pat_pending

As mentioned it's a factory rebuilt engine. The part no' RTC2707/R and the logo on the parts label date it to the early 80s. That part no' doesn't appear in any of my Land Rover parts books, that suggests a Range Rover engine. Early 80s would be a 3.5 probably low comp, 8.13-1 I think. May tie in with the 8G suffix on the serial no'. Have you got a bigger picture of the rest of the lump?

deleted double post!

Just got back. Interesting event, more of a gathering than a show I thought. Some superb vehicles and kit, I'm now convinced I need a camping trailer.

Tdi timing chest is deeper as it holds a belt as opposed to a chain. The Tdi crank pulley is in two parts, the pulley/s being bolted to a mass damper so is probably twice as long as a 2 1/4 pulley. So, the end of the pulley on a Tdi is further forward.

I'd have thought you'd see any misalignment when it was running, if it looks ok then maybe the new tensioner, without washer, has fixed it. Difficult to say what the original problem with the previous belt was though.

I may be missing something, but if you spaced the tensioner away from the face of the timing chest it would cause the belt to run off the front of the other gears and rub against the front cover. Which is exactly the problem you seem to have.

I'm sure that warning light panel was used in some Leyland Daf trucks, 4 to 7.5 ton jobs.

This is of course, the correct answer.

To get the heat where it's needed you'll need to get the pulley section off the damper so it looks like this Then you can concentrate the heat on the front of the damper boss, here If it's on with Loctite it will smoke when the bond breaks, have the puller on and keep tightening.

If it's stuck on with Loctite or similar you'll be wasting your time with penetrating fluids. Heat is what it needs, and plenty of it!

See my earlier post.

Thin it with an angle grinder and split it with a good chisel.

What the kit comes with and what's fitted aren't always the same thing.

Have you got two non return valves fitted? You need one before each servo.

How does the £890 break down? nearly £150 of that will be vat. If they gave you or they fitted parts you asked for, pay for them. If they did work there is no dispute over, the MOT for instance, pay for it. Once you have a figure for the disputed work you can negotiate a resolution, don't mix up your legal redress as a dissatisfied customer with whatever you or anyone on here feels they did wrong on a technical basis. Agree what they are going to do to correct the problem first, and then offer any help or advice to achieve that end.

I worked for a firm that fitted the FD series engines into Land Rovers in the late 80s. Fantastic engine, pulls like a train, however it's extremely heavy and you'll feel that in the handling. We had to fit heavy duty front springs and bump stop spacers to limit upward axle travel, this affects off road ability. Many of the parts for fitting the engine, hoses, brackets etc were specially (poorly) made and are now probably unobtainable. Engine parts themselves were very expensive, IIRC the engines were originally industrial units that were converted for automotive application. I remember them always being difficult to prime and start for no apparent reason after fuel filter changes. The importers and fitting kit providers at the time were SMC of Bristol and are probably long since gone. I'd say the engine adds no value to the pictured vehicle, which is probably worth scrap value, a few hundred £ at most. Anything is salvageable, but at what cost? I see a money pit.

I have the same, works very well.

The dampers will have no effect on ride height. So, you could either remove the extra weight or try swapping the springs side to side. The fronts are handed but there's not much in it, you want to see if the lean follows the spring. How bad is it? Did it lean before you put the hydraulic tank in?

That's not caused by a blocked breather! Reading your post I understand that... You fitted an axle, all was well and then both rear wheel bearings failed along with the seals. You fitted new bearings and seals to both sides, all was well, and now these have failed as well. Is that correct? What exactly "failed" with the bearings?

Three pages about a tv programme! No Land Rover or technical content? I haven't owned or watched a television in years, but I seem to remember that you can change the channel or turn them off if you don't like it. I would, however, pay money to see Evans beaten to death with Clarksons severed head.

I think the brass plug has a shoulder to seal against whilst the steel plug is a taper thread.

I doubt there's much in it for most peoples use regarding durability. IMO it's the Railco bush. Railco top bush provides a greater degree of dampening against steering kick back, but taper bearings top and bottom give a smoother more precise feel. For ease of replacement, same size top/bottom tapers probably wins. I'd keep whatever the vehicle came with.

Have you actually established it's the ignition switch that's at fault? Because if you haven't you may be wasting your time fitting a button, which IMO is a bodge anyway. Diagnose the fault properly and then repair it with decent quality parts.

Looks like some sort of alloy, so not magnetic. Best keep looking.

Probably because they weren't the ones he wanted to hear.