, if you have it, so you'll need to check all that pipework. The fact that it goes away on braking suggests the servo air valve is letting air through all the time, hard to eliminate, but there is a filter and valve overhaul kit for most servos. Assuming you didn't have the master cylinder off (no need for a pad change) and everything else is OK, then the only other thing it could be is a small hole in the diaphragm inside the servo unit. This is user-serviceable if you can find the parts (the overhaul kit doesn't include the diaphragm) but not physically easy to do.

Wot Mr NDFI said, and I meant to describe that it was an add-on to, not a replacement for, the filter.

It was optional on the 90/110, so I'd guess so. It only really catches the big cr*p anyway, hence the name.

The only other things will be minor ones like the speedo cable and the bulhead stay bars (if fittid). The bulkhead to chassis bolts will also be an arse, so have plenty of Swearium TM grease handy. Methinks Mr. Barton is joking somewhat: any fule kno that a bulkhead will not fit in a barf, you need a hot tub (good swirly action for paint stripper too). The bits of metal sound like a shim: which model / 'box? Gear selection may be affected, but an appropriate adult will know for sure.

It looks like its coming from somewhere above the gearbox mount, which narrows it down to the upper end of the gearbox gearbox / gearbox extension / TB gasket, the assorted difflock / low range / gear selector orifices, or the TB rear cover. What is the highest point you can find the oil? (edit: add gearbox oil filler to the list)

Thanks Bush65, you've brought my knowledge on 200%! While we're talking winch hydraulics, I am right in assuming for a hydraulicly powered worm-drive winch (like a 525 or Landrover mark II) the only protection I need is PRV acting to limit the motor torque?

Elastic Trickery bit: On the grounds that the EFI V8 was never standard (or even contemporary?) with the 2.5TD pre-Defenders, it would be unlikely to be a straightforward plug in job. There is a contemporary carbed V8 engine harness, but I guess EFIs have an ECU, so you'll definitely need the harness and ECU, 'leccy fuel pump, etc. which will need linking to all sorts of the 110's dashboard circuits. If you're brave enough to do that, read the megasquirt thread(s) first, as at least there are simple instructions for that!

New con rods all round; and since hydraulic lock in an engine can bend the most unlikely things, you may need new pistons and gudgeon pins to replace the ones you can't get apart. It is also possible that you have bent the crankshaft, which might explain 2 and 3 sitting high if there isn't a middle bearing. In summary, take the bottom to bits! For the worst that can happen, see Post #16 in this thread

If you live near industry or the esa, this can agravate bi-metallic corrosion which is what is going on. Try a very thin smear of vaseline on the contacts before assembly, or even a tiny squiz of WD40.

After a friend's experience (before I met him) with a V8 converted Series 2 (and the engine was the least rotten part) I'd be extra x 1010 careful of (as in look extra hard at) anything that isn't original. Many conversions and mods are well carried out, but some beggar belief. Echoing the comments above, find someone nearby who can help you look at the steel parts find the rusty bits appraise the vehicle appropriately.

I'm pretty sure of the following: A dual overcentre is two single overcentre valves in one body. Since you are controlling a winch, which is reversible, you need the dual, one on each winch pressure line (as close to the winch as possible). This means the winch only moves when you tell it to, in either direction. Pretty handy link here.

Err. pass, I just noticed in my "up to 200tdi vintage" defender parts book. Was it optional / model specific then?

... gearbox oil cooler circuit ...

It would need to be chunky diode, but it would work. UK59P from Maplin would do, put the silver band nearest to the fuel solenoid in the circuit.

About three or four times in the last month or so, I think, but this is the first time we've managed to work the value of it in ohms! Ah, the search facility - some patience required there, but no worse than Goggle. Happy to help (that's why some of us are here, that and trying to beat Mr Western to a reply now and again ). You're a cyber-member of one of the biggest un-official rescue orgnisations in the world!

You could always replace the box, say with an R380, then stick a suitable transfer box to the back, and a nice MS V8 on the front, in an LR chassis .. portals ... Garcon! Mon mac por favor!

The intercooler bit will take 2 hours - its the other major distractions that you find in the process (hoses, rubber mounts, rusty nuts, dodgy wiring, etc.) that will take the time!