pete3000

my only tip is to try and get the pump either inside or well away from salt/spray, otherwise the terminals can rot out and the pump stops working. Ask me how i know.

Just a thought Cluaran, have you tried a decent amount of pre-heat from the plumbers torch right before migging on full power?, this might allow more sticking of the weld if that makes sense. Use a heat shield or plate with a hole in to avoid burning any delicate bits as much as you can. I used a rothenberger mapp torch to great effect when fabbing some trailer lower shock plates this year. The weld went on like butter, albeit it was downwards so appreciate the difficulty in welding upside down. Pete

Have you done anything regards the bulkhead footwell to chassis brackets? or reusing the old ones. I got a set of these, primered and painted black. https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hot-dipped-galvanised-bulkhead-to-chassis-brackets-per-pair-land-rover-defender/ With both options comes with the nuts/bolts and the nut plate. Also one of these may be useful to stop the rot between the ally/Steel https://yrmit.co.uk/product/body-to-chassis-rubber-gasket-kit-lr-defender-90-pre-td5-2/ Pete

second post he says "the wilds of the North West Highlands" 😮

This is the one i have in the LR, it does DC current and has clamp and multimeter probes, also it backlit for easy read. https://www.amazon.co.uk/UNI-T-Current-Capacitance-Resistance-Measurement/dp/B07CNGJXFJ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=WBXKLZ8PN00K&dchild=1&keywords=uni-t+clamp+meter&qid=1609234467&sprefix=uni-t+clamp%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFXODdUSzVMVVNJVE8mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2NzA5ODMzRzJSUjlTQTBSSjlUJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MTI0OTExNThUM0VNVjIzSDJDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== https://www.amazon.co.uk/UT210E-Current-Meters-Capacitance-Tester/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-rsf-lq2a1_0?crid=1AIEMUNVWC4GC&cv_ct_cx=ut210e&dchild=1&keywords=ut210e&pd_rd_i=B00O1Q2HOQ&pd_rd_r=7a32da8c-dcb2-472c-9ad4-f7e85cd021a0&pd_rd_w=pGRhh&pd_rd_wg=v0mhP&pf_rd_p=dba4d345-033c-4a5f-bc00-6ee63ecee580&pf_rd_r=TKZD56C29Z4E3H72C3KY&psc=1&qid=1609234612&sprefix=ut210%2Caps%2C188&sr=1-1-569cd1f4-72a6-4f1d-b3c5-cf7f1ae39fbb Pete

have you tried turning the ends of the tube round?, some of the LED tubes only like being fed at one end. I have converted 4 or 5 battens and rewired the mains just to feed the end cap.i.e bypassing the starter and balast/caps. Never had any issues expect ordering the wrong length. Pete

Could be a combination of things, given the intermittent nature though i'd probably start with a visual in the fuseboxes. Most of the items you describe as working above are on the permanent live circuits (brown or purple), i.e clock, hazards, interior lights (horn?) some of the radio? Not sure how the immobiliser works on the td5 and how tolerant it is of pulling fuses or low volts so no advice here.... however....... Do any of the fuses look melted or as if they are corroded? It sounds as if anything drawing any current causes the circuits to drop in voltage. You could elimate a bad earth by clipping a jump lead from negative battery terminal to the alternator mounting bolt or engine lifting eye. After that you need to get a multimeter and start measuing for differences in voltage drops when things are trying to draw current vs not.

A picture may help, but i'd probably end up drilling out gradually to size of bolt with some cobalt drills then hopefully being able to collapse the thread remains into the hole created by winding the tang in on itself and tapping? if that fails you may be left with the option of helicoiling. Depends a lot on the application. If it's load bearing/alignment safety critical a new bracket or component may be the only way forward.

also https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/plugs-connectors?p=2

some of the parts are shared, e.g the wiper motor park switch is the same or similar to the classic mini. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wiper-Motor-Wiring-Loom-Plug-Park-Repair-Connection-Classic-Mini-GXE7708P-520161/283830020649?epid=1528397341&hash=item4215966a29:g:XLAAAOSwNkJaOvPQ or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-LWH102-Wiper-Motor-Park-Switch-Plug-Repair-kit-for-Land-Rover-Mini-Triumph/303744066861?epid=20040972837&hash=item46b88ea52d:g:A-UAAOSwG5xfoWWC Pete

Yes I'd swap to the PRC8463, stick a meter across it before fitting to confirm readings above, your gauge should be ok as the PRC7313, is the newer number of my PRC3107. Good luck. Pete

Sounds about right, the early military defenders didn't have the steering lock on the ignition key assembly. Otherwise you'd find it difficult to tell if you had left the steering lock on or if the non-power steering effort was just "normal". Pete

It's not too bad a job, if we are talking about the whole upper column assembly (tube). Most of it can be stripped down inside the cab. Don't forget you'll need 2 new shear bolts for the ignition barrel/lock once you've managed to get the old ones out. From memory the column has to be drawn into the engine bay and the cutout in the bulkhead is oval on 1 side to allow the bracket which fixes the colum to the upper dash to be drawn through. First up all the binnacle and steering surround needs to come off, then the steering wheel and switches unscrewed. Then its a case of unbolting the steering colum and brackets, you may need to move the brake/and/or clutch pedal boxes to access the bolts though. See this post for more info, as there is more than one approach if just doing the bearings. Pete

Right, my sender is PRC8463, connections as follows Stud/bolt = earth/0v to chassis earth via short black wire, pushed on via bullet style female. White plastic terminal also stamped as T on sender face = gauge reading back to gauge PRC3107 terminal 1 Red plastic terminal also stamped as W on sender face (warning?) clipped ohm meter to stud, and white. Measured full position top of travel, 7-10 ohms, mid way ish 150 ohms and empty 350 ohms (linear scale?) with clip still on stud measured resistance to red W, open circuit till 25mm from end of dip tube then 0.1 ohms for low fuel light. PRC3107 Gauge wiring, terminal 1 from sender white T terminal 2 green from 12v ign switched feed earth/ov black from gauge earths

STC1492 sender doesn't come back as anything for me, PRC8463 is the diesel part number?. The resistances measured don't sound right, have you got the ohms range on 200 ohms or e.g 20Mohms. I've just pulled my 300tdi setup out so i'll go and measure the old sender vs gauge positions.

I'd taken both my pdwa and the prv dip/dive valve out around 6 years ago, kept them just in case but never re-admitted them. As Western says the fluid loss switch is on the reservoir float cap on the 300tdi. Pete

I've been struggling with poor brakes on my 1986 110 for years, even after changing the drum rear axle to discs and going vented at the front, just about every part was renewed (one part at a time) and replumbed. The efficiency on the tapley meter at the Annual MOT "was just meets minimum effort". This was with standing on the pedal to get any braking effort. Well everything went back in again recently when the chassis was swapped. The 1986 style (new but 2 times changed) brake master cylinder and pedalbox was removed and looked decidely worse for wear. So I bought a salvage 300tdi servo/ pedal housing and reservoir. Fitted all back up with a new 300tdi 90/110 master cylinder. First thing i noticed about this was the front circuit has 2 fittings (1 for each caliper), rear has 1 port as before. But the diameter of the piston housing is much smaller than the 110 2.5NA disc/drum master cylinder. After bleeding the brakes today, I can actually feel the brakes working without standing on the pedal. I even managed to lock the wheels on the drive. 🙂 Thinking about this i should have spotted a while ago that the laws of fluid transfer mean a smaller piston area can exert much more force than a larger piston albeit at a lower fluid volume. Anyway problem solved, if anyone else is having similar issues after converting to discs it could be a mismatched master cylinder? Pete

Dayco belts, Bearmach for the tensioner/roller/gear. Corteco oil seals.

Well erm no, it certainly isn't on my 110. Assuming we are talking about the rear plastic 12? gallon tank on the 90 td5, you may get away with taking the front two bolts on the guard out and slackening the rear crossmember bolts to lower the guard, but it may be necessary to remove the guard and start again.

Tell me to shut up if you've spotted the bolt through the drop arm bracket is too long(stack of washers)/facing the wrong way, i can go and look what i used if it's useful, Think from memory it the same imperial bolt/nyloc nut as the a-frame balljoint bracket. Pete

https://www.nationalluna.com/product/12v-auxiliary-battery-box Something you could knock up for less than the £400 price. ?

YRM do them for 25 notes per side +vat. I'd not bother with the 25mm screws though they are too long. They should be no14 x 19mm and m6 form G washers. Pete

I'd echo what western says, lay the brake lines in to the rear especially, also fuel lines (110 more so) and breathers. The one big and heavy lump which is easiest done without the engine in is the power steering box drop arm and bolts, This should also allow you to lay the power steering pipes along the front of the chassis rail inner face. If you havent already fit the bumpstops and the fuel tank and sender. Pete

I drilled my new galv chassis as the list of clips was growing, the one area i did manage to avoid was the front by the bumper by running the brake line to the bulkhead and over the top by the heater. clips I fitted were brake pipe singles, and doubles 6mm hole, doubles along the o/s chassis rail to hole brake line and breather from rear axle. Twin diesel clips 7mm hole? along top of o/s rail to sedimentor. 2x twin battery pipe clips on n/s rail in front of seatbox. (only had to drill 1x hole as 1 already in front lhs outrigger.

There is no brown and green on Western's diagram, only at the ecu delay area D113 which drops to earth when motor is parked? or unparked? solid green should have 12v on when ign is on (for wipers to work), you can buzz the rest along the lines of the following. apply a fused 12v to green only, then get a multimeter and measure 12v on Light Green Blue when wash is pressed 12v on RLG on speed 1 12v on ULG on fast speed other 2 are on intermittent setting areaof switch. Pete