doddel Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 I am trying to get my chassis in a better shape. First I will get all the superficial rust off with a brush on an angle grinder. Then I want to paint the chassis. Should I use black underseal, or is it better to use paint? If paint, which brand, how many layers, etc? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 A wire brush wheel in an angle grinder is great for cleaning the chassis up, it works very well. worth wearing gloves and eye protection though, and a mask if you're in an enclosed space. I paint the chassis. Red oxide, then a couple of coats of Wickes straight-to-metal paint. its not all-singing all-dancing but it's 7 quid a tin and has lasted well on my 90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Smoothrite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corrode Finger Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Dont know if its 'best' but i used Chassis Black on my hybrid chassis during its build. Basically cleaned all the rusty crud off, made sure the atmosphere was dry, before and after painting, to try to minimise the entrapment of moisture under tha paint. I have heard mixed responses to Hammerite, and i have had a few iffy finishes with it, but good ones too. Chassis Black is about £35 for 5 litres from a paint factors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 I am currently loving Zinc Phosphate primer, auto paint factors sell it. You'll need to thin it otherwise it can go a bit like treacle when you try to paint it on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 I've found hammerite to be a bit brittle, tends to chip off. I've used crown exterior gloss and found it ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 As Luke says. Wicks straight to metal paint. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 You said it originally Mike, i just took your advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Rubberised stone chip paint is incredibly tough. No primer - just grease free metalwork with loose/flaky paint rust removed. No thinners needed either and it can be put on with a shutz gun. I test painted a bit of metal and then walloped it with a hammer once it had dried and it just made a small mark. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 I've found hammerite to be a bit brittle, tends to chip off.I've used crown exterior gloss and found it ok The thnig to remember is that land rover chassis flex under normal use - so any paint that sets rock hard (like hammerite) will not provide lasting protection. Even worse it will crack, allow water behind it, which causes sheets of rust to form behind the paint. NOT nice. I recommend that if you can't galvanise the chassis then paint it with a zinc rich primer - Galfroid is my favourate - then top coat with a quailty domestic oil based exterior gloss paint - Dulux or similar. Two coats of each. Follow up with a a waxoil layer painted on the outside, and sprayed heavily on the inside. If the chassis is rusty then add 1/3 new engine oil to the waxoil for the inside - allows the oil to soak into the rust, rather than the wax to sit on the rust. Horrid job, which I'm doing at the moment, but worth it. Good luck - what you are doing will prolong the life of the cahssis indefinately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doddel Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 I recommend that if you can't galvanise the chassis then paint it with a zinc rich primer - Galfroid is my favourate - I thought you can only apply a zinc primer on bare metal? I am not going to strip the chassis to bare metal I also bought a can of waxoyl (and a gun) to treat the bulkhead, doors and chassis. Problem is, I live in a flat with chared offroad parking Maybe not a good idea to start playing with waxoyl there... If anybody knows of a place in or around Liverpool where I can do the waxoyl treatment, please let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 You said it originally Mike, i just took your advice Really...Did I..... Well the rear military bumperetts that I painted four years ago need repainting.... That was Wicks....... They can wait until I get home next March. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 I also bought a can of waxoyl (and a gun) to treat the bulkhead, doors and chassis. Problem is, I live in a flat with chared offroad parking Maybe not a good idea to start playing with waxoyl there... If anybody knows of a place in or around Liverpool where I can do the waxoyl treatment, please let me know HFH is yer man for all waxoyl cat related queries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doddel Posted August 2, 2007 Author Share Posted August 2, 2007 HFH is yer man for all waxoyl cat related queries. and what/who is HFH??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8CAMEL Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 start an argument mode on klentex end start an argument mode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 start an argument mode on klentex end start an argument mode Ermintrude? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 and what/who is HFH??? HFH you're new here aren't you? someone will direct you to the post in question (warning: make sure you have been to the toilet before you start reading). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 KleenCrap Hammer****e Make your own mind up... Ref using a wire brush on the angle grinder. Be aware that this tends to polish steel if you get that far so it doesn't make a good surface for new paint/ protection to stick to. Make sure you 'roughen' the clean steel surface before you paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Ermintrude? Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Some of the rustiest vehicles I hae ever worked on have been ex British army lightweights and 101's with that horrible thick, hard black coating all over them. Is that what you folk call Hammerite? or is it underseal ? Whatever its name it seems useless at inhibiting chassis rot.We use a substance called fish oil over here. It smells fishy and all the neighborhood cats hang around the vehicle for months untill the smell wears off, but it is a well proven treatment. After all when was the last time you saw a rusty fish? Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 I think it is underseal. It is OK to use on brand new vehicles with a clean chassis, but can accelerate rusting if improperly applied to an older vehicle that is starting to rust. I prefer to use oil based rust proofing as it tends not to dry out like waxoil. It also has a good creeping effect. But don't use old engine oil as this is too thin and is acidic so again can accellerate rusting. I use products from Nopava. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 hi I went with galvafroid, its really good but expensive unless you can get it free its best to back to clean metal but if you just remove the flaky stuff and give it something to stick to then it should still work. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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