alan kemp Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Finally started to build "Portalcat" and have a very nice Tomcat frame on a very good chassis. I am cutting off all the carp and beefing up a few bits and thought whilst I am at it, why not seal up all of the surplus holes. This will stop carp getting in but will prevent it from drying out from condensation etc. Is there any scientific reason for those holes to be there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young bobtail Rhys Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Would the expanding builders foam stop condensation if you filled the chassis up with it? Or would it add alot of weight on a big scale like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan kemp Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 Would the expanding builders foam stop condensation if you filled the chassis up with it? Or would it add alot of weight on a big scale like this? Sounds like a good idea to mee. Would stop carp getting in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpb Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Would the expanding builders foam stop condensation if you filled the chassis up with it? Or would it add alot of weight on a big scale like this? In my mind it will cause the chassis to rot quicker, as any moisture will get held against the chassis rails and not dry out. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 I used to be a boat builder and can confirm mpb is right. The stuff acts like a sponge and will stay wet for a very long time. You would need closed cell foam and I don't think you can buy it in liquid form so unless you fancy mixing a few hundred thousand polystyrene beads with glue and pouring it into your chassis I'd forget this idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Having seen how that foam traps moisture around gas flues I'd say no as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boothy Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 I thought about expandable foam, when I first did my chassis but decided against it for 2 reasons 1, the moisture trap 2, how would it react to any future welding of the chassis, it would be interesting to see how much a chassis weighs when nice dry/empty and uncompeted or dunked regulary in mud and water, and say in a couple of years time, when like my chassis no matter which hole in the rails I poke a srewdriver or similar they all feel full of wet mud. Another point worth noting is that I'm in the process of breaking a 200Tdi Disco but before I do we are going to do a good muddy playday before weighing in the body, if its wet through and full of mud underneath it could fetch more than it did when it was new with scrap at the price it is, leave the window open, get the seats wet. I seriously think Alan leave it alone, or perhaps put more holes in where a lance could be inserted to wash out the muck, if its full of mud and weighs a ton it will help it land on its wheels if you roll it. See you soon mucker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 I once had a leaf sprung 1964 Austin Gipsey that started life in the Uk and was driven overland out to Australia through varying damp,humid and salty environs. The chassis like a landRover was constructed from thin sheetmetal but without any holes. Although the bodywork virtually rotted off the chassis the chassis itself was structurally sound and rustfree.Way back when Leyland aquired both Austin and Rover they should have rationalised and fitted LandRover bodywork onto Gipsey chassis and mechanicals. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 if you waxoiled the inside of chassis and covered the holes you'd keep the mud and moisture out and should last Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Why noy just galvenise it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJIbex Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 When I had the 90 I drilled them out to hose pipe size. After playing parked on the drive which had a slope and washed out front to back. You could seal the upper holes and just leave the bottom ones with a removable style of wading plug? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noggy Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Why not just galvenise it? I agree, if your going to the expense of portals, and a tomcat frame wouldnt it be worth getting it galvanised? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan kemp Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 I agree, if your going to the expense of portals, and a tomcat frame wouldnt it be worth getting it galvanised? The chassis and frame are built and needs a lot of work welding cutting etc as the build progress's. I think I will just weld patches over every hole to seal it completely.Maybe leave a plugged hole at either end so I can fire some oil in there when it is finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noggy Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 yeah, just make a big bung at one end, then spray in a mix of diesel and wax oil with a paint gun, works a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon red90 Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 i'd leave holes in it so **** can be blasted out, imho, regardless of how well you seal it, **** will still get in. anyway, how is the truck running? get home from the 90degree ok? si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan kemp Posted July 8, 2008 Author Share Posted July 8, 2008 i'd leave holes in it so **** can be blasted out, imho, regardless of how well you seal it, **** will still get in.anyway, how is the truck running? get home from the 90degree ok? si The chassis on my truck now has all the holes and there is about 6 mm of crud in the bottom of the chassis rails, no way of really getting that out. Adds weight and increases corrosion. Truck is good, both are running better thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticbadger Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 How about welding up everything, and adding the drain plugs suggested above, so that if anything does get in it can be removed / flushed clean and also drilling and tapping for a couple of breathers to stop condensation? could run them up with the other breathers nice and high, should be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 The chassis on my truck now has all the holes and there is about 6 mm of crud in the bottom of the chassis rails, no way of really getting that out. Adds weight and increases corrosion.Truck is good, both are running better thanks Allan get yourself a drain cleaner for the pressure washer easy as anything to clean chassis out http://www.amazon.co.uk/Karcher-Drain-Clea...m/dp/B000HOJ9BK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStu Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 I suppose it depends on how well you can seal the chassis. So many mounting points and holes etc, I'd lean towards tony's suggestion. I'm also made up cos I have a drain cleaning nozzle for my jetwash! Roll on the weekend, good thinking that man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 a 20mm hole in the rear x member is perfect for cleaning the entire chassis rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 ps recognise this Mr Kemp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddballrovers Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Hi Allan How about seal it totally, in front and rear weld in some off them the big screw things from oil drums I think they are 2" diameter, just cut them out off scraped drums, then you can remove them for inspection and you can give it a good spray off waxoil inside. Just my thoughts. Regards Ole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 i'm still toying with the idea of brazing some metal hose pipe fittings to the front and rear of the chassis legs and widening a couple of the drain holes in the chassis legs for drainage - so after a good play i mud i can just clip a standard hosepipe onto the fitting and turn the tap on. go for a coffee and ciggy and come back and swap the pipe to the other chassis leg and jsut leave it to run through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 Can you really get a drain cleaner the whole length of the average chassis ? What about the strengthening plates inside the chassis rails etc.? I would have thought closing all unnecessary holes is a good start. Before you have a truck attached to it, seal all remaining holes that will be used in a temporary fashion (Duct tape / mobile welding on a roll type thing) and then pump loads of thinned / warm waxoyl into the chassis rails from the front.... (May be wise to do one rail at a time..) Generally move, jiggle, invert, shake, rotate the chassis to try and get waxoyl contact with all internal areas..... Then drain excess waxoyl.... (I would suggest using something like Niges cat to wipe off the excess on the outside if any ooozes out.....Oh and definitely use someone elses drive / land...) Do same to other rail... Allow to cool / set and build truck around chassis. All holes will be either sealed by you or sealed with bolts through / to chassis rails so minimal water should get in, and if any does it will probably evaporate before it penetrates the waxoyl coating. Or fit a very small jet engine to the front of each rail.. When the interns get wet, fire up the jet engines to cook the chassis rails from front to back, drying any wet areas in the process.... Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 Neilyes easily there are no plates blocking the chassis the drain cleaner hose fires the water backwards as well as forwards this drives it along I clean the 90 chassis regularly it really is simple but effective Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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