dangerous doug Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 55 minutes ago, toenden said: That car still lives (if we are talking of the tomcatish thing), or atleast it did in oktober when I ladt meet it in Pomarania 🙂 Still running portals but I don't know which kind. Lovely chaps, and through the years I have seen it fly more than once so used in some anger 😎 It is quite funny in another way aswell, as the engine rests in the rear of the car... As far as I can see on the pictures, the codriver looks to be the same, although a bit older now 🙄 /mads Driver/owner when the mag was published is jerzi(probably spelled wrong, apologies) would love to see more photos of that one. No idea it was rear engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 Is it the one there's video of him rolling it in a river while trying to twist-off on a large rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 Did it have the large pto winch in the back? I think I saw that in scotland on the tay forest trophy. To Stellaghorst, great to see you are on the mend, and great progress! Daan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted July 7, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 7, 2022 Starting to mock things up on the rear, even with engine and body on its going to be sitting up, was wondering if it was worth fitting some lowering springs, even an inch would help, any articulation issues can be dealt with in the bodywork rear ramp breakover is sitting at 90 degrees which was also part of the plan, hopefully get the front around about that angle as well any glaringly obvious mistakes apparent guys or good to go regards Stephen 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 7, 2022 Author Share Posted July 7, 2022 As you can see back axle has moved around 4" to the rear, this will help with prop shaft length also I can guarantee that nuke spec trailing arm bracket is not going to move, snap off, bend etc....lol Regards Stephen 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 I hate to even ask this question / point this out... but given you've re-fabricated the chassis mounts, you could've put an angle on them and avoided having to bend the end of the hockey sticks to meet up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 7, 2022 Author Share Posted July 7, 2022 S#$%%%t happens... Regards Stephen 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 7, 2022 Author Share Posted July 7, 2022 Shiney Regards Stephen 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 Back on topic😁 awesome to see it taking shape Stephen👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 6 hours ago, Stellaghost said: Can’t remember if I previously mentioned this, if it diddnt it’s probably too late but I carefully lapped the splines on my hubs so that they come off with the favourite it’s copper persuader. Made life a lot easier to assemble and disassemble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 7, 2022 Author Share Posted July 7, 2022 57 minutes ago, dangerous doug said: Can’t remember if I previously mentioned this, if it diddnt it’s probably too late but I carefully lapped the splines on my hubs so that they come off with the favourite it’s copper persuader. Made life a lot easier to assemble and disassemble I've already done a wee bit of lapping, also put them on with copper slip, taking them off is not too bad I've made a puller and use a hydraulic jack so it's pretty straightforward regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted July 8, 2022 Share Posted July 8, 2022 17 hours ago, Stellaghost said: was wondering if it was worth fitting some lowering springs Looks like you have lift springs now? A standard spring would probably work. But don't go too low, uptravel is nice to have. A portal axled car is always going to be high up unless it's mid engined and the chassis rails go up a lot above the axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 8, 2022 Author Share Posted July 8, 2022 58 minutes ago, elbekko said: Looks like you have lift springs now? A standard spring would probably work. But don't go too low, uptravel is nice to have. A portal axled car is always going to be high up unless it's mid engined and the chassis rails go up a lot above the axle. I've ordered some 1" lower springs, not going too low but it will offset the fact I had to raise spring mounts in order to clear portal box flanges, so actual chassis height will not change significantly at all regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toenden Posted July 8, 2022 Share Posted July 8, 2022 21 hours ago, Daan said: Did it have the large pto winch in the back? I think I saw that in scotland on the tay forest trophy. I am not sure if it is in the back, but deffenetely pto and deffenetely strong/fast. I once saw it move a 5m long and 0,4m diameter tree trunk up a hill with the winch, running more or less only on the front wheels... I think it was meant to go over 🙄 🙂 /mads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted July 9, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 9, 2022 Rear A frame fulcrum bent to required angle, took some bending had to use a 6' length of pipe to move it with loads of heat involved As it was application of heat sorted Regards Stephen 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 23 hours ago, Stellaghost said: took some bending had to use a 6' length of pipe to move it with loads of heat involved That's probably a good thing considering the application 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 12, 2022 Author Share Posted July 12, 2022 Spring hangers Welded on and rear springs fitted, what a carry on, never mind,some rear crossmember modifications required but I'll wait until I'm cycling suspension regards Stephen 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted July 14, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 14, 2022 Well its been a three steps forward and 27 back couple of days but the end result is chassis sitting on springs and looking ok Regards Stephen 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 Forgot to mention wheelbase sitting at 93" so it's short and fat regards Stephen 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 19, 2022 Author Share Posted July 19, 2022 Sides for gearbox/ single link fitted Single link Arms slid onto axle mounts and looking tight near chassis, think I need engine and box fitted to compress suspension and see where the land lies so to speak, stepping out of my comfort zone here so any advice appreciated Will need engine and box in to start cycling the suspension for shocks as well Thoughts please regards Stephen 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 If you choose a loaded ride height that will set the shock points tacked in place then the axles can be cycled without springs or engine/boxes ? Or am I missing something ? I seem to recall @landroversforever is sort of at this stage with his 90? Regardless , I'm enjoying this whole build immensely Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Yep, I know you just put them in, but having the springs out is important for this sort of thing.... Are the arms cranked to go up as well as in to the centre of Sid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Worst case for the arms in relation to clearance of the engine and chassis will be without springs, and the chassis dropped right down onto the bump stops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 19, 2022 Author Share Posted July 19, 2022 40 minutes ago, steve b said: If you choose a loaded ride height that will set the shock points tacked in place 24 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Yep, I know you just put them in, but having the springs out is important for this sort of thing.... So what I'm getting from the above comments is I need to set a loaded height, putting the engine and box in and resting front and rear winches on will get me somewhere near, at this point I can trial fit my shocks and tack stuff into position ??? Then remove weight and springs and cycle suspension ?? I need to fit engine and box first because I need to make one link and have it connected to chassis otherwise my front axle will spin and believe me it's not fun putting it back into position, ask me how I know x 3 lol Also this will allow me to see what I have to navigate with regards to sump and prop shaft in order to get one link to work 31 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Are the arms cranked to go up as well as in to the centre of Sid? Not yet, I've had another look, I can gain some more clearance by taking 25mm off the short weldable end, this improves things considerably, also chassis is super strong so I could put some neat scallops in to help out with where arms are at full articulation 22 minutes ago, landroversforever said: Worst case for the arms in relation to clearance of the engine and chassis will be without springs, and the chassis dropped right down onto the bump stops. Should I do this as a matter of course Thanks all for your input and apologies if you think I'm being a bit dense about this regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Work out your tunnel and under bonnet height, this tells you how high or low you can set the engine and box, once you know where the bottom of the sump will be you can put the axle on full bump preferable without bump stops, if you have lots of clearance you can lower the engine abit, if not I would suggest making some 'sturdy' bump stop spacers so the axle can't clout the sump. I had a hard landing one day and the gywn lewis trackrod guard pushed the base of the sump up to square the corners off with standard bump stops. At the moment I would suggest you have too many variables at your disposal given your making everything but if you start with 'factory' settings and alter only what needs to alter you won't go far wrong, the factory got a lot right IMHO. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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