This mornings project

[CwazyWabbit]

1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

The guy has loosened the head off to move it in his shed so it will be removed totally and put in the back of the pickup. The mill is a bit heavier than standard as it has a vertical bed on it to house up to 3 driving heads at the same time

Regards Stephen

This sounds interesting, will we get pictures please?

[Stellaghost]

Absolutely.....!!!!!

Regards Stephen

[ped]

a bridgeport is a bit big to get in the shed shame
we have a marlowe knee mill and a generic Chinese miller driller similar to a warco plus a colchester student lathe

[Stellaghost]

18 minutes ago, ped said:

a bridgeport is a bit big to get in the shed shame
we have a marlowe knee mill and a generic Chinese miller driller similar to a warco plus a colchester student lathe

I know they are reasonably tall, so it will prove difficult installing it, probably the same as my Alfred Herbert drill, that had to be dismantled just to get through garage door, how difficult, time will tell, biggest issue is finding space for it....lol, have gone a bit crazy of late with tools

Regards Stephen

[Ed Poore]

More tomorrow's project now but we got the loader arms up out of the way this afternoon.

And yes the RR is currently legless, it's air suspension met with an angry grinder in the workshop today, bush on top is seized on so having to cut delicately through so as not to trash a £600+ strut. New bag arriving tomorrow at the local parts place so hopefully I can get the old one off without too much damage to get this back together.

Oh and more importantly investigate what the hell's happened to the Perkins engine in the JCB, I'm missing that already (well all of this week, last week didn't count because we were in Spain).

[landroversforever]

12 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

I know they are reasonably tall, so it will prove difficult installing it, probably the same as my Alfred Herbert drill, that had to be dismantled just to get through garage door, how difficult, time will tell, biggest issue is finding space for it....lol, have gone a bit crazy of late with tools

Regards Stephen

@Hybrid_From_Hell has a mill in his ‘normal’ garage and the roof beams are notched round it. 

[Ed Poore]

Surely @Stellaghost has the capabilities to lift the roof of his garage in situ. 

[CwazyWabbit]

7 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

Surely @Stellaghost has the capabilities to lift the roof of his garage in situ. 

I accidentally did that by 1/2 an inch when building my hydraulic press. The ram is a touch on the heavy side so I used its own power to lift it in position off of the press table. Turned out my measurements were a little off. 

[Ed Poore]

2 hours ago, CwazyWabbit said:

I accidentally did that by 1/2 an inch when building my hydraulic press. The ram is a touch on the heavy side so I used its own power to lift it in position off of the press table. Turned out my measurements were a little off. 

Thinking about it I did something similar lifting the last big bale of straw into the stable. Timber frames and the bale goes onto a mezzanine and I lifted off the wall plate and roof accidentally.

Slung a strap over it and pulled it back down with the JCB and put a few more nails in it.

[ped]

When we altered the shed to improve space we re roofed it and whilst it was off had the new lathe and mill craned in over the hedge to save taking them to pieces as we had done with the other mill and old lathe

[FridgeFreezer]

9 hours ago, CwazyWabbit said:

I accidentally did that by 1/2 an inch when building my hydraulic press.

I seem to remember a hundred years ago now that Tonk did very similar having built a roll-cage on his truck he reversed it out of the garage only to have the lintel lift up as the truck went down on the springs unexpectedly

[ped]

One of todays projects was to take the hitch off my sankey as the hitch lock was stuck on

I have been adding penetrating oil for a few weeks as i wanted to drag it out and see what it needed doing to get it fit fir the road after being parked up for at least 7 yrs

I'd just got all 4 bolts off when i realised it wasn't going to come out as it had to go back and up and a bright spark had welded the crane frame above it 

I resorted to landrover tool 2 after loosely fitting the bolts and with a bit of wood on the hitch lock i gave it a few smites on the top to let it know i was not amused with it 

The key was now going all the way in and the body was turning but just not enough so with a sliver of wood i wedged the pin tight to the lock body and with some jiggling it finally released the top cap  result

By the look everything from the tipping pivots through crane legs to the hand brake lever is seize up so some major tlc req

[Ed Poore]

Since I didn't trust the chinesium engine stand on a 240kg aluminium V8 there was no way in hell I was letting it near the half tonne Perkins monster.

Bits of scrap I had lying around, "carefully" designed so that the sump could come out down the bottom. What I didn't foresee was quite how heavy the sump was not how big the oil pickup was.

Slowly lowering it on bits of 2x4 meant I could wiggle it out.

[Stellaghost]

Heavy duty !!!

I like it...

Regards Stephen

[Ed Poore]

The only two things I really miss from Surrey were easy access to Bob's yard and the offcut skip at Pyramid Steel. All bar the angle came from there and in 8-10ft lengths, that's a useful length of offcut!

[Stellaghost]

19 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

The only two things I really miss from Surrey were easy access to Bob's yard and the offcut skip at Pyramid Steel. All bar the angle came from there and in 8-10ft lengths, that's a useful length of offcut!

That's definitely my kind of off cut..

I'm a great believer in the waste and treasure saying....lol

Regards Stephen

[Gazzar]

It's frustrating having to buy exactly the steel I need, knowing there's scrap out there that's getting thrown out.

[Ed Poore]

You just need to find a local fabricator and get on friendly terms with them. A quick Google shows there are a few around you.

Ironically in Surrey I had very little use for such heavy duty stuff but now I don't live there I use it a lot. A lot of the people who use the thicker wall stuff down here order it in precut lengths so they don't have the problem of scrap storage. They'll even precut the angles required. For example I thought I'd get lots of bits of I beam from a neighbour but after 10 years he's hardly filled a skip with scrap, he's going through about 100 tonnes a month in structural steel but they're all precut and all he does is weld them together and take them to site to erect the barns.

[Ed Poore]

This mornings project was making a fnerkin big puller, M30 threaded bar, 30mm plate offcut, one bearing a load of nuts and a lump of steel a friend turned down to suit the liners.

This afternoon's project has been a workout... 

Steel box to jam the engine stand against 1.5 tonnes of work bench, aluminium scaffold tube clamped to the stairs sleeving a big adjustable on one of two lock nuts on the bar to stop it rotating and then a 24" pipe wrench on the nut to pull the thread through.

The first three liners weren't actually too bad and didn't necessitate all of this faffery but the last liner (#1 piston) has finally just popped so I'm having a cold one before getting dizzy again walking around it lots of circles cranking it out. I think it's about 75 turns given its 3.5mm thread pitch and there's about 10" of liner to pull out.

 

 

[Ed Poore]

I spoke too soon, #4 was a person I'm not that keen on. Kept fighting for the first half and then realised that the threaded bar had galled up with the zinc plating being stripped off from it so the nut jammed. Cut the bar off and used the seized nut at the bottom of the puller and had just enough to finish the job. Came out easily enough after that and a bit of a rejiggle to keep things nice and straight.

I was astonished at how warm the bar got pulling the liners from the forces involved in pulling them out.

Shiny bit of steel is the stepped pulled a friend machined up for me.

[David Sparkes]

12 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

"I was astonished at how warm the bar got pulling the liners from the forces involved in pulling them out."

This suggests to me that you have become so wedded to the power of a longer bar, heavier hammer, etc, that you have overlooked the benefits of suitable lubrication on anything being used as as forcing screw.
The heat is from friction, which in turn demands more power to turn the screw, thus a galling thread etc.

I recommend EP90, often found in anywhere that works with Land Rovers. Well, older Land Rovers 🙂

Regards.

[Ed Poore]

Every four turns or so it was getting liberally doused in duck oil. Didn't think of EP90 but duck oil penetrates through tiny gaps and even that wasn't flowing as readily as it normally does through the gap between the thread and the nut.

From prior experience duck oil lubricates stuff beautifully as that's what it was designed for. WD40, for example, just evaporates off.

Also bear in mind this was just cheap M30 coarse threaded bar which on smaller stuff (M20 for example) I've managed to strip the thread with a normal spanner so doesn't take much to chew it up.

[David Sparkes]

OK, I don't have ANY experience with Duck Oil, but I do have experience with Extreme Pressure 90 as lubrication on a forcing screw thread.
Extreme Pressure is chosen because that characteristic indicates the oil is likely remain in place between the metal elements when the mechanical action will be trying to force metal to metal contact.

Typically on a Track rod splitter, and on using a threaded bar in a chassis bush removing tool.

Typically I oil the both the male and female threads as the tool is being put in place or assembled, I don't try to flow the oil into a thread already under load, although in the case of the chassis bush extractor I may oil the exposed male thread that has yet to enter the forcing nut.

Where I had a choice, such as the chassis bush extractor, I use a fine thread, I/2" UNF, NOT 12mm, as I see the finer pitch results in longer engagement area between the nut and the bar. I will also use two nuts, turned at the same time, to further increase the length of thread engaged.

Where I don't have a choice of thread, such as a bought joint splitter, I will add oil just before each use, so if I have three joints to split I will lubricate the screw three times.

Regards.

[Ed Poore]

Useful to know thanks.

To be honest I hadn't considered anything else, it was sprayed on before and during the operation. The main benefit of duck oil is it's a penetrating fluid so gets into all the little nooks and crannies, it's amazing what it will flow into and I've usually found it to be super slippery and helps greatly when it does work it's way in. I guess in this scenario it probably got squeezed out of the relevant bits. Lithium grease may well have worked better if I'd applied it. I dismissed it largely because I didn't want to get it everywhere (the nature of the beast meant the whole setup has to be completely stripped down for assembly into the next liner).

To be honest I just started on the first one gently to make sure everything was lined up, cranked it up a bit given I was expecting resistance and then a few second later there was a crack as the seal broke so I cranked it a bit more and it came fairly easily. Removed it to investigate and yup the liner was sliding out.

It was really only the last liner that put up a bit of a fight and some of that may have been a slight misalignment in everything as the box section had shifted slightly in the bandsaw as the cut progressed. I may see if I can power up my big mill to machine it flat before pulling the new ones. Although freezing them before hand (from someone who's done it before) means they slide in fairly easily.

[muzaz]

A taller nut would probably help to distribute the load further.