2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?

[Bowie69]

...and a battery to charge

 

[Gazzar]

And a starter, to start.

Sigh.

I do have a spare battery, but it's running an irrigation system at the moment. 

[Gazzar]

Good news, and bad.

Bad first.

I thought I had enough core plugs. I don't, so I'll have to order one. I'll order other stuff at the same time, clutch pipes and the like.

Getting close to paint time!

Good news.

I've enough clearance for the 115mm trigger wheel. Just. But good enough.

More ordering!

 

[Gazzar]

Goodness.

[Landrover17H]

Ooo er Missus.

[Gazzar]

Quite.

[Gazzar]

I think I'll get this alternator.

I can't find a middle ground price wise, between the cheapo alternators and the really good alternators.

This will do for testing.

[Gazzar]

I need the alternator in place so i can ensure the clearance is there for the CPS sensor mount.

[Landrover17H]

Keep meaning to put my 'Amp-clamp' on the cheapy to see if it truly does put out its claimed 55Amps.  Your choice will be fine, and if the suppliers claim is good, better than mine by 5A. Unless it's a pile of poo, my money says it'll be on there for quite a while.

My money's also on this project becoming a stonker.

Set to be a pearl, here's what I do know. In the real world, pleasant and safe comes in at around 55mph. For a ‘daily’ going much faster for a heap reasons is better done in something else. For this 88/109s need power at 200TDi levels - not much more.   When we want 90mph, any in your street, or mine, has a car for that… And?
Even minded to mine being a full kitted 2.8, I’m sure there’s a grunted V8 out there that’d thrash me, but  as a 'daily' it'd be no use to me. What I like about your project is the way I suspect  it’ll do that 55mph. Like mine, but better. Mine’s good, yet nothing’s perfect, and everything’s a compromise. Thing is, yours promises that edge.

I truly look forward to this one.

Edited June 29, 2020 by Landrover17H

[Gazzar]

Thanks!

 

My aim is a truck that can cruise at slow motorway speeds, at acceptable economy.

It's on 7.50 R 16 tyres, and I'd got RRC diffs, so it should have the legs.....

 

I've also ordered new core plugs, I'm not happy with the set I fitted earlier, they were too easy to fit.....

[Gazzar]

The thermostat housing has arrived.

It's interesting. The "closed stat" bypass is different to the series.

It looks like the heater matrix is the main route for the bypass, with a minor relief in the series route. The 110 matrix is hot all the time, unlike a series, as it has a diverter for the airflow.

This poses a challenge.

IF, if, I follow the series plumbing for the heater, then the second port in the housing won't get a decent coolant flow.

I think the lightweight plumbing has the heater matrix hot all the time, but I could be wrong.

So, I could use port two for the coolant sender, and port one for the heater, and connect the other end of the heater matrix to the port at the back of the head. That should create a loop.

The downside of this is the heater, in the cab, is on all the time. Which would be uncomfortable in the heat.

I'd like to avoid this, which I think means opening up the tiny hole in the housing, and make it more series like.

It might be time for the tungsten die grinders.

If I do this, though, the heater matrix will take longer to heat in the winter.

If I put a tap in the heater circuit, and close the bypass loop, will the engine blow up? Or will the stat just open quicker?

I think I need a white board, I'm not able to visualise this today.

[Gazzar]

I spent the evening painting. And generalised thinking.

Lots of zinc and primer. I'm going to vinyl wrap the various tubes, with heat shrink.

 

[Gazzar]

And I've been looking at the plumbing. I think it will work, though I'm not sure if I will be able to get the heater connection via the back of the block. It's a weird thread. Not the same as the spigots on the thermostat housing.

I think it's a fine Imperial thread.

I think I'll order up the senders from Nige, so I can figure out how to fit them neatly, and looking reasonably OEM.

I might have to fit the coolant to the neck of the head and plumb the heater defender style.

[Gazzar]

I've had to order bolts for the engine mounts, the oil filter and the thermostat.

Irritating.

 

[Gazzar]

The trigger wheel is going to happen soon, it's looking good. I'll soon up the lathe, and see if I can cut an inner hole. I might start it with the hole saw.

[deep]

Is that weird thread a plumber's one? Can't remember how many t.p.i. but I have struck that on cooling systems.

Edited June 30, 2020 by deep
Senior moment/brain fart.

[Gazzar]

It could well be. I'm hoping it's a standard series part. The plug that's there now certainly is. I might look at what I've in the series engine on the shelf.

[Landrover17H]

As  my 'Gauge install' tread, on the 'puck' it's 3/8 BSP. I can say for definite I used plumbing 'black-iron' fittings on rear LHS of the head with a 'Tee' to feed the heater, and the ACR manilfold. In my case I've a coiler heater in there. Works dandy, Thus you port 'One' went to the inlet manifold, exiting the manifold heating, hence  to the the 'tee'. S3 cable-op heater valve removed.

 

This is an old pic, and shows work-in-progess for he heater-box install, but you get the idea..

Edited July 1, 2020 by Landrover17H

[Landrover17H]

My betting is that rear is 3/8"BSP or M16

[Landrover17H]

Sorry, I’m confusing you here - I wrote…

“Thus you port 'One' went to the inlet manifold, exiting the manifold heating, hence  to the the 'tee'. “

Wrong: My plumbing goes:

[Your Port “Two”>> ‘ ACR Heated Manifold’ >> ‘Tee’ at back left of Head >> Tee splits to Heater.

The Series cable-op valve removed. I've not experienced any issues with poor flow to any. Minded to me having (via Your Port One) the additional requirement for a gas-reducer to be heated too, and I heat the ACR Heated Manifold (via Your Port “Two”), I doubt you have much to worry about. Before fitting the coiler heater-box I had an S3 box like anyone else.  I had the cable-op valve in. Both set-ups worked fine. I'll dig about a bit if you like, but my reckoning is 'mystery' thread is M16. I know for certain the thread for the gauge adaptor (temp sender) at the front RHS of head (HRC1303 casting)  is M16 - on mine anyway. One way to tell the age of your 17H - earlier lumps give sight of gauge-adaptor - metric gauge-adaptor ERC8973. M16 X 1 / 5/8” UNF. Sod's law says you've an Imperial threaded head, but I think those came on the last 5MB S3?

A Series era head has S3 gauge-adaptor, 568457 (UNF).

I know, it's tragic... I need to get out more, I  actually know this stuff.

 

Edited July 2, 2020 by Landrover17H

[Gazzar]

That's helpful. I think I need a good plumbing supply place. Which probably means taking a day off.

So it would be cheaper to buy the correct part ERC9453, even at the insane price.

I'm tempted to make my own, if I could find some hex bar stock in brass.

[Gazzar]

I have one! It's a bit used/abused, and might even be an imperial one that I drove in to the other metric head.

But, with a bit of PTFE tape, it will do.

[Landrover17H]

Ah, now here's another take on this. Here's pix:  another 17H, this.... 'as yet unmolested' See how our mystery port is capped? Had a quick look, pretty sure it's M16. Which leads to ask, how in the hell my 'daily'  goes to BSP 'black-iron' from M16? I don't remember any struggle?

Edited July 2, 2020 by Landrover17H

[Gazzar]

I've replaced the core plugs. They were difficult enough to remove, but still a bit too loose. So, glad to have done the job.

[Gazzar]

The rest of the evening was painting and paint prep.

Oh, and making a cover for the distributor aperature. I used a big chunk of alloy.