Mutley Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 Hi guys and gals, It's been a while since i've posted and been on here which generally means all is well!?!......... So as i'm here, guess what???....... Yesterday after having been out in the Landy (about a 6 mile trip), i parked up for 30mins and when i came back to it i noticed a reddish pool of liquid under the front of the Landy and fluid dripping from the front near side!?! After lifting the bonnet and tracing the flow of fluid best i could, it appears to be coming from the WATER PUMP!?!....... So my question is, is it Water pump Fail???...... Or GASKET fail???....... Will be replacing BOTH as a matter of course. My other question is what has caused the fail? Is it an age thing or do i need to be checking other areas too??? This is a 1995 DEFENDER 90 "M" Reg 300Tdi Any advice on Removal and renewal of Water Pump any pros and cons would be appreciated. Cheers all, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 Is it coolant or oil? Colour and location would be steering fluid (ATF). You can look up and see the pipe from the pump. If there’s a leak it drips off curve of the pipe. Your coolant should really be blue. If it is water then perhaps you use orange additive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 the waterpump bearing and the internal seal is prone to wear as a matter of age and usage that is normal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted October 29, 2023 Author Share Posted October 29, 2023 @Peaklander This has always had the PINK coolant and reason for this diagnosis is as said, tracing fluid to water pump area plus when checking coolant bottle level, the level of coolant has dropped significantly. @Sigi_H Yeah pretty much figured/hope that is the case. NEVER understand when our Landys start feeling rough...... WHY we can't just give it a spoonful of CODLIVER OIL and an ASPRIN!?!....GOD life's Sooooo UNFAIR!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 Your coolant should really be blue. If it is water then perhaps you use orange additive. As above. ☝️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 Modern pink is a direct replacement for blue. That said, I prefer blue, easier to see when needing a change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fmmv Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 Get yourself a set of new waterpump bolts, the old ones tend to corrode. I smear the shafts with Duralac which seems to help. Maybe replace the P gasket too while its apart, very little extra effort. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted October 29, 2023 Author Share Posted October 29, 2023 @fmmv Yep ALWAYS figure NEW Bolts whenever renewing anything! Learnt that lesson early on when working on the Landy!?! Saves soooo much time and heart ache! Coolant colour....Pink, Orange, Reddish!?!........Think we are all in the same field!?! Maybe wrong (and it has been known!?! My wife tells me often!!!), but i thought a while back, a few years back it was said that either colour coolant Pink OR Blue could be used in the 300Tdi??? This one was using PINK coolant when i got it some 15 years ago and has always used Pink coolant since without issue??? Oh and thanks for the replies so far guys, all appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 4 hours ago, Mutley said: WHY we can't just give it a spoonful of CODLIVER OIL and an ASPRIN!?!.... Just give it a try in the radiator. I allways wanted to know, if it helps 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted October 29, 2023 Author Share Posted October 29, 2023 28 minutes ago, Sigi_H said: Just give it a try in the radiator. I allways wanted to know, if it helps 😁 I had been doing this every 6 months for the last 8 years!..... But i have just been informed by my local GP (Garage Person) this only works if it's running a HIGH TEMREATURE!?! 😕 For Rusty bits, split Pipes and cracked Exhaust a PLASTER will suffice!?!........Broken bits nearly always require SURGERY!?! So NOW we KNOW!?! 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted October 30, 2023 Share Posted October 30, 2023 Look at installing a low coolant alarm. Not really that expensive and relatively easy to do. I fitted the range rover cap type https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173477561583?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Mb6XBbaERje&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=EC2NqmK2QMW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It's easy to cook the 300tdi via coolant loss because of the high water pump position. Apparently your engine will be toast before your temperature gauge indicates a problem. Mine has saved me once already (sprung a leek on radiator). 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted October 30, 2023 Share Posted October 30, 2023 (edited) I added this low coolant alarm to my OneTen and feel a lot saver. It even indicates sloshing in the tank and shows in this way, that it still works. But I had to invert the signal with a relais for a light bulb. The contact in the cap is normally closed, which means the light will be on, when the level is ok. It will work with LED, because the contact can short circuit the LED without harming the serial resistor for the LED. Edited October 30, 2023 by Sigi_H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted October 30, 2023 Author Share Posted October 30, 2023 2 hours ago, Mossberg said: Look at installing a low coolant alarm. Not really that expensive and relatively easy to do. I fitted the range rover cap type https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173477561583?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Mb6XBbaERje&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=EC2NqmK2QMW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It's easy to cook the 300tdi via coolant loss because of the high water pump position. Apparently your engine will be toast before your temperature gauge indicates a problem. @Mossberg You take them NASTY words out'a ya mouth!?!.......You DON'T think IT!!!.....You DON'T say IT!!!.......It's NOT true.....It NEVER happens!!!..... Are we CLEAR!?! 🙉🙈🙊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted October 30, 2023 Share Posted October 30, 2023 On 10/29/2023 at 7:55 AM, Mutley said: Hi guys and gals, It's been a while since i've posted and been on here which generally means all is well!?!......... So as i'm here, guess what???....... Yesterday after having been out in the Landy (about a 6 mile trip), i parked up for 30mins and when i came back to it i noticed a reddish pool of liquid under the front of the Landy and fluid dripping from the front near side!?! After lifting the bonnet and tracing the flow of fluid best i could, it appears to be coming from the WATER PUMP!?!....... So my question is, is it Water pump Fail???...... Or GASKET fail???....... Will be replacing BOTH as a matter of course. My other question is what has caused the fail? Is it an age thing or do i need to be checking other areas too??? This is a 1995 DEFENDER 90 "M" Reg 300Tdi Any advice on Removal and renewal of Water Pump any pros and cons would be appreciated. Cheers all, Andy Also look at where the aluminium housing that hold the power steering pump/alternator etc bolts to the engine block at the top near the head. The joint there often leaks. It's known as the P gasket - look on line/search the forum, plenty of information available on how to fix. Replacing the water pump requires the gasket to be changed. A new pump usually comes with a new gasket. If it's just the water pump gasket, then change the pump as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted October 31, 2023 Author Share Posted October 31, 2023 @simonb Having ordered ALL the parts to change the Water Pump ie Pump, Gasket and the various Bolts ready to hand over to my garage man (would normally do it myself, but due to recovering from a motorbike accident involving me breaking several ribs, chest bone, a vertebrae and my right wrist! My wife WONT let me work on the motor!?!). This morning i went to have an inspection of just where the coolant was leaking from, and it would appear it IS coming from the P Gasket area!?! Luckily i ordered this particular item with the rest of the bits. So hopefully all bases are covered (but it's a Land Rover so you just know it wont be)!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted November 1, 2023 Share Posted November 1, 2023 I also had a leak once, but only the screws were loose. Tighten, tight. Now I have a spare pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted November 3, 2023 Author Share Posted November 3, 2023 Well spent this morning draining the coolant and striping away hoses, alternator and steering pump and got down to the x3 dreaded long bolts on the water pump (have heard some HORROR stories about these being seized and snapping) that hold the casing!?! Well ALL 3 cracked like PART POPPERS!!! Huge sigh of relief! So it turned out to be an easy off for ONCE!?! Anyway it was obvious that yes the "P" Gasket had failed due to age at a guess and more so with it being the old paper type. Replacement bits Water Pump with Gasket, P Gasket and new bolts are being delivered today about 12:30ish. So I can relax now and take my time over the weekend if need be? Only because the right hand and wrist ache like a B1tch as it's only a couple of weeks out of plaster and no where near the movement and flex it should have!?! So the rest of the day might involve popping pain killers like tic tacs!?! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fmmv Posted November 3, 2023 Share Posted November 3, 2023 The advice on here is to use a snidge of silicon on the P gasket, esp as the aluminium may have corroded slightly. Sounds like you have it under control! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted November 4, 2023 Author Share Posted November 4, 2023 @fmmv yeah going to use some Hylomar Blue on the gaskets, as for all gasket surfaces, they are in perfect condition!?! Which was a nice bonus! Have to say though, removing the old gasket for the water pump off the casing was an absolute pain! Took about an hour of careful scraping with a Stanley blade, same with the P gasket face on the block! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 (edited) Just grease all the surfaces with a very thin film and it will come of easy Edited November 4, 2023 by Sigi_H 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 My choice too, if the mating surfaces are good. It will avoid the possibility of sealant squeezing into the pump void and causing any issues there or detaching and blocking a radiator or other small passageway, as well as making future removal far easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 5, 2023 Share Posted November 5, 2023 I did mine with grease and anti seize on the long bolts. Do be careful with your wrist though - it’s so easy to over work them when they are healing - and then end up either setting it back or even getting a permanent problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted November 5, 2023 Author Share Posted November 5, 2023 Yeah was thinking I should go with the GREASE as this is how I've always done it. Think I was having a Blonde moment and again good call guys on the Anti Seize, in this case it will be copper slip. @Anderzander thanks for the advice on the wrist. It won't let me over work it at the moment as the ache and pain get too much and can't work through it! It's frustratingly slow at gaining any progress plus me being impatient doesn't help!?!...Oh and good to see you're still alive and kicking, it's been a while I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted November 9, 2023 Author Share Posted November 9, 2023 Well I finally managed to get everything back together!?! New P Gasket, New Water Pump and as an added bonus I put on a New bottom hose (PCH119060), the one with individual hose joints and clips. Also while I was at it I did flush the coolant system. As someone made a comment earlier about this having red antifreeze/coolant and it should be blue!?! Decided to check up on this (was pretty sure I had been using the correct coolant but now doubt had set in!?!)....... So I found a couple of things, one being the Colour means nothing, zip, nill, nadda! Manufacturers choose to use whatever colour for their product! The second thing I found which is probably more relevant and important is the type of coolant? From what I found is that 300Tdi engines up to 1999 use Ethylene Glycol and Engines after 1999 need Ethylene Glycol with OAT (Organic Acid Technology). My Defender being a 1995 year engine, I went with the straight Ethylene Glycol and coloured BLUE! Just so i could be in the GANG! 😊 Finally, started her up checked for leaks, all good! Took it for a spin to get up to temperature, came back rechecked for leaks, again all good and heaters worked fine so no sign of air lock. Check on coolant level, needed topping up by half a litre and we're good to go! Thanks for all the help and advice with this guys, cheers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted November 9, 2023 Share Posted November 9, 2023 I was in a similar dilemma when I did mine (I changed my water pump when I did my cambelt change, plus leaking rad). As I was doing that, and the vehicle was relatively new to me, I decided to do a flush and coolant change. I wanted to use the OAT coolant due to the extended lifespan compared to the ethylene glycol, but went the cautious route too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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