M&S Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 Well looked over mine again yesterday (out of curiosity - it does work so I wasn't worried about that), and I don't see the need to replace the servo or air filter pipe. I've left the solenoids in place but unplugged them, and blanked the two pipes from the solenoid that were to the egr, as per the instructions that came with the kit. As I say, it's been like this for over a year with no problems (and I certainly don't anticipate any). Different methods, same result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Tonkin Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 Are you referring to the IRB kit here? ie they now come with a bung rather than a replacement pipe? I hope not! It was the pipe that seperated it from the competition. The material of the induction pipe seems largely irrelavant other than aesthetics - and other kits have bungs too... I thought the pipe replacement helped it look professional too. I hope I've misread your post. This was certainly the case when I got mine as the supplier of these pipes (that also supplied LR the ones for the TD5) was no longer in business IIRC. Obviously any kind ob bung is a weak point in this critical system which is why Ian has some special bungs made to make sure they fit well, could be secured and did not degrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathroom man Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Only post 2002 have the heat exchanger, was part of the upgrade to enable Td5 to meet EU3 emissions..... Pre 2002 simply have a pipe going from the exhaust manifold into the intake. You could just put a plate in between the stainless pipe and the exhaust manifold... but this is far from ideal 'especially' on post 2002 cars (something that all the people on Ebay just selling blanking plates fail to point out). Most common set-ups: People disconnect and unplug the solenoids and nothing else... this is ok as long as the EGR set-up is brand new.... an older one will be full of crud (technical term lol) and can fail to seat correctly - so still allowing spent exhaust gas back into the engine all of the time!! EGR's on Td5 do, quite often, stick partially open - allowing spent exhaust gas to pass back into the inlet all the of the time, not just when the ECU should allow it....this is bad for the engine, and can lead to rapid bore wear!! Some people just fit the blanking plate to the exhaust manifold.... This is principle is ok... however: On a pre 2002 car, you still have a partial blockage into the inlet manifold (i.e. the plunger and associated casting) - although not giving you 100bhp extra, it is a worth while mod to remove this (i.e. the EGR intake on the front of the inlet manifold) and fit a straight through inlet section. On post 2002 cars, doing this is a lot worse.... I will post a picture in a bit (although Steves' last picture also shows it) but a post 2002 Td5 has, what looks like, a throttle blade inside the intake section that bolts to the inlet manifold. If you simply blank the exhaust manifold, this blade will still operate (when demanded by the ECU) effectively blocking the intake into the inlet manifold.. If you disconnect the blade and plunger from the two ECU controlled solenoids, the blade stays at at angle (i.e. not horizontal) so you will always have a slight blockage... which again is not ideal from an air intake point of view - as you simply creating a pressure build up. Personally, I would remove the set-up completely.... it is un-needed for use on UK roads... EGR does not effect smoke/opacity thus will not effect MOT's (same as removing the cat from post 2002 Td5's) Removing the EGR set-up is also very important if you travel into areas (i.e. other countries) that use high suphler diesel.... use of high sulpher diesel, in a vehicle fitted with EGR will very quickly destroy the stainless pipe work... hence why RoW spec Td5's have no EGR fitted. Ian Hi ian I have read steves description on your egr blanking kit, could you give me a idea of how much a kit would be for a 99 td5, it has one straight through flexi pipe from exhaust to egr valve and one sensor. regards steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02jcole Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Hi Steve, Ian lits them at £65 + VAT on his website: IRB Developments His 300tdi kit is the best on the market in my opinion James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathroom man Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Hi Steve, Ian lits them at £65 + VAT on his website: IRB Developments His 300tdi kit is the best on the market in my opinion James thanks very much james, can you tell me if he still supplies a newsevo pipe with the kits. regards steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 But it is not easy to order one from IRB. :-( :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 just order vis his contact page http://www.irbdevelopments.com/contact.html he maybe away or very busy, so a bit of patience would be in order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 As said above, plenty of places selling them so if you are in a rush and want easy online ordering try http://www.td5alive.com/acatalog/EGR_Bypass.html Otherwise why not just telephone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nidge Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Very helpful article After reading it just had to go check mine. Previous owner removed the EGR. No blanking plates to either end of the heat exchange unit , is this a problem or can that unit be completely removed ? And the 2 blue air pipes just have bolts in the end !! Not everyones work is up to Pornys' high standards !! N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 just order vis his contact page http://www.irbdevelopments.com/contact.html he maybe away or very busy, so a bit of patience would be in order I think I have been patient enough, as I have been trying to get intouch since I bought the Disco in October. I have had 1 reply via PM through this site. So I may go somewhere else now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 might have helped if you had said in your earlier post you had contacted him back in October, I assume you've tried by text/phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandu_222 Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 hey guys, I have a question, I have removed the EGR using terrafirma kit, it did not include the vacuum pipe. question is: is something wrong if I left the vacuum pipe which was connected to the EGR? should I remove the solenoids too and blank the air pipe to the filter, and also this vacuum pipe? what could go wrong if I leave it as it is and the vacuum pipe is there NOT connected to any device? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 My TD5 EGR-deactivation was simply to disconnect the electrical plugs to the two EGR-control solenoids [located on the inner wing of a post-2000 Defender]. Without the electrical feeds, the vacuum-controlled EGR flapper-valves on the front of the intake plenum will sit in their default positions - unrestricted air-flow from the intercooler, zero EGR. Job Done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Except it's not quite unrestricted. Sandu - you'll need to block the vacuum pipe. The solenoids are up to you. There is tons you can read on this through a google search. Lots of examples of people carrying out the modification with kits etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandu_222 Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Except it's not quite unrestricted. Sandu - you'll need to block the vacuum pipe. The solenoids are up to you. There is tons you can read on this through a google search. Lots of examples of people carrying out the modification with kits etc done, and I already felt the increase in power unfortunately, it is possible that the fuel economy also increased a little.. I will check again next time at top-filling tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigster Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 confused. just put on an egr valve replacement kit. only got one blanking plate for the heat exchanger and no mention of disconnection from the exhaust or any other air pipe/sealing it etc etc.. looking at the pictures from the original post I feel I may have done something wrong. so in short I need to block (somehow - bolt or whatever) the two air pipes there were connected direct to the egr valve? or the whole exercise is pointless right? and we don't mind the heat exchanger still being connected as surely it needs to be able to heat and cool whatever goes through it.. ? oh yes - my turbo went bang 48hours after swapping my bits over - hopefully coincidence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maff90 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 With regards to the servo to vacuum pump hose, where there is a 't-piece' that leads to the EGR solenoid, can this 't-piece' simply be removed and replaced with a straight-through hose connector? Surely that would be a simple, neat way to satisfy the issue of blanking plugs/replacing with a difficult to source new hose that is already straight-through/loose and redundant parts remaining in the engine bay? Has anyone tried this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 With regards to the servo to vacuum pump hose, where there is a 't-piece' that leads to the EGR solenoid, can this 't-piece' simply be removed and replaced with a straight-through hose connector? Surely that would be a simple, neat way to satisfy the issue of blanking plugs/replacing with a difficult to source new hose that is already straight-through/loose and redundant parts remaining in the engine bay? Has anyone tried this? I believe the t piece can be replaced as you say. I think the ROW spec vehicles without the egr had a one piece pipe (think it's about £40 from memory) It seems odd to me that our vehicle 'tuners' don't sell a more convincing modification for the vacuum pipe than the suggestion of a crappy self tapping screw or something similar.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 The ROW spec hose is no longer available. I got one for a D2 in the hope it may fit - but it doesn't. I think the difficulty with putting a straight piece in may be that the pipe is plastic and feels a little brittle ? I did wonder about replacing the whole length - though the plastic pipe inserts into a short rubber pipe at the pump end, to increase its size for the fitting, I guess this would need some care in getting the right OD replacement pipe and ensuring the joint sealed properly ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Even a proper rubber bung supplied with the kits would give a better finish than sticking a self tapper or something in the end of the pipe. Given the vacuum pipe feeds the brake servo, i would have thought this would be a sensible and cheap addition. A separate/replacement rubber pipe sounds like a good idea to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 When I did mine, I just cut the pipe either side of the little T-piece and used a short length of 8mm rubber 'injection grade' fuel-hose to join the ends. The plastic pipe is hard enough to accept the sort of light clamping pressure you get from the same kind of spring-clips they use on the small-bore coolant hoses. It's actually very hard to crush a pipe by applying uniform pressure around its diameter; try it with the cardboard tube centre from a toilet-roll sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylorfox22 Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Hi Steve, I'm putting a td5 together and out of the fuel cooler I can't figure out where one of the water hoses go!! It is the big hose bottom right in the picture attached. I don't suppose you could have a look for me. Thanks in advanced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 You do realise that this was 8 years ago!! And which picture are you refering too? Give us a bit more info and I'm sure someone can help, maybe even me as I have a TD5! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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