secondjeremy

Chamferring usually helps - but some pattern cylinders have a very strong internal spring which means that the shoe is pushed hard against the drum - causing it to pick up when reversing. I had trouble fitting the drum on one vehicle and the replacement cylinder had a noticeably stronger spring than the (sound) cylinder I'd removed - so I carefully dismantled the cylinder and fitted the spring from the old one - no problems.

Sender must be paired with the gauge - so if you're fitting a 200tdi to a series - you use the series sender (assuming it fits) unless you're using a gauge unit from a 200Tdi installation.

If its blowing oil out and the breather is clear then the crankcase is probably pressurising - generally due to bore wear and/or broken rings. Why did you replace the valve stem seals? Careful sealing can disguise things for a (long) while. Its possible that the head gasket is letting go.

Assuming it goes well and has an MOT I'd say that some people would be asking rather more than that for it. Its a non-standard vehicle in that it has a 2.5 NA engine fitted. It should have a 3 bearing diesel (if it was made as diesel). Conversion seems to have been done neatly. Have you driven one on the road? They're a bit different to a 200TDi 90.

The overdrive bolt seems to be turned from soft hexagonal bar - and is surprisingly prone to rusting. I wondered about turning a groove or two in it and fitting an 'O' ring to prevent rattle and also if it were at the gearbox end to reduce water ingress.

Petrol or diesel? Start with earths - you could try a jump lead between the battery earth and the engine. Otherwise find the earths and check/clean them. Diesels have a few external connections on the starter which can become loose/corroded - worth checking. Check all heavy connections. Starter brused can stick - sharp tap with a hammer can free them temporarily. Has been known for the starter fixing into the flywheel to corrode - preventing good earthing. All terminals can suffer from corrosion - worth checking for warmth after operating the starter. If its warm or hot - dismantle and clean. You can put a voltmeter from battery earth to engine - and operate starter. Anything more than about 0.5 volt is excessive - some would say 0.25 volt. DON'T use an amps setting - it may overload the meter of there's a problem.

There should be a rather flimsy looking bright stainless steel rail with holes in it for the catches to engage with fixes to the inside of the assembly (well there is on truck cab windows which are the same thing) You have to get the catches at the right ends as well as the correct combination of inside and outside glass for it all to fit. Small gap one end, failure to catch at the other end means that the wrong glass is on the outside . . .

Why not simply replace the insides of the relay leaving the thing in the chassis? Be careful with the very strong spring nside - read the workshop manual.

There are at least 2 sizes of strange - shaped metal clamps - the ones for long wheel base rims have longer legs on one side so they sit flat. Many after-market wheels have diffrent offsets to standard wheels - and so the centre may be further from the rim when its lying flat. The good news is that the wheel clamp dish is tapped with a BSF thread - so the standard-sized bolts are very expensive - and longer ones are probably unobtainable. Have a look at late military fixings which were rather different and may work. Alternatively a rear door wheel mount might work.

http://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-accessories/land-rover-series-2-and-3/paint.html Its synthetic paint - brushes just like household paint and is soluble in white spirit.

The relay is very sensitive to oil - it can go very stiff if its dry. Its oiled through the bolts securing the top cover on - take out 2 - dribble oil in through one - can take ages. Bottom seal can be replaced without taking it out. Steering arms to the top and bottom of the relay are often loose. Try tightening them. If you're taking the arms off - take the bolts out - they fit in grooves in the relay shaft. Check the swivels aren't tight. Can sieze or even be assembled too tight. Whole lot can fail - but its important to find what is wrong as you can end up doing loads of work and speending loads of money and its no better. I bought a LWB (with new MOT) and was so frightened I abandoned it and drove it to my workshop at 6am the next day when no one was around. Ended up with it steering really nicely at all speeds and being surprisingly light - and it cost nothing! except some oil and grease.

They're not stretch bolts - so can be re-used over and over again. Worth checking the threads in the block are clean right the way down - with no build up of grease and muck in the bottom - and that the bolt threads aren't corroded. I run a tap down the block threads as part of the cleaning process and a die down the bolts.

For many purposes your test lamp will be better than a meter - reason why - test lamp will show up an actual current - ie path with little resistance. If a connection is dirty or a switch is failing it'll still pass the small current required by a meter and you'll think that circuit is working. After re-wiring I connect indicator bulb into the first connection from the battery and then work out what's happening. No problems with smoke! For sorting out circuits you don't need acuracy - just need to know if there's a voltage of approximately battery voltage or little resistance - so no need for something high quality. Audible continuity can be handy - saves looking at the thing and reading it.

You have got the swivel filler plugs at the back haven't you? The housing containing the square plugs may be symetrical - but I don't know - so rather than having funny steering or something its easier to check now.

Not sure what you're asking. Brakes vary - 88 till 1980, 88 after 1980, LWB - 6 cylinder. 88's to 1980 (in fact right back to 1948) have 10 inch single leading shoe brakes front and back. From about 1950 they have snail adjusters on the leading shoe - which is ALWAYS the front shoe. Put the adjuster on the back and you'll have a very slack pedal and innefficient brakes. The reason is that the leading shoe (first shoe in roatation after the cylinder)is attracted to the drum by rotation - and hence has to be pulled off to stop it applying itsself. So its fitted with a spring - but the spring will pull the shoe and piston back into the cylinder. Fit an adjuster to prevent this movement and the problem is solved. The other shoe won't apply itself as the bottom (leading edge) is held firmly onto the bottom post by the lower spring and the banjo and stays in place on its own. Other systems are different.

Are you sure that the handle operates the valve properly when the handle is flat. I've seen this problem on another Sealey 3 ton jack - which then started lowering all on its own - Wonderful!

Check the accelerator pump is actually working - take the air cleaner hose off the top of the carb and look down the hole while operating the throttle. You should see a strong jet of fuel go straight down the intake. I had to use parts from 3 Zeniths the other day before I got a working one. Also worth checking the linkages and that the throttle opens fullt - not for the hesitation but general running.

What are you oiling it with? I nearly killed a needle gun with EP90 - to begin with it would run slow till it blew some oil out then slow all the time - till I blew the oil out and flushed it before re-oiling with something thinner. Looks like air tools need something thinner - like the proper stuff!

What's the compression like when you turn it over on the starting handle? Is the rotor arm sound? Is the distributor cap DRY and clean inside? Are the plug insulators dry? Are the points gaps the same for all 4 cam lobes? What happens when you pull the distributor base plate lead - and the lead from the points to the distributor side contact? Are the strange insulators for the points on the distributor post in place correctly and not squashed? Is the inlet manifold - engine and carburettor joints tight?

When they're working properly they should be perfectly adequate - so if they are no good there's something wrong. Problems can be budget new linings that only touch on the ends of the shoe, siezed bottom pivots, siezed cylinders, collapsed hydraylic hoses as well as air in the system and general hydraulic problems. All parts are readily available, some are amazingly cheap. I'd get it working properly bufore considering modification. Much the same goes for the steering - check the joints, then make sure there's oil in the relay (very important), the steering box and the swivels. Also check the arms on the top and bottom of the relay are tightly bolted (55lb ft.) Tracking is important as well.

I suppose you could use 2 and get proper controlled cooling of each cylinder bank rather than a single pump attempting to feed 2 circuits at the same time which probably achieves equal cooling of both banks by good fortune. There's also the possibility of circulating the water from the back which may help with the overheating problems some engines seem to suffer from at the back.

Looks like a S1 (86 or 88in) tailgate and seat box covers (tank cover, locker cover, and centre cover.) What's it worth? - what someone will pay for them. e-bay may give you a guide - but I think you'll find some goes for virtually nothing, some a bit more and owners who start at a high price end up keeping it. You'll still need a pension.

Have a look at the spec of the diesel camshaft - its considerably less soft than the standard petrol one. Rover fitted it to later engines.

I have been known to use 'Roof and Gutter' sealant - which does the job and releases easily if needed. Also scrapes off nicely.

Loads of them, parts new and used and suitable tools on e-bay - worth a look even if just to see what's around. Myford have a web site - and sell parts and books for them. Search carefully and manuals can be downloaded - as can gear calculators and things. Tooling costs money - so worth seeing of any can be included. Some form of quick-change tool holder is useful - saves shimming the things every time you change the tool.