HotRod Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Having read everything I can find on changing a cambelt on a 300Tdi it looks advisable to eyeball the groove in the flywheel though the wading plug hole in the bottom of the bellhousing - to ensure you're at TDC - supposed to be more accurate than looking for the crank key to be at 12 o'clock The official LR tool to hold the flywheel in place is a fancy bolt with a sliding pin thru the middle, but it seems to me you could grind a suitable bolt to a point and screw this in place (once you'd positioned the groove in the centre of the wading plug hole. Anyone tried this? Reckon it would work/ useful? Anyone know the thread on this bung hole in a '97 300 Tdi Defender? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 doesnt the wrong end of a 9mm drill bit do the same trick ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Turn the crank until the woodruff key is opposite the arrow, then get underneath and using a torch - look to see if the slot is dead centre of the wading plug hole. The pin is hardened steel, so if you make a bolt that will locate in the slot - don't put any strain on it because if a bit of it breaks off - you'll be removing the gearbox. The distance between each valley of a timing belt sprocket is about 6mm, so you would have to be a long way out. Sean - the drill bit is for locking the injector pump sprocket. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 A reverse light switch off a Defender R380 gearbox screws straight in and the pin springs into the slot when aligned. As Les points out, don't put any strain on it or it will break! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumps Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 A reverse light switch off a Defender R380 gearbox screws straight in abd the pin springs into the slot when aligned. As Les points out, don't put any strain on it or it will break! Hi, I made my own locking pin by drilling a 3/16th of an inch hole in the centre of an old wading plug and using the shank-end of the drill as the locking pin. I do have access to a lathe so finding the centre of the wading plug was easy but a bit of careful measuring should allow anyone to do it. Mod 1 of the one I made replaced the drill with a steel pin retained in the plug with a split-pin either side to allow it to "drop" clear of the flywheel but not disappear into the cr*p on my drive. Hope this helps Scrumps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotRod Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 That's helpful thanks, maybe just look up the inspection hole and avoid turning the crank again Anyone know the thread on the wading plug/reverse light switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumps Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 That's helpful thanks, maybe just look up the inspection hole and avoid turning the crank againAnyone know the thread on the wading plug/reverse light switch? Don't know the thread but a wading plug is only a couple of quid from LR. Scrumps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Here's a sketch of the wading plug method (unfortunately, there's been a long time since it's sitting in my archive and I can't remember whom to give the credit to): I asked the question before in this thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=18483 Mind that D= 1/4" BSP !! (not what presumed when I opened the thread). You can do the math for the rest of the figures (I don't have them handy but I can redo the math if you don't manage). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I made this for my 200Tdi (which I think would be the same for a 300) of a pneumatic fitting I had lying around. The gap in the flywheel was, If I'm not wrong, 5,5 mm. So I just opened up the hole in the fitting with a 5,5 mm drill bit. And had the necessary tool at hand. When assembling the engine I adjusted everything by sight, but luckily I checked once more before lifting it into the engine bay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Just remember the slot you need is the 'Narrow' one Not the wider one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I think the thread is 1/4 BSP... (size confirmed by cipx ) I did much the same as has been suggested, only I turned the end of an M8 stainless steel bolt down to the width of the slot, and drilled/tapped a spare wading plug. The bolt just screws though the wading plug, and locates in the slot in the flywheel. Can do a pic if anyone is interested? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotRod Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 Just remember the slot you need is the 'Narrow' one Not the wider one. Now you've got me! Yopu mean there's 2 slots in the flywheel??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Now you've got me! Yopu mean there's 2 slots in the flywheel??? Well there is on my 200Tdi's flywheel, so I'd expect them to be on yours too. the wider slot is about 3 times bigger across then the timing pin slot. get some one to rotate the engine by hand while you watch for the slot through the flywheel housing wading plug hole, you'll soon notice the correct slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 There are two slots on the 300TDi flywheel as well, but if the woodruff key is in line with the arrow, then you don't have to worry about the other slot as it's miles away. Ralph is just trying to scare you Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 No I'm not i f the engine is set by using the flywheel first then it's possible to centre the incorrect slot, just making our friend aware that there is 2 slots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Hi,I made my own locking pin by drilling a 3/16th of an inch hole in the centre of an old wading plug and using the shank-end of the drill as the locking pin. I do have access to a lathe so finding the centre of the wading plug was easy but a bit of careful measuring should allow anyone to do it. Mod 1 of the one I made replaced the drill with a steel pin retained in the plug with a split-pin either side to allow it to "drop" clear of the flywheel but not disappear into the cr*p on my drive. Hope this helps Scrumps This is just what i did. works a treat. HotRod, you can borrow mine if you need it. i can stick it in the post on monday if needed. PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 I just made one using a 1/4 BSP x somethingorother brass reducing nipple, tapped it 6mm down the guts and turned the end down on a 6mm socket head cap screw to 5mm. Screw the reducing bush in the wading plug hole, screw the bolt into the bush. Locks positively and wont fall out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Mine is made with a wading plug and a 3/16" drill, as above. My mod is to use Press-Stick to hold the drill in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiall Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 i just bought the tool from franklin.... puller , edc setting pins, locking pins etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 i just bought the tool from franklin.... puller , edc setting pins, locking pins etc easier to make than procure outside of Blighty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sesmith72 Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 On 1/25/2008 at 6:21 AM, western said: Just remember the slot you need is the 'Narrow' one Not the wider one. To lock the flywheel the locking pin tool (3/16”) will pop into either slot, BUT to lock at TDC you need to use the smaller slot?? Please clarify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 There are two slots in different positions around the flywheel. The one you need, to position #1 at TDC, is the narrow slot as @westernsaid. You can rotate the crank with a ratchet on the bolt and at the same some look into the hole with a torch and you can watch the ring gear move and see the two slots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 And, possibly obviously, if you are changing the timing belt loosen the bolt in the crank nose BEFORE you lock the crankshaft, and take the pin out BEFORE tightening it at the end otherwise you bend the pin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 17 hours ago, sesmith72 said: To lock the flywheel the locking pin tool (3/16”) will pop into either slot, BUT to lock at TDC you need to use the smaller slot?? Please clarify. The wider slot is for the older TD & N/A diesel engines the flywheel is a common part to the 4 cylinder diesel engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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