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3D Printed version of Nakatanenga Defender Wing Top Box


PolarBlair

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26 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

Ah sorry I thought you were on about isolating the battery rather than just the winch.

Ah, that makes more sense . In that case you're quite right! Would not have been a very efficient way of doing things 😆 

I doubt it will be much of a problem where I live but I've heard stories of delinquents running the cable over the top of the truck to the tow bar and turning it on 😡 

Should give a little bit more peace of mind when parking in town anyway.

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2 hours ago, PolarBlair said:

 

I doubt it will be much of a problem where I live but I've heard stories of delinquents running the cable over the top of the truck to the tow bar and turning it on 😡 

 

i have to say this is one of those urban legends that seems to float about but with very little actual evidence of it happening,

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4 minutes ago, RedLineMike said:

i have to say this is one of those urban legends that seems to float about but with very little actual evidence of it happening,

A quick search online yielded nothing apart from a video of someone doing it on purpose. Not sure how the legend morphed into the car being cut in half though 🤣

 

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4 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

There's two reasons to put an isolator in:

- To stop nefarious or accidental use

- To stop your truck from burning to the ground by shorting the feed wire to the chassis

The second reason is why you would normally put the isolator right next to the battery -for this reason alone putting it in the wing is not ideal as you have a fat wire that you can't isolate should the worst happen.

Not saying your idea is rubbish! Honest! But it doesn't do half of what an isolator is designed to, if you can live with that then fine.

 

The other way is to have an isolating solenoid in the battery box, that is fed by a switch in the cab, probably from ignition live, so you can only use the winch with a key in the ignition, and the switch in a certain place. You can have the wing top isolator as well, but little use for it at this point.

 

Would a megafuse in the battery box not fix this? Between the main battery, leisure battery, VSR and the isolator for the leisure battery I'm extremely tight on space in there.

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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:

Not really, a stalled winch could draw 400A, a 400A fuse would be about as big as an isolator.

They aren't very big, e.g.: 

Albright Winch Isolator SU280-1066P (red-winches.com)

That's a fair bit bigger than a 500A mega fuse including the case. I'm not sure if the TD5 has a main battery fuse but they are standard on Pumas and most cars now to stop them burning to the ground. Can't see why this would be any different?

I'm not saying you're wrong. I'm just trying to understand.

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As for space, this all barely fit while still leaving just enough wiggle room to pull the batteries out without disassembling something.

The mega fuse including holder would have just enough clearance to sit on top of the battery like the one I have inline to the leisure battery isolator.

 

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Just now, PolarBlair said:

I'm not sure if the TD5 has a main battery fuse but they are standard on Pumas and most cars now to stop them burning to the ground.

Correct, but only to the vehicle electrics normally, the starter is normally unfused.

There looks like there would be room next to the Durite...

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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:

Correct, but only to the vehicle electrics normally, the starter is normally unfused.

There looks like there would be room next to the Durite...

Not on the puma apparently. Vehicle electrics are taken directly from the battery terminal whereas the mega fuse is meant to isolate the battery from the starter motor and alternator.

https://www.lrworkshop.com/electrics/defender-2007/fuse-boxes-earths-and-headers

The winch I have is rated at max 410A max which it will likely never see, so 400A mega fuse would be sufficient. From what I understand they only blow when they see twice their rating so it should be fine even at 410A for a while. Looking online a lot of guys run remote batteries and use either megafuses or two 200A breakers in parallel for fast reset.

Breakers I'm less keen on as fuses are faster and it's not difficult to carry a box of spares just incase.

That spot next to the VSR is the only thing that lets me get the batteries back out as I have the older style tray which is really only meant for 1. But I'll make myself a little mockup box and see if it fits.

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11 hours ago, PolarBlair said:

That spot next to the VSR is the only thing that lets me get the batteries back out as I have the older style tray which is really only meant for 1. But I'll make myself a little mockup box and see if it fits.

Depends on how much work you wanted but if you swap the electrics around so that the VSR etc are on the inner side of the box then there's enough space for 2x 019 batteries which I think are bigger than what you've got there. I packed out the bottom of my 300Tdi tray (handy for running cables under the batteries) and had an auxiliary fuse and VSR wedged (never actually got around to mounting them) on the inner side. You could then lift the rear end of both batteries to slide them in and out. The way you have them mounted at the moment means you have to slide the vehicle battery over to get it out past the lip by the looks of it. Just a thought.

I know the two 019 batteries fit because I had that for ages and have them in the current setup but that's a custom seat box to take the L322 seats (ironically smaller battery box but was made to measure).

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22 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

Depends on how much work you wanted but if you swap the electrics around so that the VSR etc are on the inner side of the box then there's enough space for 2x 019 batteries which I think are bigger than what you've got there. I packed out the bottom of my 300Tdi tray (handy for running cables under the batteries) and had an auxiliary fuse and VSR wedged (never actually got around to mounting them) on the inner side. You could then lift the rear end of both batteries to slide them in and out. The way you have them mounted at the moment means you have to slide the vehicle battery over to get it out past the lip by the looks of it. Just a thought.

I know the two 019 batteries fit because I had that for ages and have them in the current setup but that's a custom seat box to take the L322 seats (ironically smaller battery box but was made to measure).

Do you mean rotating the batteries by 90 degrees? The way they're currently sat was the only way I could get both in even before the rest of the cables, fuses and VSR went in. 

A pic of your setup would be really handy.

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3 hours ago, PolarBlair said:

Do you mean rotating the batteries by 90 degrees? The way they're currently sat was the only way I could get both in even before the rest of the cables, fuses and VSR went in. 

A pic of your setup would be really handy.

No same orientation but move the VSRs etc the other side of both batteries.

My setup won't be relevant at all anymore since it's a completely custom seat box - plus it's a mess...

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Made a test print with PLA.

Realised some redesigning may be required as currently the purple and pink part would need to be assembled in situ. If glued together as I previously planned, there probably won't be enough space to tilt it into the opening from below the wing.

I originally did this so the raised lip would be integral to the housing but realise now both parts will need to sit separately above and below the wing with a gasket in between.

Not as good for waterproofing but needs must.

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27 minutes ago, Peaklander said:

Wow. I can only sit here and be amazed.

Exactly. Once the technology to do this in steel is at a consumer level, so much will change....

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7 hours ago, Gazzar said:

Exactly. Once the technology to do this in steel is at a consumer level, so much will change....

Ive looked longingly at sinterit ever since they teased their first consumer grade machine. They are a fraction of what they cost even 10 years ago but you still need pretty deep pockets. One day Rodney...

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Cheers for the encouragement guys!

Only 3 weeks left and I'll have my truck back to try out the mock-up.

Couple more parts printed - barrel for the tubular lock, screw cap, plus the tether so the cap doesn't go AWOL.

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Somehow I managed to make the screw cap a left hand thread. Another security layer perhaps? I gave it to the wife and she just assumed it was the knob to twist the latch open and that it must be locked 😅

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Amazing, and amazing technology. Hugely impressed.

 

@PolarBlairWhen we get to the stage we can print power cells and batteries, I think that the whole world will change. Not to mention pharmaceuticals, but that may not be so good.

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To make full use of the isolator I've chosen I ideally need a Y split from the 50mmlive so the box has two cables going in at one end and two coming out at the other (all positive), 4no total posts on the isolator.

I assume 2no. 25mmcable in parallel = 1no. 50mmcable but not sure. I could go to 2no. 35mmin parallel to be sure.

The SB350 Anderson connector is rated up to 500A and for ease of installation or to sell this as a complete unit, I'm tempted to crimp on a couple of anderson connectors either side of the box. It would allow someone to fully assemble the box on their worktop, take it out to the truck, screw it in and plug in the two connectors. With clearance being so tight you wont be able to get at the posts on the isolator from below or above once its fitted.

I know this will add some resistance or voltage drops but I would imagine this would be negligable with genuine connnectors suitably sized and 50mm2 cable?

 

 

Edited by PolarBlair
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  • 1 month later...

Truck is back from the garage with it's new alarm. Remote start is going to be pretty sweet on colder mornings 😁

Test fit went well although it does sit a bit proud. I've already reduced this a bit on the model. The lid is also sitting on top of the plastic inserts for the screws of the existing cover so should lower further once removed.

Nearly 10mm clearance to the wheel arch underneath but I need to get hold of the isolator to test assembly. Ideally I don't want to have to do any of the wiring with the box fitted.

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I may have to relocate the glands to exit out of the side rather than the rear. Another option is to keep both locations and have drill locations marked.

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Good clearance all round. I'll probably increase the thickness of the upstand or radius the base for extra rigidity.

Also found a free 10mm long reach snap on spanner when I removed the wing top cover. It made the 3.5hr journey from the garage back home without being rattled loose.

I would give it back but I had to wire my heated seats back in myself after I found one of the cables cut! Im calling that fair payment for my time.

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