errol209

However, the user is advised to verify the correct orientation of the vehicle before proceeding ...

Expired, but still correct. The link is to a low risk .pdf. All it does it recommend joining the eyes of recovery straps by putting the standing part through the eye of the other strap (both sides) and then wedging something in the overlap to allow you to undo it.

Black is burning oil, white is normally unburnt diesel. The misfire (or "not-fire" if you like) will cause this, but what is causing the not-fire is the question. Low compression (rings, head gasket, valves, head), poor timing (timing belt, poor timing belt fitting) and sticking injector(s) would all be culprits, as would a dead glow plug or two. Small amounts of water in the filter / sedimentor won't cause this, and is easily drained off anyway (it's designed to cope). Large amounts of water will restrict the fuel flow (throttling the revs) but you will also be at risk of rusting the injector pump and getting water in the cylinders. Does it eventually recover and run properly? Or is it a bag of spanners forever?

Yes, I think so. Yes. However, the key question will be, given the seat's height above the floor: Is it comfortable? No.

Er, generally "alright" and almost always better than "we know who". The 0.25" isn't the extra length to compensate for driver and fuel, is it?

I'd suspect anything that came off to do the clutch, like propshaft UJs and flange bolts. Before I read the text I also wondered about the tyres dragging on the radius arms, but that won't be caused by a clutch change

A relay in the headlamp circuit would fix the issue forever - about £10 to do. A very strange little corner for Land Rover to cut, IMHO.

Large fuses often have 10s overload ratings of over double the continuous rating ... The safest route is to match things by continuous ratings, I think.

Fair point!

IIRC its a bit of an arse, but yes.

I'd like to second that for ALL advisories. MOT testers get a nice relaxed opportunity to have a thorough, structured crawl round you vehicle: how often (seriously) do you do that, with a critical eye? I've smarted at some issues raised (slightly delaminated number plate? ), but IMHO the fails and advisories are reasonable, verging on helpful. As previous posters have said, what price your life?

Yep, sure does

These filler caps have a vent, a ball held down by a spring, built into them. Sounds like yours has jammed shut. They aren't easily fixed, but you could try giving it a soak in petrol followed by a very good shake. I don't like the drilled hole idea much though ...

The pedal box will fit, but the hole in the bulkhead for the pedal lever will need lengthening, and the wing top will probably need trimming back a bit to fit the servo in.

It worked well on my old 109 S2a.

Ta Mr. Western, I'll give it another go when my knuckles have healed up a bit

All the things that are longer / different on a 110! Roof Sides Roof seals Rear tub Rear propshaft Wiring loom Brake line Rear springs (but possibly not) Also, shouldn't the front steering arms be a different angle to get the Ackerman bit to work properly, or did this never bother LR? Anyway, why not find a donor 110 and fit the 110 body and 90 engine (or any engine) to the new chassis, then (I think) you'd keep the 110's identity?

They're not as bad as mine were when they failed the MOT, but have you checked all of them? I'm a little surprised at the tester's comments, as good brakes are kind of important. For the price, I'd say yes, and you can use it as excuse to do the master and slave cylinder seals and replace the brake fluid while you're there. You'll find not a little discussion on what to replace them with, but copper ain't so bad (Automec kits are easy) - cue shouts of "Cupro-nickel"

Right. Having found some venerable advice on this very forum concerning removal of the aforementioned speedo pinion 'ousing, I approached the vehicle from an easterly direction with a wire brush, and proceeded to give it a proper going over. Using an approved chokehold, I apprehended and removed the speedo cable retainer and set about prising the pinion housing from the parent lump of transfer box with extreme prejudice, a sharpish screwdriver and LR special tool no.1, as per the venerable advice. This succeeded in chipping off part of the pinion 'ousing and nearly causing me to completely lose my temper. However, I kept my cool and crept up on the blighter from above armed with an old wood working chisel and a rubber mallet. After a brief altercation, I now have a scrap chisel and am running out of sticky-out bits to work with. I suspect should stop before I break something (or I nadger the Landy), but as I am certain I have the wrong colour cog, does the house have any alternative methods of removing the s****ng f**k**g b**tar* thing I could try? (yes, taking the handbrake drum off and going at it from behind had occured to me, but I'm not convinced I'll do any better). Yours in anticpation, Errol209

It detects the actuating lever inside the transfer box, so it will stay lit if the locking dog is engaged. Wind-up will stop the dog disengaging, so the light stays on. With the lever in the not-locked position, the light will go out when the dog releases, when the wind-up is sorted.

Right, we know it's a diesel, but which one? 2.5NA, 2.5TD, 200TDI, 300TDI, TD5, 2.4, or other?

Mr Western, did you mean "... does not have ..."?

To de-focus them you need to move the filament away from the "sweet spot" that produces a parallel beam. Pulling the bulb backwards a little relative to the reflector by inserting a metal washer (for heat and elastick trickery reasons) between them. By way of example: if you can get to the inside of the glass, a quick going over with coarse aluminium oxide paper will diffuse the beam nicely, but you can't undo this mod

I'm bewildered too - all the barrels I've changed (on a 2a fitted with s3 anti-burst locks and a 1988 defender all look like your "wrong" examples, and so do all the pictures on LR series. Have you got a photie of the locks themselves? I'm wondering whether they are original or not. The "right" type: Pickie linky

Just to finish this thread off, I fitted a new servo yesterday and its all sorted. Sorry for the delay in posting, but the smacking of the bridge of my nose into the steering wheel during post-install testing left me quite dazed