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Guest WALFY
you army types :) no good with lists and figures?

Door/spare wheel/wheel carrier/high lift/tool box/

where all on it when it was weighed at 2180kg

I'd suspect those all in weight a tad more than 50kgs :)

In my defence the post I quoted only mentioned the wood, hi-lift and tools. Not the door and wheel.

What do you mean by You Army types. We are the backbone of society ;) Without us this country would collapse :D

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In my defence the post I quoted only mentioned the wood, hi-lift and tools. Not the door and wheel.

What do you mean by You Army types. We are the backbone of society ;) Without us this counry would collapse :D

what is a Counry?

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Dose anyone do anything to stop the mud from bulding up in crevises on the truck while its competeing.

the freelander when racing can carry up to 30kg of mud around with them when racing and thats jsut what stickes to them as all its pastic inner arches deflect most of the mud from the belly of the car.

after my 90 was smashed up it sat in a frends yard slowly being stripped and when I collected it I had to scrap up with a shovel all the carp that fell of it and onto the floor (it was washed when it first arrived) and as it was being stripped the mud built up.

7 bin bags size rubble sacks were filled and each one being too heavy for the wife to move and I struggled to get them into the disco to take down the dump.

so this must be a consideration in the reduction of weight for competion trucks.

my fuel tank guarde held loads and loads of mud which I could never clean out of even see.

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Rather than unbolt things then drive to the weighbridge, weigh it once and then weigh everything that comes off on a set of bathroom scales. Having watched Jez cutting bits off of petal there's a lot of weight to be saved on a "challenge spec" 90. Then again I think jez would have limbs amputated to save weight if it didn't make driving so tricky :lol:

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Dose anyone do anything to stop the mud from bulding up in crevises on the truck while its competeing.

the freelander when racing can carry up to 30kg of mud around with them when racing and thats jsut what stickes to them as all its pastic inner arches deflect most of the mud from the belly of the car.

after my 90 was smashed up it sat in a frends yard slowly being stripped and when I collected it I had to scrap up with a shovel all the carp that fell of it and onto the floor (it was washed when it first arrived) and as it was being stripped the mud built up.

7 bin bags size rubble sacks were filled and each one being too heavy for the wife to move and I struggled to get them into the disco to take down the dump.

so this must be a consideration in the reduction of weight for competion trucks.

my fuel tank guarde held loads and loads of mud which I could never clean out of even see.

Right Jules you first. :rolleyes:

The WRC cars for the Safari use expanding foam in the wheel arches to stop the mud building up. I used that on my 1300 Sunbeam rally car. Makes things quieter as well :o It does work. Don't worry if the tyres hit it. They'll remove any excess !!

Tank guard. A bin bag between the tank tank and guard and fill with expanding foam.

I used two inch thick foam rubber. It does the same thing. We used that between the sump and sump guard to stop the sump being holed by stones trapped in there.

Remember that expanding foam is a sod to work with and gets everywhere except where you'd like it to go....... :D

Glass fibre wings.

I think a good idea. Then you can remove the wing protectors. Glass fibre when hit will damage locally not a huge thing like a metal one. Simply and easily repaired.

How much time do you have ? I had little money when building my Sunbeam but time was free.

So Every bolt was fitted then marked for length and the unessary length cut off and binned. All washers under bolt heads were looked at to see if they were necessary and binned if not. I used thread sealant instead. Any bolt half inch or over was drilled down it's length :lol: Yes honestly.

No idea if I saved any real weight but it looked good :o

mike

I can cause trouble in an empty house.

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Right Jules you first. :rolleyes:

The WRC cars for the Safari use expanding foam in the wheel arches to stop the mud building up. I used that on my 1300 Sunbeam rally car. Makes things quieter as well :o It does work. Don't worry if the tyres hit it. They'll remove any excess !!

Tank guard. A bin bag between the tank tank and guard and fill with expanding foam.

I used two inch thick foam rubber. It does the same thing. We used that between the sump and sump guard to stop the sump being holed by stones trapped in there.

Remember that expanding foam is a sod to work with and gets everywhere except where you'd like it to go....... :D

Glass fibre wings.

I think a good idea. Then you can remove the wing protectors. Glass fibre when hit will damage locally not a huge thing like a metal one. Simply and easily repaired.

How much time do you have ? I had little money when building my Sunbeam but time was free.

So Every bolt was fitted then marked for length and the unessary length cut off and binned. All washers under bolt heads were looked at to see if they were necessary and binned if not. I used thread sealant instead. Any bolt half inch or over was drilled down it's length :lol: Yes honestly.

No idea if I saved any real weight but it looked good :o

mike

I can cause trouble in an empty house.

There are some good ideas I will use some of them on the freelander as the belly gards fill up with stones.

I like the line "money is short but time is not"

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One thing I notice is that no-one has mentioned is how much does a bluddy simex tyre weigh???? Put some smaller tyres on it!

Put the driver on a diet too!!!

It all depends really on what you want to use the truck for and how silly you want to go! For example if you only ever use low box for challenges then take the high ratio gears out of the transfer box. (My mate has taken the low range ones out of his safari racer for this very reason).

IMHO the majority of the weight is in the chassis/driveline. Anyone picked up an axle lately?? What could be done to lighten axles, suspension arms etc. Plus as Nige says - single heaviest part of it is that oil burner under the bonnet! The bare block probably weighs about the same as a fully dressed V8!

How about some holes in the chassis?? Let the water and mud out too..........

Jon

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wasnt really trying to hard to save weight last year, but fully fuelled, carrying full recovery & tool riders, kit/rations/water/fags the stage ready weight was 2140kgs, bear in mind my wheel/tyre combos are 75kgs a corner and I carry 45ltrs of hydraulic fuild, 95ltrs of diesel, hilift, waffles and a 2.8ltr cast iron diesel engine pushing those ridiculously heavy portal axles (phrase copyright owned by the experts)...

This year theres been a concious effort to shave lard; managed to save 50kgs on front bodywork alone, the back end has netted a heap of weight, the bathroom scales weigh technique has totted up a net saving (yet to be proved) of 200kgs but I may have to put a few back on before the end of build. having a dwarf navigator saves 40kgs (and he's the same ground pressure as the car :) )

theres a lot of weight that can be saved- changing tube in the roll cage saved 20kgs above the roofline. loosing surplus brackets gained another 18kgs, remaking all the storage out of ally saved heaps. removing crossmembers etc. Theres more I could do but time and money arent my friends :( the next car will be so much lighter :)

If I could just get hold of Stephen Hawkins lip control joystick thing I could remove my arms Fridge... Im just waiting for his batteries to go flat long enough to "borrow" it.. <_<

Im with Daan - look long and hard, if you dont need it then dont have it- but its a value judgement at the end of the day with a daily driver, tough one :unsure:

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Jon a blooming V8 doesn't tend to last the day at the latest events (See BBC Ian for info)

A V8 is s far off the bottom of my List I can't actually see it.

excess bracketry wood lining and sound deadening can be addressed

a Simex on a Rim must weigh 30kgs I'll weigh one Friday when I collect a new one and have if fitted to a new rim.

then mud traps such as the tank guard can have some holes, although this would benefit from being changed to Ally for sure.

I'll get it weighed with Simex on asap then see what can be lost/dropped from the required list.

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Leave your lunchbox at the start Tony, that should do it ;)

Military doors are worth considering if you could swap back to wind-ups for day-to-day (don't think thats easy though is it? Ditching side glass for Polycarbonate would make a biggish difference, maybe a second set of doors for competing with the bare minimum??

Ditch the steering guard, you drive carefully. I don't its an option for me ;)

Have you got the rear bulkhead in place still? could probably cut a huge hunk of that out with the rollcage in.

Ditch the dash board and go for a series two look with a simple ali panel in the middle? I have been mulling that over for a while...

Will :)

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Does the tank guard HVE to be metal.

Remember Audi use carbon fibre for their Quattro rally car sump guards.

Quarter/6mm marine ply wrapped in carbon strips and two thing layers of glass fibre.

I still have the carbon fibres. It was the marine ply I couldn't get in a small piece.

Like Will I think the dash could be ditched. Especially the top rail.

mike

I can and do cause trouble in an empty house !!!

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Jon a blooming V8 doesn't tend to last the day at the latest events (See BBC Ian for info)

A V8 is s far off the bottom of my List I can't actually see it.

Is that the sound of a gauntlet being thown down.. :lol::lol:

And my RR is not built for competing but I would say although its too long and too heavy and too big and no winch, I would imagin as a V8 she could put up a good fight....... :lol:

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