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Buying Defender for £3K


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Hi all,

Am new to this forum and to landies (well owning one anyway) i know you experienced guys get bored with these type of threads but i just wanted to ask for £3k what is my best options? Looking 200tdi ish good durable engine?? What are your thoughts. I am looking for a play thing really for weekends.

Many thanks for you help. :D:D:D

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Guest dew110CSW

£3000 could easily get you a Nice TD 90/110, or a 2.5 NAD.

Many fear these engines but if you can find one that's been well looked after they are a good purchase. I got mine for £1800 and about £400 later it's running perfectly with 131k miles on the clock. Look on ebay for early NAD/TD machines, can get them very cheap now. Be a bit wary of ones that smoke a lot or take a lot of cranking to start though.

Examples: 1, 2 Or a 110 3 (All from the bay of E's)

Or, how about a Disco? £1000 will get you a pretty solid 200tdi Discovery, then you can spend the rest on mods.

Just my 2p anyway.

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i agree - £3k - you could get a disco 200tdi, and use the £2k you have left to get any repairs done as needed (most likely inner wings, boot floor or inner sills - all relatively simple welding jobs). If your td engine is a 'bad un' then you either have a rebuild cost, a 'find a new unknown one' or transplant a disco 200tdi engine - all a bit painful and complex.

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Thanks for the quick response. I thought about the older engines but have read the NA will run forever but is very slow!! I know they are no Super charged RR sport but still!! and the TD can go bang (from overheating)

I might think about a Disco for the money.

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Guest dew110CSW
and the TD can go bang (from overheating)

It can if you don't look after it properly. If you keep the oil topped up, don't redline it everywhere and generally keep on top of your servicing then it is a reliable, good engine with strong enough pull (Will sit at 60 no problems) and plenty of low down bite when you need it.

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Guest dew110CSW

My 110's previous life was towing boats around - Hence the twin towbars on it. As I said, as long as you look after them well they are a fine engine. Mines got over 130k on the clock now, it has no smoke and runs like a good 'un. Only thing the engines had done was a new set of injectors.

For laning/P+P a TD would do you fine, for off roading your choice of Tires is more critical than your engine, all LRs would be carp on slicks!

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Welcome to the forum, theres loads of nice people on here, and a few idiots too :D

Three grand will get you a lot of defender as far as I'm concerned,

Four examples -

My old 90, a 1991 factory 200tdi, cost £1750 to purchase, Jobs for MOT cost around £50, total cost for working reliable vehicle £1800, sold 9months later for £3750

My current 90, a 1987 factory TD, cost £700 stolen/recovered, Jobs for MOT are upto around £500 (I have spent thousands more but they werent neccessary for the MOT), I bought a 1993 MOT failure Discovery for £350 and sold enough parts to make my money back = 200tdi free of charge, add £200 for engine fitting, total cost for working reliable vehicle £1400(ish)

rock_on_skeeter's 90, a 1989 factory TD, cost £1700, came with Tax and MOT, he recently bought a brand new 300tdi complete engine for £1000, add maybe £300 for fitting, total cost for working reliable vehicle £3000 (this vehicle was a complete bargain when purchased and is in excellent mechanical condition)

A non-forum member friend Jake, a 1985 factory NA, cost £1000 to purchase, came with Tax and MOT, he bought a Discovery 200tdi engine for £500, add £200 for engine fitting, total cost for working reliable vehicle £1700

All of the above 90's are/were running tdi engines of some description when finished (not that you ever finish a Land Rover :rolleyes: ) but both Jakes and rock_on_skeeters were reliable and perefctly useable (if a little slow with Jakes) before the engine changes. With my current 90 I had the disco already so I did the engine swap, but if funds had been tight I would have just used the TD. If you wanted a 110 then its even cheaper as prices for 90's tend to be higher

If you know a hammer from a spanner theres no reason why you cant do an engine swap yourself, even with limited resources (did mine in a field, rock_on_skeeter is doing his in the driveway outside his house)

Another option is to look for a TD powered defender in the best condition you can afford, you will get a better TD car for the same money as a ratty Tdi. Then just build a collection of cheap TD engines (most people including me are trying to give them away after swapping to tdi) so that you can tune the nuts off it, safe in the knowledge that when it goes pop you have another engine (or 5 :lol: ) ready to drop straight in, if its not your only car then it wont matter too much

Lewis :)

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Best bit of advioce I can give you is to say "Stuff the Age" and go PURELY on condition when you buy

Keys areas to have IMHO as 100% sound are

Bulkhead

Chassis

Bodywork and trim if it bothers you

Everything is repaireable but rotten or rough chassis just walk away theres another round the corner.

Price should = Age AND CONDITION

I would far rather have an immaculately well maintained old 90 than a tatty dog with a late plate

Nige

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I have some mechanical knowloedge and my girlfriends grandad is a mechanic and has a full height hydraulic four post ramp in his garage so somewhere to carry out the swap shouldnt be a problem. :lol::lol::lol:

Swapping engines - easy or hard what about Discos into Fenders - what needs to be changed?? Bell housing??

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I have some mechanical knowloedge and my girlfriends grandad is a mechanic and has a full height hydraulic four post ramp in his garage so somewhere to carry out the swap shouldnt be a problem. :lol::lol::lol:

Swapping engines - easy or hard what about Discos into Fenders - what needs to be changed?? Bell housing??

refer to these links for more how to fit info ------------

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2394

http://www.btinternet.com/~les.brocklehurs...conversion.html

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Best bit of advioce I can give you is to say "Stuff the Age" and go PURELY on condition when you buy

Keys areas to have IMHO as 100% sound are

Bulkhead

Chassis

Bodywork and trim if it bothers you

Everything is repaireable but rotten or rough chassis just walk away theres another round the corner.

Price should = Age AND CONDITION

I would far rather have an immaculately well maintained old 90 than a tatty dog with a late plate

Nige

If you want proof of this, look at the incredibly tatty 2004 TD5 Defenders as used in a zinc mine in the LRM. I am lucky to live in a place where rust does not really exist, but we still get very tatty newish Defenders. I think that someone who drives around in a wreck with torn seats and rubbish everywhere is not someone who will have looked after the mechanical bits either.

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Guest diesel_jim

Not wanting to blatantly spam, but My rebuilt 90 is up for sale. 300Tdi, R380, disc braked back axle. full chassis up rebuild (with photo album) :D:D

Just had the head skimmed as it was overheating, but the rest of the spec is as shown on the link,

I'm happy to haggle with prices!! :D:lol:

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It can if you don't look after it properly. If you keep the oil topped up, don't redline it everywhere and generally keep on top of your servicing then it is a reliable, good engine with strong enough pull (Will sit at 60 no problems) and plenty of low down bite when you need it.

The TD engine is was and will always be carp

get a TDI if you are getting a diesel.

The TD is:

over stressed under powered pile of junk.

one of the worst L/R engines ever.

How long have you had yours Dew?

I'd start the search for a TDI you'll not regret it

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Guest dew110CSW
The TD engine is was and will always be carp

get a TDI if you are getting a diesel.

The TD is:

over stressed under powered pile of junk.

one of the worst L/R engines ever.

How long have you had yours Dew?

I'd start the search for a TDI you'll not regret it

Had mine since July 06, covered around 4000 Miles.

I know lots of people with TDs in 90s and 110s and they all like them as engines. Find they have more than enough power to haul the beast around. Surley the worst LR Engine is the 2.25 petrol, V8 Economy and half the power.

I can't be bothered wasting Money I really don't have on a TDi when I have a perfectly working TD under the bonnet.

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i recently looked over an original 200tdi def 90 with new wings, bulkhead etc, high mileage 120k IIRC for £2,800 it goes like a dream and does 28mpg and chassis was mint for the age. so they are about. i would get a tdi and consider Niges points on condition etc.

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Hi all,

Am new to this forum and to landies (well owning one anyway) i know you experienced guys get bored with these type of threads but i just wanted to ask for £3k what is my best options? Looking 200tdi ish good durable engine?? What are your thoughts. I am looking for a play thing really for weekends.

Many thanks for you help. :D:D:D

I'm in exactly the same situation as you. I've already got 2 (and a half :D) Series Land Rovers and now want a Defender. When I started looking, the first thing that struck me was how ridiculously expensive Defenders are for the age and mileage (130,000 miles and 14 years old for £4000! :blink:). That said, they value will still be high (compared with other types of vehicle) when you sell it.

One thing I have noticed is that the 300Tdi seems a lot nicer to drive than the 200Tdi. I had been told this on a number of occasions, but didn't believe it because the specifications for the engine are the same. Having driven both I can see the difference. Not sure why though.

There are bargains to be had, so I recommend that you equip yourself with some knowledge of what to look for and avoid the dealer prices. I'm a real cheapskate and have a distorted view of what should be worth what, so everything looks expensive to me!

Another thought: I would rather buy one that is cheap due to mechanical problems rather than body damage (I've seen a lot of battered Defenders for sale). You can sort out mechanicals yourself at home relatively easily (compared with getting it done at a garage) and that will contribute to the value of the car. Bodywork is a lot more difficult and expensive to sort out, and you will have to turn to a professional at some stage - unless of course you have your own painting facilities.

Mike

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Yeah thats a good view to take. Body panels seem to be expensive in the main. I have looked at quite a few but a a picky bloke and want te best i can possibly get for the money. I might save up a touch more and try for a Tdi even though i have been given good advice from people who have TD's. It all depends on what your using it for. I just want to go laning and P&Ps so i am not too bothered about a few dings and scratches as i have another car to use if its off the road being repaired!!

I am going to get in touch with a guy who Mark 90 put me onto about a TD so i will go and have a look a that.

Then when it goes bang i will try and source a tdi from a disco. I have quite a few options so its just a case of mulling over them and making the right one!!!

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You can change things like front wings relatively easily - and doors too - but doors are expensive for Defenders. Rear quarters are available easily enough but not an easy job to change, then you've got the painting to consider afterwards.

I can't really comment on the difference between a TD and a 200 Tdi for road use as I have only used a TD around my friend's farm, but considering the noticeable difference between a 200 and 300Tdi I imagine it will be a lot more noticeable between the TD and a 200Tdi - for road use that is!

Out of the cars I've looked at I'd definitely go for a straight older one (a 200Tdi) than a battered 300Tdi for the same price. A set of late Defender alloys on any old straight Defender/pre-Defender will really transform the look, but you can't achieve the same transformation on a battered one!

Mike

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