PandaSpeedShop Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 3 hours ago, Daan said: I didn't think the tree of god was a problem; total anti climax once I saw it, just drove past without touching anything - or rolling down the hill. I was talking about the ridge with steep drops either side and very close trees on the top section. Looks like it’s a squeeze on a defender 90 never mind a disco. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 The route is a corridor so you can go off the beaten and often have to. We had to squeeze between two trees at one point, it resulted in a snapped winch line (tied it together to fine the stage, then spliced it in camp), two doors that wouldn't close anymore (bungee between to hold them shut) and quite a few more dents. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PandaSpeedShop Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 17 hours ago, miketomcat said: The route is a corridor so you can go off the beaten and often have to. We had to squeeze between two trees at one point, it resulted in a snapped winch line (tied it together to fine the stage, then spliced it in camp), two doors that wouldn't close anymore (bungee between to hold them shut) and quite a few more dents. Mike Maybe that corridor is not for me. If a defender struggles a disco will get stuck forever haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PandaSpeedShop Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 In other news my winch kit from Goodwinch has arrived and looks great. Went for a TDS-12c with a BOW2 motor and air free-spool upgrade. Can’t wait to mount it and try it out, going to need to invest in some rope extensions for Ladoga and potentially a ground anchor. Also got my new tube bender set up and ready to make another front bumper as the one I have is far too low for Ladoga. What are your thoughts on including a tube to protect the front wing and linking it to the rock slider? (Like the defender above has.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 Looking good. What are you planning in terms of battery power to back it up? The winch would have no problems pulling the car out of trouble, but it needs plenty of juice to do it. Protection bar across the wing is not a bad idea, but I would start with protecting the roof line and front screen. A wing is easily replaced, an A-pillar less so. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PandaSpeedShop Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 (edited) I want to run dual batteries with a split charge system, if anyone has any suggestions on the kit to use that would be really helpful. Do I need a second normal battery or do I need to get a leisure battery? I have been looking at the external cages, but they seem so big and heavy. I guess if you had something you can run along the trees on the roofline and A-pillar that would be a good start. @Daan do you recon its worth the extra weight? I am thinking something like the image blow except with another bar protecting the very corner of the roof and rear skylights. (shamelessly stolen off google) Edited February 9, 2022 by PandaSpeedShop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 Yes, that looks good. The A-pillar is the most important to fend of trees, further backwards, it all depends on how much you value body work. The added bonus is roll over protection, depending on how you mount it to the car. That snorkel on the picture won't last though. Ideally it needs to sit inside the cage. Daan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PandaSpeedShop Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 6 minutes ago, Daan said: Yes, that looks good. The A-pillar is the most important to fend of trees, further backwards, it all depends on how much you value body work. The added bonus is roll over protection, depending on how you mount it to the car. That snorkel on the picture won't last though. Ideally it needs to sit inside the cage. Daan Sounds good, I wonder what they are bolting it to on the b and c pillars? I guess tear into the truck and find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PandaSpeedShop Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 Has anyone has any experience with the T-Max 12v split charge system? I think I might go with one of those and another normal starter battery unless someone has better ideas. Having a battery status on show would be a good thing I recon especially if you are winching non stop. Plus the 250A relay sounds better than the other systems out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 I have a 500amp acr from blue sea on my ibex. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 Are you replacing the existing battery as well? If you buy 2 identical batteries from the same batch, running them in parallel is the easy option. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PandaSpeedShop Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 27 minutes ago, Daan said: Are you replacing the existing battery as well? If you buy 2 identical batteries from the same batch, running them in parallel is the easy option. Daan Is this avoiding a split charge system altogether? Sorry if I am asking stupid questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 In 45 I had two matched battery's and a split charge diode. The ibex I have now has the aforementioned blue sea acr and a pair of 110 amp varta AGM stop start battery's. The acr is set up to link automatically when the start battery rises above 12.7v but manually connects both battery's when the winch is turned on. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 1 hour ago, PandaSpeedShop said: Is this avoiding a split charge system altogether? Sorry if I am asking stupid questions. It does. I have no experience with this myself, but know of people doing it. I only run a standard single battery as I run a PTO winch at the front. There are no stupid questions BTW, just stupid answers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PandaSpeedShop Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 So, a bit of an update. Work has started on the winch bumper to mount the Goodwinch which is much bigger than my current Chinese special. Progress pics will be coming up when I have something meaningful to show. T-Max split charge system has been delivered, ARB air supply kit ha also turned up (excuse the loud carpet) all the parts to make the air box and snorkel have been ordered. So work on that will start next week hopefully, at least it’s not weather dependant. I can sit in the garage and weld aluminium all day, regardless of the storm outside. Took all the measurements for the external “roll cage” off to source parts on Monday. Need to get the big fabrication projects out of the way while I wait for the mechanical parts to turn up. Got a slight issue, Ashcroft have not got any 300M rear shafts and their front 300M shaft + CV kit is also out of stock. Anyone have another supplier that maybe has these parts on the shelf or is able to fab up 300m components? @Hybrid_From_Hell any news on the diffs? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 300m material seems to be an issue at the moment in the uk for availability, have been chatting with Blackbird in regards to my front axle they are building & it looks like t could be a struggle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 Does devon 4x4 have stock? https://www.devon4x4.com/heavy-duty-cv-joint-late-pai-60070.html Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PandaSpeedShop Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 56 minutes ago, Daan said: Does devon 4x4 have stock? https://www.devon4x4.com/heavy-duty-cv-joint-late-pai-60070.html Daan This is for the 4340 shafts I believe, it may come to that as I will need better than stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 I doubt they will break with 33" tyres. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PandaSpeedShop Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 I guess if you were to go 300m anywhere it would be the rear. I’ll get them 4340 for the front, only option over the weak standard shaft and cv. With my time constraints I need to get everything around me and put it all together ASAP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PandaSpeedShop Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 2 hours ago, Daan said: I doubt they will break with 33" tyres. Daan Got them ordered, thanks for the link. I need to hold out for the 300M rear tough. Worst case I will have 2WD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 Regarding batteries, split charges systems are great but not the most reliable in wet conditions in my opinion. In the MR trucks I installed Durite Votage sensitivity Relays which are sealed so good in "moist" conditions. Personally in my 90 I have a standard battery and a deep cell leasure battery, connected up to a blue sea 3 way manual switch, so I can switch to battery 1, 2 or both. Run like that for best part of 10 years and I just manually switch between batteries to keep topped up, when using in anger winching etc. I switch to "both" works a treat and pretty bomber for reliability. I have volt meter so can check voltage of the battery that's online, nothing fancy but is reliable. The switch is the most compact I could find on the market. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-Battery-Selector-Switch-Isolator-Disconnect-for-Marine-Boat-Vehicle-12-24V-/373690119469?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 We had stock (24 spline disco) shafts and cv's up front and a borrowed ARB and HD shafts in the rear. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 Personally I would aim for two of the most reliable batteries you can afford. From what I've heard Optimas have gone downhill since their glory days, Hawker Odyssey are lovely but ridiculous money, I run Varta/Bosch AGM Stop-start batteries on TSD's recommendation, although I don't have an electric winch - they are designed for modern cars that stop & re-start at every junction so made to take some abuse, they're fitted to a lot of stuff OEM and available in motor factors so the price can be pretty competitive. A true leisure battery is not going to enjoy winching currents or high charge rates - BTW I assume your TD5 has a 100A or higher alternator and it's in good fettle? I'd also run a GOOD split-charge, which is not the same as an expensive one. A cheap voltage-sensitive relay linked to a really good quality and sealed high-current relay/contactor is pretty robust, simple, can be over-ridden easily (you can add a dashboard switch to force it on/off if you must) and means a fault on one side doesn't kill both batteries and leave you stranded. Again, I run a cheap voltage-sensitive 100A split-charge, there's also 140A versions but I'd consider that a bit low for a winch-equipped truck. Given your truck needs volts to stay running, you need to be a bit more aware of that in your planning. I'm not saying you should carry a spare alternator in stage, but if there's room in the service truck for one - or even just a brush pack and a pair of bearings, that may be a plan. Any old voltmeter on the dash is fine, you don't need supreme accuracy you just need to see that stuff is charging up (or not). On the roll cage etc. I would be mindful of the details - like how Daan noticed the poor snorkel position in your picture - and of getting carried away adding tubes all over the place to protect things that don't really matter. It's very easy to add weight and complexity to a build, the real skill is in seeing how much you can remove. If he's paying attention @dirtydiesel is the man for roll cage advice, he's been to Ladoga a couple of times and knows the score. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 16 hours ago, PandaSpeedShop said: Got them ordered, thanks for the link. I need to hold out for the 300M rear tough. Worst case I will have 2WD Have you got a difflock transfer box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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