errol209

Its what mine does, so we're in it together! You want either a good old fashioned electro mechanical buzzer (good luck) or one of these (W005 will do). Connect the two legs with "~" on them accross the indicator lamp, the red wire on the buzzer to "+" and the balck wire to "-". It'll work both ways then.

From your sig, you might be able to get away with the top corner repair pieces - much much cheaper, but it depends how bad the rot is (much of which you won't see until you go rooting with a rooty pointy thing). It doesn't matter how bad the replacement top corner jobbies are really, but I have heard about bad (dimensionally) pillar sections. A bulkhead repair and welding adult will be along shortly, I'm sure... Have you had a search for bulkhead repair? Lastly, good luck! (done the top corners, horrified at the amount of rust)

"A-post" is normally reserved for the bit above the waist (bottoms of the windows), but we now know you mean the outer edge of the bulkhead (for this is what you describe!) Like this? (I only use the link as an example, Googling for this sort of thing will find you loads of suppliers. There are also top corner plates if the rot is very bad. I'm sure you'll get many comments on "quality parts" now ...

Just for reference, from the WSM: Alloy wheels - 130 Nm (96 lbf/ft) Steel wheels - 100 Nm (80 lbf/ft) Heavy Duty wheels (Wolf) - 170 Nm (125 lbf/ft) The quoted peak torque for the wrench is 170Nm!

Not according to my wiring diagram, doubly weird. I might see if I still have one (previous-owner-itis) and do a trial relay-ectomy.

On a Defender? Do you mean the edge of the windscreen, or somewhere else? A photo of the afflicted part would help the diagnosis

Good start ^^^ The indicators are green/white on the right and green/red on the left. The flasher unit wires are light green (power), light green/brown (to the column switch) and light green/purple (to the dash trailer light). Fuse 10 (indicators) and fuse 12 (hazards) would have to go for them to pack up totally. You did re-connect all the earths (black) didn't you?

Firstly, have you cleaned up all the bullet connector joints? They corrode quite badly, and its a good excercise in locating the wires. All the headlamp wiring (all four circuits) is blue and either pink, black orange or slate trace. These all come out behind the headlamps, one pair each side. Each of these needs a relay (four relays total) and each relay needs 60 / 12 = 5A of supply, so one 18A cable (use brown to stay with Landrover's colour scheme) each side will be plenty. The relays should be standard 30A items: With the brown feed from the battery (via a 10A fuse please) going to 30, 87 to the headlamp, 86 connected to the original line from the dashboard and 85 connected to earth. Rather than going to the alternator (which means that these relays are battery live ALL THE TIME, = big fat sparks) I'd either fit a battery isolator or arrange them to feed via a fifth relay triggered by the ignition, which has the advantage that you can't accidentally leave the headlights on and the ign. off. All in all, I think is a lot of arsing about when a bit of cleaning up will do quite a lot of good.

Weird, isn't it? The wiring diagram shows it for all 90/110 vehicles (and probably all pre-ecu machines), and if there isn't an electric fuel pump then the relay does nothing at all. The pump feed appears as white/purple on the same connector as the fuel tank sender, seat belt switch, etc., so I guess the pump would have been in the tank or close to it. Why the relay isn't optional I have no idea.

Sure you've got them the right way round? the adjusters need to be top and side, or getting the beam alignment right will be a nightmare.

I'm sorry, but Western is unavailable at the moment. Rear end door (safari door) card MWC1744 up to 1988MY (VIN EA) MWC1744LCS from 1988MY to 1989MY MXC1992LCS from 1989MY to VIN JA9 BTR3793LCS from VIN JA to KA9 BTR7959LCS from KA9 But a bit of upholstered handboard does nicely: as does some lovely cheguerplate

I can identify with the "can't find unstained clothing" one ...

One of the industry standard indestructible connectors for small signal / switching use in theatre and similar are the EDAC type ( Info ) but they might be a bit big. The next choice is the D-type connector ( Info ) but they aren't very robust. You could use the MIL spec circliar ( Info ) but unless you're planning a small war don't bother. Hope some of this helps

If you have a good hard pedal with normal travel and it stops eventually, a good vaccuum and all the mechanicals are good then it can only be the servo. Mine didn't do the sinking-when-you-start thing, so I took the servo off, re-connected the vaccuum line and started up - you'd expect the servo to "happen" when you push the yoke end (like pressing the pedal) but nothing. My conclusion is that the valves have got bunged up, so the servo isn't allowing atmosphere in. This must have been a gradual process, as the brakes have never been what you might call "sharp". New servo on order ...

Trust the Technical Archive: Watch with Les

I wouldn't go far, as it'll probably work loose quite quickly, but otherwise: Landys were never pretty anyway

No s**t Sherlock . No torque figure - bet it's rubbish!

Yes, sorry . I was in the middle of looking up oil leak part numbers ...

The drag link is a possibility, but only if (and remembering I'm a 90 owner and know little of these new-fangled "Discovery" things of which you speak) the damper is on the drag link itself. Photos of all that lot? Goggle, my son, Goggle! You could also take a canter through the technical archive and the relevant parts pages at LRParts

The skin wraps around the frame at the edge, carefully, a bit at a time using LR tool no.1 (small) and a block of wood.

Very nice, but then they spoil it for us sad-parts-book-owning types by saying "series 2 Defender"!

Seems to be at the introduction of the 300Tdi?

0.127 to 0.254 mm on the front and zero on the back (actually none specified, but it might as well be zero) - a bit less than 3mm

I can do this one, please sir, please! Answer, no, it shouldn't move in and out. LR sell some fabulously expensive shims to get rid of the movement. When you say a centimetre "wide", you don't mean "thick" do you? 'cos 1 cm would be a new record: I found one corner with 3 mm on it, but it needed a new halfshaft and driving flange as it was passing oil like a middle eastern pipeline.

Every metal has an elastic zone (where it bends and springs back), a plastic zone (where it bends and stays bent) and a yield point (where it breaks fatally while being bent). The ironmongery of the transmission will get "wound up" like a clock spring, until the force required to wind it further (generally) exceeds the grip of the tyres first, rather than pushing the halfshafts into the plastic zone. Series machines in 4wd (no centre diff) will "skip" now and again (well, mine did) to try and sort the wind up out.