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Series 2 body on 110 chassis with Disco V8/auto.


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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Can I be surely not the first to request that @steve b do a build thread or something on such a unique truck!

On the oil filter - the slimmest possible way on earlier front covers is the replacement pump housing:

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/rover-v8-oil-pump-cover-m-v8-cover

Which removes a big chunk, however it will foul the cross-bolts on a 4.0 or 4.6 (ask me how I know). There's Mocal and Flotec variants, I think I had the Flotec, the Mocal *might* work but I'd be very careful - this thread seems to suggest it can be bolted on but only just:

https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=75708#p75708

:mellow: you've asked before , I need to do a deep search of the house and find the build photo's which are all pre-digital and somewhere in my large collection of roll film prints , then copy with the DLSR and then I'll have something to show of the build . 

As @Stellaghost can confirm it's looking a bit untouched at the moment waiting for me to have time to sort out gearbox and transfer box plus a few other things....

It may have been a mistake to buy a temporary car when it failed....

Steve

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7 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Can I be surely not the first to request that @steve b do a build thread or something on such a unique truck!

On the oil filter - the slimmest possible way on earlier front covers is the replacement pump housing:

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/rover-v8-oil-pump-cover-m-v8-cover

Which removes a big chunk, however it will foul the cross-bolts on a 4.0 or 4.6 (ask me how I know). There's Mocal and Flotec variants, I think I had the Flotec, the Mocal *might* work but I'd be very careful - this thread seems to suggest it can be bolted on but only just:

https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=75708#p75708

Mine's got the oil pump on the crank!

Been reading that some peeps have cut/welded the oil filter area then used the cooler ports for cooling and a remote filter....

See how I go, putting the engine as high up and far back as possible to avoid diff/filter action.

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Good project. I have had a fair amount of re-engineering to do to fit an intercooler between the front panel and the LHD steering box:

large.IMG_8319.JPG.b62d156a1d7e75171e1b4

I did cheat in the end, and moved the front panel 1" forward, and added an inch to the back of the bonnet.

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Cheers!

Originality is catching on down under, just not at my house! 🤪

Going to look old (front on anyway) 

Rivet counters nightmare....🤣

Don't get me started on the explosion of shiny restored Series Rovers with fecking Tesla motors in them...🤮 

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Engine looks a bit forward, I would suggest moving it backward, as there is plenty of space to the bulkhead. The series land rovers have the engine sitting behind the front axle, which I have mimicked on mine 

by putting the engine as close to the bulkhead as possible.

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100%.

It's going at least 100mm back.

Need to remove/relocate middle crossmember (hand brake clearance)

Have to chop up my freshly restored bulkhead to clearance headers anyway.☹️

Been waiting to get to this exact stage before committing to the "cut"...

As soon as bulkhead is chopped and crossmember is gone I can stuff the engine/'box as far back as possible and fab some mounts. 

@Daan I did say this earlier, but you weren't paying attention....🤪🙃

Cheers

Dave

 

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Even with the engine 100mm back my oil filter housing will be right above the diff housing....

I've looked at many Series with V8s and they somehow have way more room than a Defender set up? 

The distance between bulkhead and diff is bigger? 

Moving the engine as high as possible as well to minimise potential contact.

A remote oil filter unit is ordered from MLR in the UK.

Cheers

Dave

Edited by TD5toV8110
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On 10/5/2023 at 2:27 PM, TD5toV8110 said:

Cheers!

Originality is catching on down under, just not at my house! 🤪

Going to look old (front on anyway) 

Rivet counters nightmare....🤣

Don't get me started on the explosion of shiny restored Series Rovers with fecking Tesla motors in them...🤮 

I follow Dave Budge’s work (as well as several others who do EV conversions) as it is interesting and, as much as I think the batteries are still lethal and the cars impractical, I try to keep as open a mind as I can.  Their quality is fantastic, but they do lose a lot of the vehicles’ character in those conversions, and the prices are, well…  

 

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Progress (sort of)😍

Splashed out and bought a pair of NOS front wing panels!🤑

I can make a good set of wings with S3 sides, S2 tops, and new fronts!

But... The seller sent me two drivers side panels!☹️

He's going fix it, it's not like I'm in a hurry! 🤪

S2 engine is gone. Holden engine sold twice, but both no show...😠

Sold the S3 engine to a mate. 👍

Cheers

Dave

 

IMG_3708.JPG

IMG_3706.JPG

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Just to share some engine position measurements:

engine_space.jpg 2020-03-23_12-26-31.jpg

My V8 from crank nose to back of breakfast panel, but yes I still have a remote oil filter as it was too close for comfort.

Engine further back & lower down for that improved weight distribution & off-road balance not to mention race-car like handling ;)

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Good timing there Mr Freezer.

It is that engine to diff gap I don't have. (even after I move it back 100mm)

I've looked at hundreds of V8's in Series vehicles.

They all seem to have more room than me.

Got tape measure out yesterday.

A Series diff/wheel centre is about 3" farther forward than my 110 ....😬

I wasn't very precise, just eyeballed the wheel centres back to the bulkhead. 

25 1/2 inches for the 110, 28 1/2 on the Series. (I did inches just because.) 

I can make it work, just got 3" less to play with!

Cheers

Dave

 

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As I said, I've got a remote filter on mine anyway as it was more than close enough for comfort, and the 127 which is a factory V8 really wants a remote filter since I put the 4.6 in, another location photo for reference:

IMG_2989.JPG

 

The axle hasn't smacked the filter yet but it's more a function of overly stiff front springs than anything!

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Here you go Dave,

My rear cross member is 46~47mm below the load bearing points. My tub rear mounting angle has a 13mm gap from top of cross member and bottom edge of angle. This AM angle is a touch bigger than the old Series mounting angle. 32mm vs 29mm.

 

IMG_0370.thumb.jpeg.2edc8bc9ebe5c06bf9ab9ed013468713.jpeg

 

And I found this in my files, after the fact for myself of course lol…

 

ScreenShot2023-10-24at9_10_14pm.png.25f348c4e990c450a742e73209744332.png

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  • 4 weeks later...

No real progress.

Been working on neighbors Rangie. (full brake system rebuild, front axle/diff rebuild, and random other jobs)

This weekend start prepping to pour new concrete slab (bigger shed!)

Got remote oil filter parts.

Now have both front wing panels.

Have to disassemble 3 pairs of wings to make one good pair...

Cheers

Dave

IMG_3746.JPG

IMG_3747.JPG

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