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Any tips on how to do this nut up?


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19j 2.5 Turbo Diesel 1989 Ninety.

Oil return from the turbo. We've had the head off to replace a cracked piston and do the head gasket. Also took the opportunity to replace the 3 piece return hose (2 metal bits and a rubber joining hose) as it always leaked with a one piece item from a Tdi. Access is terrible and it still has a slight weep on this nut at the top, but you can't get a spanner in there and turn it. Thinking of cutting open a ring spanner and/or shaving down the sides of an open ended spanner. But thought I'd ask if there was any other options before doing this. Thanks.

IMG_2501.thumb.jpeg.3673b618fa43998c2e796c23da9529a7.jpegIMG_2491.thumb.jpeg.aa42ce1362d7934cc5fd28cea206c75f.jpeg

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49 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said:

19j 2.5 Turbo Diesel 1989 Ninety.

Oil return from the turbo. We've had the head off to replace a cracked piston and do the head gasket. Also took the opportunity to replace the 3 piece return hose (2 metal bits and a rubber joining hose) as it always leaked with a one piece item from a Tdi. Access is terrible and it still has a slight weep on this nut at the top, but you can't get a spanner in there and turn it. Thinking of cutting open a ring spanner and/or shaving down the sides of an open ended spanner. But thought I'd ask if there was any other options before doing this. Thanks.

IMG_2501.thumb.jpeg.3673b618fa43998c2e796c23da9529a7.jpegIMG_2491.thumb.jpeg.aa42ce1362d7934cc5fd28cea206c75f.jpeg

 

US PRO Industrial 10pc 3/8" dr Crowfoot Crowsfeet Crows Foot Spanner Wrench Set 2054

Can you not get in with a crows foot spanner...

Regards Stephen

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Yes, a cross foot might do it. I know the 'cheaper' versions normally look like brake pipe spanners, going around the extra corner. These ones seem to be quite chunky and don't fit into small areas. The more expensive ones, say Snap-On are a bit thinner and can get into smaller gaps but also have the 3/8th square offset at an angle to the spanner side, so that if you flip it over you get a different angle, must be like 30/60 degrees. I found this useful on injector pipes.

This was the one I bought, see what I mean about the angles:

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Flank-Drive-Flare-Nut%2C-6-Point%2C-mm/3-8"-Drive-6-Point-Metric-17-mm-Flank-Drive-Flare-Nut-Crowfoot-Wrench/FRHM17

You could try a lambda style socket as it has a slot down the side to get over the pipe/cable.

Steve

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It is an absolute pain to tighten, a crows foot is best but still not straightforward in my experience. For next time... I found that the best way was to put the manifolds onto the head before refitting as tightening that nut up is far easier with the head off. I used an engine hoist to lower the head back down as it is a heavy lump with the manifolds inplace. You do of course then have the head ache of tightening the other end of the line to the block, but that one is easier.

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I found a cut open ring spanner typically loses too much strength, so doesn't work if you really need to tighten something. The crow foots are a good suggestions, I've been thinking about getting a set for some time.

Something like this would be perfect: image.jpeg.e3bb5933b4a486e34f4c69b3ff387f30.jpeg

Advertised as sockets for injectors and oil pipes. 😉 I'd go for a 6-point and not a 12-point to reduce the risk of rounding the nut.

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Thanks for the tips.

I did try and order an open ended ring spanner, but it turned out to be the wrong size and incorrectly listed. :(

Order this last night, due for delivery today.

Screenshot2023-10-26at10_07_07am.png.ada0133f69e5d10debcace26cecc9197.png

 

Also had a rummage through the tools last night and found I have a large enough flare nut spanner, so I'll give them both a try after work tonight. Fingers crossed I can nip it up enough.

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2 hours ago, Escape said:

I found a cut open ring spanner typically loses too much strength, so doesn't work if you really need to tighten something. The crow foots are a good suggestions, I've been thinking about getting a set for some time.

Something like this would be perfect: image.jpeg.e3bb5933b4a486e34f4c69b3ff387f30.jpeg

Advertised as sockets for injectors and oil pipes. 😉 I'd go for a 6-point and not a 12-point to reduce the risk of rounding the nut.

These look good, but I don't understand how they would fit in the tight space on a 19J engine oil return as per the OP's pictures?

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8 hours ago, Escape said:

I found a cut open ring spanner typically loses too much strength, so doesn't work if you really need to tighten something. The crow foots are a good suggestions, I've been thinking about getting a set for some time.

Something like this would be perfect: image.jpeg.e3bb5933b4a486e34f4c69b3ff387f30.jpeg

Advertised as sockets for injectors and oil pipes. 😉 I'd go for a 6-point and not a 12-point to reduce the risk of rounding the nut.

I like those, what a good idea, got to get me some of them

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Did you, I'm forever more surprised with the stuff from there, got a torque wrench from there a year or so ago now in a panic one Sunday morning after  my replacement one from sealey collapsed again, I can't fault it, and an apparent lifetime guarantee, a far cry from puncture kits and BMX and Grifters I know, thanks Stephen 

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20 hours ago, monkie said:

These look good, but I don't understand how they would fit in the tight space on a 19J engine oil return as per the OP's pictures?

You're right, they wouldn't fit the return at the bottom, they're more aimed at fittings like the feed line on top.

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15 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

If you took the feed pipe off the top would you not get at it ? 

Its not the feed pipe as such, more that there isn't physical room for a normal spanner head to turn in the space provided. You also end up with the spanner jammed up against the turbo outlet or something else that doesn't move. However I'm pleased to report that a flare nut spanner fitted perfectly and was the tool for the job, providing you have a 22mm one.

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