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17 minutes ago, JohnnoK said:

Not trying to be a nag, but those bolts are a bit short. The nylock isn't locked to anything, so they could rattle loose in time.

That's fine

If you read back I made some rubber/ nylon washers to help with keeping steel and aluminium faces apart, the other purpose of that material will dampen vibration and prevent nuts coming off, the nyloc nuts are there to protect the threads due to their extra length, not required to be used as locking nuts, even if they were the exposed threads would rust eventually and effectively make it difficult for nuts to unwind. The old ones I took off had to be ground off and they were just your normal nut and no spring washers regards Stephen

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1 minute ago, Anderzander said:

 did I notice a complete lightweight in the background ? 

 

The one in the background is a Series 2a, it had been started previously, then abandoned due to house move a decade ago, future project now.......lol

Regards Stephen

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3 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

A lot less done than planned today due to my alternator on my doblo packing in, what a pain to change by the way

Reckon it's more difficult than a TDV8? That took me a full week working 3-4h each evening.

First evening was removing all the pipework that was between the engine and radiator packs. Second was undoing 3 bolts on the alternator. Third was wiggling it out (yes it took about 3h and included some wooden wedges to create gaps). Fourth was wiggling new alternator in, fifth was doing up the 3 bolts and sixth was reconnecting all the pipework etc.

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11 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Oh dear Ed, you have my sympathies

Would have taken me 15 minutes with a midway teabreak.............lol

Regards Stephen

Well I think the recommended way is to drop the engine subframe out which necessitates a lift and then it's a couple of hours. Not an option on a grass lawn in-front of your house. Pig of a job where it's buried down in the bowels of the engine.

Mind you not as bad as replacing one of the tip hoses on my father's dumper. That I swear they put the hose on the ground and then welded the chassis of the dumper around it. Utterly moronic design. There were two hose clamps for the tip hoses, one only just had space for an Allen key to reach up through 2ft of chassis near the pivot point, thankfully the hole hadn't rounded off. The other hose clamp necessitated dropping the handbrake and drop box out of the bottom of the engine bay in order to gain access. The sad thing is if they'd moved it 1/2" to the left (where they only had 3-4ft of space) then you could have gained access to it. Even if you could have undone the bolt there wasn't enough space to release the hose without dropping the box out. :angry:

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54 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Yep that's them, I have a tool for fitting them but 3 nuts of the right thread will do the job, put all three on threaded section, the last two nip together and hold them with one spanner while you tighten the bottom one up, until it is tight and material is nipped between rivet stud flanges, apologies if your aware of this regards Stephen

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How did I miss this thread? Stephen, you have the skills that I've aspired to all my life. Seriously impressed and, quite a bit jealous.

 

95 pages to read tonight, better than a new episode of Binky project. 

Excellent. Looking forward to it.

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16 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

A wee bit of Improvisation on my turbo pipe ( had to shorten it to keep hurbie happy....lol )

Flat washer nipped up on my small bead roller

I remember that I did this on stainless steel pipes (for my Gtv V6 Turbo) using an old plumbers tool ment for zinc: when I was finished with the pipes the tool was finished too! The hardened layer of the roller wheels came of during the process...  🤣

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