fearofweapons Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 It's not my knob it's my shaft! Hello! Out in the SIII yesterday enjoying the sunshine and noticed that there is a very annoying rattle coming from the gear stick/gear box. If I hold the knob there is no change. If I lightly grasp the stick itself there is some reduction of the rattle. If I firmly pull the stick against one of the gates the rattle goes away. i.e. if I am in 4th and I pull the stick to the right no more rattle - however I can't drive with one hand on the gear stick the whole time. Any ideas what is likely to be causing the rattle and, more importantly, how I might permanently fix it? many thanks, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 Assuming the rattle does come from the main gear lever, and not the Hi-Lo lever, have you checked the locating bolt that fits in the RH side of the turret? This is to locate in a slot in the ball pivot to prevent the lever pivoting around. By repute the bolt, threading into the alloy housing, has a reputation for coming loose. If so, the rattle could be a very short prelude to the bolt falling out completely. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 There is , or should be , an O ring on the ball end that goes into the selector rod blocks , book shows two variants - early S2 540354 and later 2A ( & probably3 ) FRC1387 . If you are lucky the O ring groove will still be there , if not the ball will be too loose (worn) a fit in the selector blocks . There is also the coil spring under the gear lever pivot ball , if that is broken or weak it won't help things pt.no. 219723 cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 (edited) As above, early versions had a thin groove in the ball on the end and standard O ring around the ball. Later Series 3, had a much wider green nylon sleeve and the end of the stick was made much smaller to accommodate the sleeve. The sleeve isn't available as a replacement part. It eventually wears out, falls off and jams the selectors. Been there done that. I ended up fitting an early gearstick with the O ring. The best fix, is to remove the lever, clean out the selector slots and pack well with thick grease. If you are lazy just add grease into the ends of the selector slots. Edited April 26, 2021 by simonb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearofweapons Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 Many thanks all for the suggestions - sounds like I need to get into the guys of it a little. Oh and sorry if I was not clear - it is the main gear stick not one of the smaller red / yellow selectors. Cheers, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 All of the above is correct. I replaced the o-ring a few times until I managed to fit the later type with the green band. That was better, but it did eventually split and jam the selectors, just like Simon says. My wife had to dismantle the cab floor and tunnel to sort it out as I was overseas when it happened. A PU o-ring would be a good solution, if you can find one, more resilient than the rubber or viton type LR used. It’d be handy if one of the aftermarket bush specialists or LR gearbox rebuilders like Ashcroft or Syncro would sell them, as we can’t buy a handful on special order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted April 28, 2021 Share Posted April 28, 2021 Ask Superpro; or even better, speak to Somerset Bearing Supplies -the latter seem to be able to find pretty much anything, from CV's for a Halfy to leather seals for a cider press and everything in between Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted April 28, 2021 Share Posted April 28, 2021 I fitted a Britpart s3 gear lever to my lightweight, this has a plastic bush instead of the o ring. £10 three years ago and still perfect with no rattles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 Or fit a syncro gears slick shift 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 23 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said: Or fit a syncro gears slick shift 🙂 Tempting. But while it makes operation easier and quieter, you lose one of the Series characteristics. I had a look at them before, and may again in the future. It’s not a cheap option when cutting an inch off the top of the stick and welding it into the bottom and fitting inch thick spacers to the pivot mount is relatively simp,e, if lever throw is an issue to you. It doesn’t bother me, but the rattle does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 I’ve bought a new S1 gearstick that’s been made with the pressed on anti-rattle ring. It looks good - and I’m interested to see how it fares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 19 hours ago, Anderzander said: I’ve bought a new S1 gearstick that’s been made with the pressed on anti-rattle ring. It looks good - and I’m interested to see how it fares. What part is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 It’s one made by the Radford brothers .. 80” shape but with the rattle ring https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-series-one-main-gear-lever-239925-/164771009394?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 On 4/30/2021 at 12:54 PM, Snagger said: Tempting. But while it makes operation easier and quieter, you lose one of the Series characteristics. I had a look at them before, and may again in the future. It’s not a cheap option when cutting an inch off the top of the stick and welding it into the bottom and fitting inch thick spacers to the pivot mount is relatively simple, if lever throw is an issue to you. It doesn’t bother me, but the rattle does. Yes its heavily sprung so when in the neutral position the lever is in line to go into 1st or 2nd which is what i really like and as the lever is longer i lifted the cubby box to suit which made it better for testing my arm on, the only thing i miss is the 2a style lever as its sort of a mixed 2a and 3 position and will only take an s3 knob but has to be glued in as the lever is thicker so can't use the sprung sleeve but other than that i like it 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 5 hours ago, Anderzander said: It’s one made by the Radford brothers .. 80” shape but with the rattle ring https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-series-one-main-gear-lever-239925-/164771009394?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Thanks, Interesting not bad price to remove the noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 Yes - and Radford stuff it top notch. All my chassis parts came from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 6 hours ago, Anderzander said: It’s one made by the Radford brothers .. 80” shape but with the rattle ring https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-series-one-main-gear-lever-239925-/164771009394?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Are you fitting it to a S1 or a S2? (Will it fit a S2A era gearbox?) Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 It’s going on a S2 box this time - but I believe it fits ! I think the 80” main lever is shorter and has a different bend than 86” onwards - but is otherwise the same. The Hi low lever was straight on an 80in too, slightly bent on later vehicles. So I’ll be swapping that over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 On 4/30/2021 at 2:25 PM, Anderzander said: I’ve bought a new S1 gearstick that’s been made with the pressed on anti-rattle ring. It looks good - and I’m interested to see how it fares. 15 hours ago, Anderzander said: It’s one made by the Radford brothers .. 80” shape but with the rattle ring https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-series-one-main-gear-lever-239925-/164771009394?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 It will fare very well, the one on my Lightweight is excellent, although if you have the correct BSF die to cut the s1/s2 knob thread you could’ve made yourself one exactly the same for £10; https://www.shop4autoparts.net/Vehicle-Type/Series/gearbox-series/gear-lever-rhd-frc2046/ although it’s out of stock so it might cost you an extra £3.50 from here https://www.mm-4x4.com/series-3-gear-lever-arm---frc2046-245-p.asp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Surely the point about the Radford bros product is that it contains the double bends of the S1 style, which appears similar to the S2A style. I appreciate that some of us have the equipment to introduce those bends to the straight S3 lever, so might still save money by buying a S3 lever you link to, but your comparison is a bits apples v pears, isn't it? I'm tempted to bend an S3 style to a S2A, have the correct BSF die, and even have a diagram showing the S2A bend dimensions. However I haven't actually checked whether a S3 lever is long enough to take the indirect (double bend) route, so this could be classed as a 'vapour build' 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 (edited) 24 minutes ago, David Sparkes said: Surely the point about the Radford bros product is that it contains the double bends of the S1 style, which appears similar to the S2A style. I appreciate that some of us have the equipment to introduce those bends to the straight S3 lever, so might still save money by buying a S3 lever you link to, but your comparison is a bits apples v pears, isn't it? I'm tempted to bend an S3 style to a S2A, have the correct BSF die, and even have a diagram showing the S2A bend dimensions. However I haven't actually checked whether a S3 lever is long enough to take the indirect (double bend) route, so this could be classed as a 'vapour build' 🙂 I was pointing out that if you don’t want to pay £37 extra for a second bend you have an alternative that looks to be the same or very similar stick to the above, or if you have the ability to bend one (it isn’t exactly hard) s3 stick is longer than both s1 and s2/2a. I have made many new sticks for 80” and s2 over the years by heating up and straightening new s3 sticks and rebending to correct bend and cutting thread on top. Old sticks are normally worn on the locating channel of the ball causing them to rotate and give a poor shift. Edited May 2, 2021 by oneandtwo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Thank you for the extra information (that I didn't have), it will come in useful. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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