L19MUD Posted March 9, 2020 Author Share Posted March 9, 2020 1 hour ago, Landyrew said: How about covering it in vinyl stuck with spray adhesive. Easy wipe down. Great thread, I've enjoyed following. Need to be brave enough to tackle the chassis replacement myself. That's not a bad idea, the other thing I have found is rubber sheet in a chequer plate pattern https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223471920429 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landyrew Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 25 minutes ago, L19MUD said: That's not a bad idea, the other thing I have found is rubber sheet in a chequer plate pattern https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223471920429 Even better and it would be hard wearing. I've got a similar sheet as flooring in the rear, it's been in there for years, put in by the MOD when they had the truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 Sealing around the areas where the wheel arches meet the bulkhead is a good thing to do, same at the rear door threshold. When water gets under the matt is doesn't dry out and you get that damp smell coming through. My two spaniels add their own special fragrance on top of mine and it can be a bit overpowering in the summer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 Castle mats are another option, serious sound proofing, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 OK a bit of a Coronavirus isolation update. I have been working on a few things First I have re trimmed my seats with Masai black and red stitching. They look great and were really not hard to do once you have watched a couple of online videos. I would really recommend doing this if your seats are ripped or manky 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 Next up the sound deadening and insulation has continued. I have done most of the front cab now plus started on the doors. I fitted foam based insulation from Lasalle in the roof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 And I have had a delivery of some exciting new stuff! 😁 Galvanised parts came back. Cost me £75 for all this which seemed really good value. My Lasalle order of headlining, side trims and back door trim also arrived. Got to love shiny new stuff!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 Seats and galvanising both look great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 Seats look fab, Fresh galvanised bits are cool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 The seats came out well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 Yes really pleased with the seats and once you know what you are doing they were pretty easy. I even fitted heated seat pads whilst I was there! There are some creases from where they were packed for delivery which I think will come out now fitted Just got to finish the rear tip up seats now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 Cracked on with the rear seat metalwork tonight which has had its first couple of coats of paint Sadly also cracked one of the main rear windows when removing it which is going to be impossible to resolve now given the lockdown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 Now starting to move on to running wiring. How have other people routed wires from the battery box? Previously I had wires running over the transmission tunnel under the matts there but really want to avoid that this time. I was thinking I will mount the fuseboard on the rear bulkhead with wires coming up behinds the seats and then into the existing holes in the battery box, then run the wires to/from the bulkhead switches back through the battery box, under the truck in some of that flexible plastic conduit and then bring them back into the truck in one of the unused grommets either side of the standard fuse box. I would then use the grommet on the other side to run the 6 cables needed from the head unit to the amp but take then up the other side and put the amp behind the pass seat. Speaker cables can then be easily run to the rear door and headlining from there In addition and whilst totally uncessary I had a measure up and I think I could just squeeze a 10 inch shallow sub in the middle then make an enclosure in the triangular void the other side of the bulkhead as an enclosure. It is about 18 litres in size so should work pretty well What have others done? Excuse my 5 year old paint skills Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 I have a second fusebox in my battery box, feeding stuff in my Mud console. I ran the cables through a conduit from the battery box (new hole and grommet), underneath the footwell / along the gearbox and then up the engine side of the bulkhead and in through that big grommet on the left of your fuses. Then up behind the lower dash. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 On 4/1/2020 at 4:12 PM, Peaklander said: I have a second fusebox in my battery box, feeding stuff in my Mud console. I ran the cables through a conduit from the battery box (new hole and grommet), underneath the footwell / along the gearbox and then up the engine side of the bulkhead and in through that big grommet on the left of your fuses. Then up behind the lower dash. I may be able to fit it in the battery box and that reduces the holes I need to drill. Tonight see me bodging my door back together. Not pretty but it is all covered and now the left hand bottom of the door is fixed to the right side!! New doors when I am feeling fluch and can afford a respray are going to be on the cards. This should last a while yet though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 Some more lock down progress. I have fitted central locking to the back door using the newer door lock and latch mechanism which provides an output for the central locking without having to butcher the old lock. The upside (or downside!) to this is that the newer style lock uses the larger lock barrels so I would have a different key for the rear door. I decided to replace the ignition barrel, front door locks and rear door lock with the new style barrels, this also required new door handles. The additional up side is that the locks are better than the old ones and I now have a posh Puma key for all locks except the fuel filler. I don't think there is a way I can change this to match in? Drilling out the old Ignition barrel fittings New door handles and locks Puma style keys I am using a Hawk kit for the central locking. I chose to make a bracket out of Alluminium plate and fix it at the bottom instead of using the strips with the kit as fixing it at the top would have caused a problem for the trim fitting. It needs to be in this position for the rod to also clear the trim. The whit plastic pivot is the standard part from a later Defender I am not a massive fan of the rear door smashing into the side of me when parked on a side slope to the left so I have fitted a gas strutt from Masai. It was expensive but it does the job well Then onto the task of fitting the rear door trim. I had a few problems with this, some not the fault of LaSalle but some were 1 - The door handle does not fit in the correct place it needs to be moved across 2 inches. Not a huge issue but I had already drilled the holes as per the instructions, hence the extra bolt in to the right of the left hand fixing. I used Rivnuts in the frame to reattach. Not the end of the world but annoying 2- It did not line up perfectly left to right. It cannot be moved much as it needs to fit around the door lock slider. Its not a big deal and you don't really notice once fitted but it should really be further to the left. If it was in a Range Rover I think I would be annoyed but in the Defender it is fine 3 - 6 Self tapping screws as per the kit and instructions to fit it are a joke! I used many more than that. particularly as I have some speakers fitted and don't want it to rattle 4 - The last issue was one of my own creation. The Gas strut fouls the bottom of the trim. No amount of packing out or messing about resolved this so in the end I took the brave decsision to cut out a section of the trim and then using a cut off from the speaker holes I riveted a section over the top. I think it looks tidy enough and the sacrifice for the gas strut is worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 As part of my major reqire of all accessories I decided to fit heated mirrors. They require holes to be drilled in the mirror head at the bottom, the ball of the arm, into the side of the arm and then the dust cap on the bottom. Lastly holes need to be drilled in the door between the door hinge bolts All results in quite a tidy instal though with just the wires showing at the bottom of the dust cap into the hinge Wires through the arm Final fitted product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 The mirrors look good. I used the same method last year and am really happy with them. Coupled with a heated front screen it has transformed driving on wet, humid days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 1 hour ago, Peaklander said: The mirrors look good. I used the same method last year and am really happy with them. Coupled with a heated front screen it has transformed driving on wet, humid days. That is what I am hoping. I have fitted the Defendervents from MUD UK too to try and demist the side windows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 I don't have those; I'm not sure if I've even seen them so will take a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 23 minutes ago, Peaklander said: I don't have those; I'm not sure if I've even seen them so will take a look. They are a great idea but very expensive for what they are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landyrew Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 Coming along well, it is looking great. What make of seat covers did you use for the retrim and did you replace the foams as well? They do look smart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 10 hours ago, Landyrew said: Coming along well, it is looking great. What make of seat covers did you use for the retrim and did you replace the foams as well? They do look smart. I used the masai ones and I am very happy with them. Would certainly recommend I didn't change the foam as all of it was in really good condition when I took the old covers off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 I have now started to move onto what I guess could be deemed non essential works but will make the 90 a nicer place to be My previous window tints were either scratched or discoloured. I decided to replace them myself and all bar the rear window I figured this should be easy given the glass is all out of the truck. The only thing I have struggled with is marking the tint which seems to be very easily scratched, I wonder if the quality of the tint is poor? Working on a big clear area makes life much easier. The trick seems to be to get everything very very wet with water and a tiny amount of fairy liquid to break the surface tension of the water and then use a scrap of tint on top of what you are working on to run the squeegie over to avoid scratches The single window done on the truck came out well Next I moved onto a very non essential job of making a Sub woofer enclosure behind the middle seat. I made the front panel first and then using a bit of CAD (Carboard Aided Design) I shaped up the side panels. There is just enough volume here for the 10 inch shallow sub I am fitting The finished box with a first coat of paint. I have subsequently given another couple of coats and given it a bead of white tiger seal between the bulkhead and the box 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 Next up are the front doors. I have gone from no electrics in there to heated mirrors, elec windows and central locking. The kit for the windows provided a plastic tube to run the cables in and no guidance on how to do a nice job. I was not happy with that idea so I bought the rubber hoses that are fitted to the later posh Defenders and got my mate to take a couple of pictures of his Puma with the intent to replicate that if possible. I don't have pictures of the central locking actuators but I fitted them in the middle of the door with the rods running horizontal towards the door locks and then taped the wires to the insulation to keep them out of the way of the window. The Window regulators that came with the Masai kit needed a trim of the metal panels to give enough clearance. This means losing the bottom fixing on that side which is not satisfactory as it then twists when the window gets to the top. I overcame this with a simple aluminium bracket bolted to the original fixing. We then have the issue of where to run the wires. The Puma solution is to run them into the A pillar void of the bulkhead which I copied, the wires are higher up on the Puma but mounting at the bottom made it simpler to ensure the window did not foul anything. I cut a hole with a dremel in the bulkhead and also the black metal strip that holds the kick panel rubber in.I was pleased to see how much waxoil was in the pillar! Final wiring route The door card then needed a very minor trim with a craft knife to clear the wires and was then fitted with new fixings and the blanking trim from Masai from where the window winder used to be 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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