Muttland Posted June 14, 2019 Share Posted June 14, 2019 Hi to All: I would like to know if it extractor in Amazon is suitable for the steering pointers of Land Rover Defender and Land Rover Discovery 1 and 2. Its look very strong but I don't know if it is too small or not https://www.amazon.com/EWK-Splitter-Separator-Remover-Extractor/dp/B00H8KLGT4/ref=nav_ya_signin?keywords=ball+joint+extractor&qid=1560538421&s=gateway&sr=8-25& Thank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted June 14, 2019 Share Posted June 14, 2019 I always just use a large hammer. Hit the side of the casting with the hole in it right and the ball joint pops out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 I use one like this...... Got mine off the bay of E and works as it should Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 You mean there is something other than a hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 Hammer didnt work last time I tried to do one without my tool. I was hitting it for ages, wouldnt budge. I have a similar one to mutley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 Also, with nicely painted stuff, you hardly want to be hammering on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 The type shown is pretty much the same as the one I use. One hint - if the joint's taper doesn't seem to want to come apart don't just keep tightening and tightening until something breaks. Tighten it up reasonably-tight, then go and have a coffee (or a beer). When you come back half an hour later chances are the taper will have 'popped' as intended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 1 hour ago, Tanuki said: The type shown is pretty much the same as the one I use. One hint - if the joint's taper doesn't seem to want to come apart don't just keep tightening and tightening until something breaks. Tighten it up reasonably-tight, then go and have a coffee (or a beer). When you come back half an hour later chances are the taper will have 'popped' as intended. And if that does not work then you can also use hammer shock technique while under load from the spliter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 Where possible I use two hammers im;pacting on opposite sides, all you need is a slight deflection in the cone for it to come apart. I have never used that type of splitter I used to use the fork type you hit in between but these ruin the rubbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 Both the splitters pictured look up to the task. +1 on winding it up and going for a break or tapping the tool. I have some 4" diameter taper joints to split shortly... Even works on them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 I’ve got a similar one which hasn’t failed me yet. Just had to tickle it with the grinder to get it over the slightly longer HD TREs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 On 6/15/2019 at 2:28 AM, reb78 said: Hammer didnt work last time I tried to do one without my tool. I was hitting it for ages, wouldnt budge. I have a similar one to mutley. You are not doing it right.... Every ball joint taper ever comes off this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 With pressed steel suspension/steering component, for example on a mcpherson strut, the hammer method will not always work, even if not rusted in. If pressed steel, I find the damage you cause not to be worth it, and just pull the separator tool out every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 10 hours ago, Bowie69 said: With pressed steel suspension/steering component, for example on a mcpherson strut, the hammer method will not always work, even if not rusted in. If pressed steel, I find the damage you cause not to be worth it, and just pull the separator tool out every time. This thread is about Defenders and Discos. Let's not get off topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 3 hours ago, Red90 said: This thread is about Defenders and Discos. Let's not get off topic. 16 hours ago, Red90 said: You are not doing it right.... Every ball joint taper ever comes off this way. With the best will in the world this is misleading then..... Not trying to pick fault, but someone following the advice there could damage their vehicle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 18 hours ago, Red90 said: You are not doing it right.... Every ball joint taper ever comes off this way. One hammer, two hammers (one on each side, hit together or apart), as i was changning them i even tried the end of the ball joint. I gave up before I broke something. So each to their own, but if you are happy potentially damaging things thats fine. I wasn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 There’s no excuse, unless you’re in the middle of nowhere, to use anything other than the proper tool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 On 6/15/2019 at 5:40 PM, ballcock said: Where possible I use two hammers im;pacting on opposite sides, all you need is a slight deflection in the cone for it to come apart. This ^^^ is close to what I was going to say. Normally I hold a club hammer static against the arm to support it, and wallop the opposite side with my 2lb ball pein. Just hitting with a single hammer sends all the shock loading down the line, and just isn't as effective. Never failed to split one yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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