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The next step in trying to finish the rear cross member is fabricating a structural backbone for the tub bulkhead and seat base.

Like all things LR, whilst there are many identical bits, there are many variations. My Cab Chassis truck cab has the structural angle on the rear side of the cab rear bulkhead. This includes two cleats that get a stay bolted to each and to each chassis rail. These are about the seatbelt retainer clasp area. 

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On the forward side there are bolt in brackets for seatbelt mounts and a couple of stiffening gussets.

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Full body hard tops and pick-ups have the angle on the forward side and incorporate the seatbelt mounts etc into them. I stumbled across this going through YRM site for parts

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Reason is the floor ties into the tub bulkhead and there are gussets from each floor stiffener and at the edges of the wheel wells.

Not the red circles lol. 

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I have no idea if the factory affair is one piece or two like the YRM replacement, they may have gone 2 for shipping purposes, either way I want one piece so it helps stiffen this area. That may seem unnecessary but where my seat base and tub bulkhead meet/bolt, they are both bowed down across their length. 
 

So some quick measurements and a basic sketch to my local steel supplier had him fold me some 3mm mild steel. 

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I still have to profile it to the underside shape of the tub bulkhead.

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That’s where I’m at this week anyway…

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Haha settle down guys 😆

I’ll be doing Series style doors to begin with. For one, just easier. I’ve spoken with my engineer and as long as they meet or exceed my original doors for side impact protection then all should be good. 
 

I have 2x L & R series front door bottoms that I’ll de skin cut, shunt and modify. There is a guy in Oz making new skins and has said he could make longer skins for me.

I thought I’d sorted aluminium door top extrusion but was let down. The major players are not interested in selling me any lengths, so I’m just hoping something comes up by the time I need it.

 

btw scaling the rims on the LR LCV 2/3 shows the doors only 60-100mm longer than standard. Interesting vehicle too. 

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10 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Well one of you talented lot must be able to bang out some longer doors :P especially given how they seem to be a weak point of LR design it's surprising there's not more out there.

East Coast Rovers built some extended Defenders with longer front doors, they were not interested in selling doors or skins. Rocky Mountain makes aluminium door tops for Series, they would not sell me longer lengths of their extrusion to make my own.

I found someone in the UK that offered to help as they get door top extrusions run, but in the end didn’t come through.

The doors are no problem for me, but I’d much prefer a full aluminium door top. If I had the $$$ I’d get my own extrusion run and sell it in kit form.

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4 hours ago, uninformed said:

 I’d much prefer a full aluminium door top. If I had the $$$ I’d get my own extrusion run and sell it in kit form.

The door tops are relatively easy to make in aluminium, especially with your skills, if you look at page 118 on my mog axle thread you can see how I made my aluminium door tops for my lightweight, possibly not up to your standard of fabrication, but they do the job

Regards Stephen 

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I got a little more done on the tub bulkhead angle. Most holes are drilled, profiled to the bulkhead but still have to weld in the shaped flanges. 

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It was raining all afternoon so didn’t want to uncover the 110. I started extending the floor/seat base sills…

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One done, one to go. Suffered a bit of distortion welding the bottom flange on. Bowed in the vertical plane even though it was clamped to a beam. I’ll pre stress the next one. I added a few extra fixing points for the floor and seat base (mine would get dirt etc under the edges) turned out ok.

 

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8 hours ago, uninformed said:

One done, one to go. Suffered a bit of distortion welding the bottom flange on. Bowed in the vertical plane even though it was clamped to a beam. I’ll pre stress the next one. I added a few extra fixing points for the floor and seat base (mine would get dirt etc under the edges) turned out ok.

 

331C2BC7-1554-4516-9B6C-795E49EC7F50.thumb.jpeg.6b9c818c2ec7f761da0f9f70de4d10f6.jpeg
 

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wow .....

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  • 3 months later...

Very little progress here…. Had a few setbacks but such is life.

All I’ve managed is a little machine work on my LT230. Milled and bored the low range switch boss to accept a steel bush I turned up. This is so I can mount a pneumatic DCV that is activated by the Hi/Low selector shaft. It’s for another system in the vehicle. Still a lot to figure out for that but it’s a start….

Of course LR bore was not concentric to the Hi/Low shaft 😁

I fixed that…

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Bush with shoulder and internal thread. 15/32 - 32 NS was a fun one to find 🤦🏻‍♂️

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shrink fit of 0.02mm, primed with MEK and installed with 638 retaining compound 

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DCV threaded in place. 
 

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I still have to machine a “button” of precise length to extend the DCV shaft for accurate activation travel. 

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33 minutes ago, uninformed said:

Very little progress here…. Had a few setbacks but such is life.

 

Setbacks.....tell me about it ......lol

However, progress is still good no matter how little

Keep up the good work Regards Stephen

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