western Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 How we removed/refitted my 110CSW body is in the tech archive & my rechassis thread. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted February 11, 2020 Author Share Posted February 11, 2020 Ok so body on I started to think about what will hold me up getting it back on the road and realised the main thing out of my control was the galvanising and then painting/powder coating of some of the bolt on items. Cue a very dirty dusty day starting to get everything cleaned up Just how fussy are the galvanisers when it comes to specs of paint or pits of metal where it is difficult to get the rust out? The pile of bits to clean is getting smaller... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 The few times I've been to a galvaniser they like clean stuff as it saves there chemicals from getting fluffed up with dirt and old paint etc, but realistically the acid dips they have a pretty good unless its a really hard paint or big lump of rubbery sealant stuff. Surface finish they didn't seem to care about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted February 11, 2020 Author Share Posted February 11, 2020 4 minutes ago, Maverik said: The few times I've been to a galvaniser they like clean stuff as it saves there chemicals from getting fluffed up with dirt and old paint etc, but realistically the acid dips they have a pretty good unless its a really hard paint or big lump of rubbery sealant stuff. Surface finish they didn't seem to care about. I think i might have been being a bit anal about it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 All the brackets I sent last time I blasted first. They do prefer stuff clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted February 11, 2020 Author Share Posted February 11, 2020 I have been using a mixture of flap discs/wire cup brush and electrolysis then finishing with the blaster where I can get the part in the cabinet My compressor can't keep up with the blaster so I have to alternate between methods and parts which makes progress slow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 You will need to drill vent and drain holes in closed hollow sections so no matter which way the galvanisers hang it there are no trapped air pockets or anywhere for the zinc to get trapped . They will drill it themselves otherwise and it's not cheap Nice to see it back together , it's a good moment lifting the rolling chassis up to the body and watching all line up . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 1 hour ago, L19MUD said: I think i might have been being a bit anal about it.... I'd say it will still be worth it as the galvanisers will be happier with what you're bringing - and happy folks are more willing to help you out with any bits you've missed etc. If you drag a big pile of crusty junk in they're not going to be well disposed toward you! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 When I took my blasted chassis in sheeted up they laughed at me and said the pickle works better on rusty metal.. I would take a decent battery drill, box of drill bits and a paint marker so you can mark and drill any holes they want there and then, Trust me having to take it away is annoying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted February 12, 2020 Author Share Posted February 12, 2020 19 hours ago, steve b said: You will need to drill vent and drain holes in closed hollow sections so no matter which way the galvanisers hang it there are no trapped air pockets or anywhere for the zinc to get trapped . They will drill it themselves otherwise and it's not cheap Nice to see it back together , it's a good moment lifting the rolling chassis up to the body and watching all line up . cheers Steve b Thanks Steve. The only thing that has hollow sections are the tree sliders which were previously galvanised and have holes in them already so should be good on that front. Looking forward to it being back on the road but I have got a lot of wiring and interior to sort out first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted February 12, 2020 Author Share Posted February 12, 2020 18 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: I'd say it will still be worth it as the galvanisers will be happier with what you're bringing - and happy folks are more willing to help you out with any bits you've missed etc. If you drag a big pile of crusty junk in they're not going to be well disposed toward you! I hope it will resemble something far from rusty junk after the amount of hours I have spent at the shotblast cabinet in the freezing cold!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted February 15, 2020 Author Share Posted February 15, 2020 Nearly done! Pile of bits to do is much smaller now 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 As I said in another thread recently, to make your post galvanising life easier, at this stage identify every threaded hole or male item, both thread size (diameter and tpi) and type (SAE or metric). Once items come back covered in zinc identification can be difficult. Tapped holes will require drilling out and re-tapping, and male threads will need addressing with the correct thread file as a minimum. Although I've got both SAE and metric tap and die sets up to 12mm and 1/2" I have still had to buy additional re-threading items. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 Or, fill them/coat them with silicone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted February 23, 2020 Share Posted February 23, 2020 I don't know about that. One thread on this forum IIRC stated that silicones burn off at a lower temperature than zinc melts,so, unless the ash/residue prevents zinc adhesion it won't work. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 On 2/23/2020 at 12:17 AM, Troll Hunter said: I don't know about that. One thread on this forum IIRC stated that silicones burn off at a lower temperature than zinc melts,so, unless the ash/residue prevents zinc adhesion it won't work. Mike Throw the search term into Google and it pulls up a heaps of ways. Personally I just use consumable nuts and bolts to plug up any threads I dont want covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 I've done it. The series steering relay collar is attached to the chassis via 4 bolts. I filled with silicone, to fit the relay I had a tap ready to dress the threads. The tap went straight in. No work. The silicone burns off, but the ash is all that has to be removed. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 I wish I had known that before I had my chassis and other components galved! Maverick, how do you remove your throw away nuts and bolts after galvanising? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 6 hours ago, Troll Hunter said: I wish I had known that before I had my chassis and other components galved! Maverick, how do you remove your throw away nuts and bolts after galvanising? Mike If you put copper slip on before you put them in they generally just wind off, the zinc coating isn't all that strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 14 hours ago, Gazzar said: I've done it. The series steering relay collar is attached to the chassis via 4 bolts. I filled with silicone, to fit the relay I had a tap ready to dress the threads. The tap went straight in. No work. The silicone burns off, but the ash is all that has to be removed. Adding stuff like silicone grease etc or anything that burns you are introducing debris into the zinc bath that then adds to the flotsam on the top when they pull it out, with some "dirty" parts I've had some pretty rough dips due to the debris being left on the part when its pulled out, you then have to tidy it up prior to use. A piece of duck tape got left on a protected surface from the shot blaster and it got dipped, made a hell of a mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 A bit of an update, I put nuts and bolts on the threaded sections but didn't think of copper slip first, will do that. I have now stripped out all of the interior ready to give it a revamp and also change the cappings, not been this empty for 18 years! Cappings were galvanised and a little rough so I sanded down a bit but was worried about going through the galv. Then painted with mordant solution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 Now had 5 coats of primer and 5 top coat, will wet and dry then give another 5 coats of top and then lacquer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 9, 2020 Author Share Posted March 9, 2020 A little more progress, the new cappings are on and looking good. Plus I have cleaned out the rear tub and started fitting sound deadening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 9, 2020 Author Share Posted March 9, 2020 How do other people cover the internal bulkhead to tidyy it up? Last time I had black carpet stuck on there with spray adhesive Are there any off the shelf options which are a big more dog/water resistant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landyrew Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 3 hours ago, L19MUD said: How do other people cover the internal bulkhead to tidyy it up? Last time I had black carpet stuck on there with spray adhesive Are there any off the shelf options which are a big more dog/water resistant? How about covering it in vinyl stuck with spray adhesive. Easy wipe down. Great thread, I've enjoyed following. Need to be brave enough to tackle the chassis replacement myself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.