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Has anyone just adjusted the pump on a 200/300tdi without going down the route of exhaust gas temp stuff, ie not touching the fueling screw? Or just buy a boost pin ? Canyou get the same performance buy just rotating the original pin . I ain't got a clue so I thought I would ask

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This is an informative video on a boost pin here. I think it's always wise to fit an egt monitor when fiddling about as it's a good indicator to let you know when you are pushing things too much before something goes wrong. 

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I cant see the point of the boost pin. Mine is excellent without it. Just rotate the one in there so that the deepest cut out faces towards the front of the engine. My advice is to leave the starwheel alone and only adjust the pressure screw on the rear of the pump in 1/8th turn increments until the desired effect is obtained. 

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32 minutes ago, reb78 said:

I cant see the point of the boost pin. Mine is excellent without it. Just rotate the one in there so that the deepest cut out faces towards the front of the engine. My advice is to leave the starwheel alone and only adjust the pressure screw on the rear of the pump in 1/8th turn increments until the desired effect is obtained. 

So you have just moved the original pin and turned up the fueling. With or without a egt thing?

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My two pennies worth is rotate the original pin as far as you can and that'll do it. The EGT gauge is useful I guess but I think it's only really important if you push the engine hard all the time. Normal driving with a bit of a push every now and then doesn't really need a constant exhaust temperature monitoring system.

I rotated my 300Tdi pin to the max about 18 months ago and never had a problem. Equally my 200Tdi has had the same done as well as a few other tweaks and this has been like it for 5+ years with no ill effects. Neither have an EGT gauge.

You can easily get bogged down with monitoring this and that but ultimately unless you're running full bore all the time I don't see the point.

 

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The boost pin is not for adding more fuel.  The point of the boost pin is to get a wider RANGE of boost fueling compensation.  The stock pin has enough range for around 16 psi.  Once you run at a higher boost level, there is no way not to be really smoky off boost with the on boost fueling set correctly.  At that point adding a boost pin lets you REDUCE off boost fueling so that it is not too smoky.

As far as power is concerned, you need to adjust the in boost, full throttle fueling.  The only safe way to do this is with an EGT gauge.

Edited by Red90
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Some ten or so years ago I had an Alisport inter-cooler fitted, and the fueling was "adjusted" at the same time.  Fortunately I had already fitted an EGT because I very soon found that exhaust gas temperatures could very quickly, like in a few seconds, shoot up to above 750 Deg C. when on full throttle but down at 2000 rpm.  ie working hard.   Yes, please get an EGT gauge before you adjust fueling.  A gauge is far cheaper than a new set of exhaust valves. 

Since exhaust gas temperature can change so very quickly I have replaced the fuel gauge in the dash cluster with the EGT gauge, so that it is right in front of me, and I have relocated the fuel gauge to a Mud dash top panel.  I don't need to look at my fuel gauge more than once an hour, so out of the direct line of sight is no problem.

Mike

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IMO EGT should be fitted before playing with any tuning on a diesel.... its all too easy for stuff to get a bit hot if you make a mistake.

Have a chat with @NRS91 He's an experienced chap with mechanical diesel tuning both on the LR Tdis and also the cummins lumps. He also sells a decent boost pin amongst other things, one with the proper material properties unlike a lot of them on the market.

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I'm with the 'fit an EGT' sentiment. I did, and its been quite instructive watching the gauge and glancing at the wing mirror to see the smoke/lack of smoke depending on where  the throttle is in whichever gear. Tetsu0san is right - in normal circumstances where you might make minor tweaks you might not need one, but if you really start messing around with fueling its pretty easy to get in a right mess, and quickly, and an EGT gauge can be a real benefit. I say this as someone who had a fuel pump overhaul go wrong* and the EGT gauge was critical in saving my engine from getting trashed as I could see (apart from the obvious clouds of black some coming out the back) that the EG temps were bonkers so I was able to 'drive safe' until  it was diagnosed and sorted.

(*problem was a stuck fueling pin - the one that come out horizontally and mates with, and moves relative to, the vertical 'boost pin' thus adjusting fuel delivery relative to boost. Mine was stuck out and firing loads of fuel in irrespective of boost with all the expected consequences you can imagine. It was so stuck apparently it required a welding rod stuck in the back of the pump and tacked to it and a big guy pulling very hard to get it out). 

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EGT kits are so cheap now (as compared to 15 years ago), you might as well fit one for safety sake. Having said that, I haven't got one fitted - just never got round to it.

I'm running about 135 on the dyno, with pump tweaks, lots of head work, easy flow exhaust etc. I'm not running a boost pin upgrade - waste of money, unless, as Red 90 said, you use it for what it is meant for...

I wanted a strong, reliable, economic, flexible engine, that will last forever. I don't want to roll coal or try to drive my disco like a sports car

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