Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 Any ideas ? On an exhaust that will have a lambda sensor removed for a while and a blanking plug inserted in its place, so that when some months later the plug needs to be removed and the lambda sensor shoved back in again the plug will come undone ? Copperslip ? Nothing ? Or something else ?....in which case WHAT ! ? nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 Gallons of copperslip Don't use nothing, when my last Discovery was built it had "nothing" on the downpipe to manifold studs and I had a hell of a job getting them out - dry as a bone refitted with lots of copperslip and when I took it off again to do the auto box conversion, it was much easier I think you have to be careful not to get anything on the lambda sensor though... or it buggers them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 Good luck!!!!!! You could try coppaslip and a windy gun..........but then for how often your truck actually works it'll probably just unscrew again anyway as it'll only have done about 10 miles! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 23, 2007 Author Share Posted March 23, 2007 Remember I know where you live ........................................................ <fatal attraction mode on> Oh look thats your doorbell ringing........ Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 Make the plug from copper / brass? the same thinking behind using copper / brass nuts on the manifold bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 As Dave said, make a brass plug. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 Use chewing gum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 23, 2007 Author Share Posted March 23, 2007 Anyone with a working brain like to contribute Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 piece of liquorice? OR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 23, 2007 Author Share Posted March 23, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 threaded chewing gum? no idea about which flavour though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS26 Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Copperslip ? Copperslip works, but only to a degree. I find that I always expect more than it gives. I would go for brass or (completely off-the-wall and never tried this so might be a pile'o'poo but...) how about ptfe tape and a shake-proof washer? Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 why not shove an old Lambda sensor in the hole? Are the latest Tesco fuel fiasco most garages will have a spare or two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 why not shove an old Lambda sensor in the hole?Are the latest Tesco fuel fiasco most garages will have a spare or two I would agree and say that's the best suggestion yet just unplug them and protect the plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 why not shove an old Lambda sensor in the hole?Are the latest Tesco fuel fiasco most garages will have a spare or two That's probably the best idea. I'm not sure about a copper / brass plug, though. The problem is that it'll expand faster / more than steel (remember the bi-metalic strip experiment at school?) and so a plug will become tighter when its warmed rather than looser (in the case of a nut). you're only chance of getting it off will be to do it when the engines cold and if it gets stuck don't bother trying to heat it. The only plus side is you won't get the plug and the exhaust corroding together and, if it does get stuck, it'll be easy to drill. P.S. Tony, you have far too much time on your hands! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petergg Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Copper slip and undo it once in a while to stop it from sizing up. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Nige - the thing gets so hot it shouldn't corrode, the reason exhaust fixings do is they're exposed for years, the thread of the lambda is not exposed once it's wound into the hole, I've never had a problem getting one undone from anything in the scrapyard. Wind a dead one or an old spark plug in, use coppaslip if you want but I doubt you'll have hassle getting it out. Is PTFE tape rated to 900°C? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS26 Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Is PTFE tape rated to 900°C? Nah... Course not.. I said it was a daft idea 260 centigrade is all it'll manage apparently... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwriyadh Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 The correct solution is anti-seize paste which smeared on all(?) new lambda sensors from the packet. I understand this to be a paste medium carrying glass balls or bits in it. "Apply anti-seize (ex. GM #5613695) to the threads before installing", quoted from MS site. I did briefly chase this at my local Vauxhall dealer parts department, was promised a phone call back but as usual, no result. Have a chase yourself for it, somebody in this country must make something like that. jw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoyodyne Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Make the plug from copper / brass? What about electrolytic corrosion? It just needs a bit of road salt and some damp ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Make the plug from copper / brass? What about electrolytic corrosion? It just needs a bit of road salt and some damp ... True, but its unlikely to get down the thread especially at opperating temperatures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwriyadh Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Hows about Rocol? Number 1 from an "anti-seize paste" Google. Good for 1100deg C. See http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/produc...ol%20Anti-Seize jw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwriyadh Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Gave up looking, there's loads of them, mainly copper based. Did note two things; Innovate say not to run their LC1 disconnected, so if yours is WB then be careful. New oxygen sensors will be packaged with a special anti-seize lubricant already applied to the threads. If a sensor is removed from the exhaust and is to be reinstalled for any reason, the sensor threads must be coated with a fresh anti-seize compound. Use a G.M. anti-seize compound no. 5613695, no. 3613695 or an equivalent compound made of liquid graphite and glass beads. This is not a conventional anti-seize paste, the graphite will tend to burn away but the glass beads will remain. The use of a regular compound may electrically insulate the sensor, rendering it inoperative. You must coat the threads with an electrically conductive anti-seize compound. Depends upon whether you have an earth connection to the device or if it relies on the thread into the exhaust. jw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 I *think* the reason not to run the LC-1 disconnected is that it won't be heated and could get bunged up with deposits so presumably this goes for all widebands and to a lesser degree for heated narrowbands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Wot I heard was that an unplugged sensor is not heated and will DIE As for Brass being easier to drill out isn't it is harder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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