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Crossmember welding woes - what would you do?


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MOT time again, so I had a poke around underneath the LR before Mr MOT got there. I tickled a pinhole with a screwdriver, with the following results...

04072009196.jpg

04072009225.jpg

04072009264.jpg

05072009307.jpg

05072009308.jpg

Plus another patch on the front dumb-iron, not so neatly prepped but it'll be fine just sitting on top.

14072009350.jpg

This year he failed it for having non-obligatory hazard lights (it's a 1984 truck) which don't operate with the ignition turned off - I can just disconnect the switch - they're not testable if they're not fitted. However, his HSS hammer has found some more holes, and particularly he's spotted the crusty bit on the lower face of the crossmember that I was hoping he'd consider ok.

14072009346.jpg

14072009349.jpg

Now that looks like a right b'stard to chop out the lower face, remake it and then reattach to all the strengthening ribs above. The proper answer is probably a new rear crossmember but I'm moving house in a week and I only have evenings to get the truck back on the road, so realistically we're looking at heavy-duty bodging to re-present it for test. What would you do?

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What would you do?

Appeal. Or threaten to. What is the reason for failure? Proximity to a body mount? Cut the body mount off and then see?

Realistically, bodge a huge piece of plate over it to satisfy him and come back to it when you have a covered work area and more time.

Chris

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clean it up and paint it, filler it if you wantit to look super swish.

for the last 5 or so years i've just removed the rusty bits of my crossmember prior to the mot and then painted it and covered it in a lot of underseal at the back and bottom. if you remove the rust, its difficult for it to be failed on that.

the crossmember has now been removed, but it did a lot of mot's until i had the chance to change it.

i think your mot tester has been a bit harsh to be honest.

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Drive to Devon 4x4 and get them to fit one of there fancy things!

Reasons,

1, Bloody good quality,

2, Let them do the hard and dirty work,

3, Cheap for what you get!!

Problem solved.

And "any" chassis rot like that on a vehicle with a separate chassis should be an MOT fail. Think about it, especially in a crash!

Lara

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Lara,

It well and good in theory, but you are forgetting John originates from Derbyshire - you know, up north, where pennies live in fear of becoming copper wire.. ;) ;) ;)

My coat? Why thank you!! :ph34r:

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grind the lower face clean. remove all the rust/rot as best you can, if you find some good metal then bonus. Put one big flat piece under the lot, drill some holes and puddle weld it on to any existing good metal. them seam weld it all the way round.

paint and wayoil the lot.

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Lara - I've no issue with the new rule, I think it's a good thing that people can't dodge the rules just because a towbar isn't a suspension component or a body mount... I just don't want the rules to apply to me, now, because I know better. :lol:

I think I will tidy it up with Herr Grinder, and then stitch / puddle a plate over the top for this year, while I contemplate new crossmember / galv chassis options for next year.

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MOT time again, so I had a poke around underneath the LR before Mr MOT got there. I tickled a pinhole with a screwdriver, with the following results...

04072009196.jpg

04072009225.jpg

04072009264.jpg

05072009307.jpg

05072009308.jpg

Plus another patch on the front dumb-iron, not so neatly prepped but it'll be fine just sitting on top.

14072009350.jpg

This year he failed it for having non-obligatory hazard lights (it's a 1984 truck) which don't operate with the ignition turned off - I can just disconnect the switch - they're not testable if they're not fitted. However, his HSS hammer has found some more holes, and particularly he's spotted the crusty bit on the lower face of the crossmember that I was hoping he'd consider ok.

14072009346.jpg

14072009349.jpg

Now that looks like a right b'stard to chop out the lower face, remake it and then reattach to all the strengthening ribs above. The proper answer is probably a new rear crossmember but I'm moving house in a week and I only have evenings to get the truck back on the road, so realistically we're looking at heavy-duty bodging to re-present it for test. What would you do?

I would cut out a section and weld in a new bit for the time being.

By the way, I notice in your pic that you have a towball/jaw fitted, but no backing plate behind the crossmember. You really should put something behind. Especially with all that rust about. If you are not carefull, a good tug and someone could be wearing your towpoint as a rather heavy bit of jewelry!

Regards,

Diff

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Guest noggy
Lara,

It well and good in theory, but you are forgetting John originates from Derbyshire - you know, up north, where pennies live in fear of becoming copper wire.. ;) ;) ;)

My coat? Why thank you!! :ph34r:

Derbyshire, aint it great :D

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Ah yes, the new towbar rule...

Remove towbar, represent car.

Chris

Chris,

According to *THIS* VOSA document the chassis mounting points are tested regardless of whether the vehicle is presented for inspection with the towbar fitted or not.

A good move IMHO, nothing like having 3.5 tons of boat, car+trailer or plant machinery becoming detached on the motorway at 60mph...

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I just don't want the rules to apply to me, now, because I know better. :lol:

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Now you sound like me :lol::lol::lol::lol:

and Derbyshire? Too far up Noorf for me to imagine the poverty and degradation! That cross-member should pass with flying colours anywhere norf of Watford :P

Lara

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and Derbyshire? Too far up Noorf for me to imagine the poverty and degradation! Lara

just you wait for Harriet Harmon's equality Nazis to get their teeth into the impoverished and under represented northern class - all you white southern working softies will be in for it then!

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I contemplated just spattering a cover over the rust to get it through the test, but realistically I'm not going to tackle it again and it'll take just as long to get the welder out, bodge it and burn myself as it will to make it better. Not necessarily concours, but better.

First step, remove the towbar and chop out the rust in the rear face.

15072009351.jpg

Then cut out the worst bits on the underside:

15072009353.jpg

Plate the rear face, and then wonder what to do next:

15072009356.jpg

The underside was rotten where it forms a box section, but the double-skinned relief on the rear is reasonably solid, although there's rust between the layers which has spread them apart in places. I'd like to cut off the lower skin and weld a closing plate across the box section and onto the upper 'skin' of the relief. Any ideas how to delicately do this with a flap wheel and grinding and cutting discs? Or should I just power-wirebrush it to get it clean and then try to get some kind of a weld onto it?

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John,

If you can afford it at the moment then I would buy a new cross member with extensions - by the time you have bodged the existing one into a fit state to pass the MOT you could have fitted a complete new one.

Face it - next year you will be in exactly the same situation with some other impending urgent appointment that precludes doing anything extensive to the truck........ <_<

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Diff - the spreader plate is roughly 5" square and was cut to fit within the square available in the crossmember - it's 5mm plate from memory. I'm stupid, but I'm not that stupid ;)

Sorry :D Your spreader is such a good fit, I didn't see it!

Regards,

Diff

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Sorry for hijacking this thread a little....My rear crossmember is also on it's way out. I could take it to my local L/R specialist and ask him to make a new stronger crosmember or repair the existing one....Or I could buy one/ make one myself but my mig welder is only a hobby/pro leval one so only welds up to 4mm. This would mean welding double layers together to make a stronger crossmember. What do you think? It's a bit to far to Devon 4x4....Thanks

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One of the previous crossmember threads here mentioned an SPI tooled crossmember. I ordered one as I was in the same boat as John. 6 hours later, job done. Excellent fit and finish and £175 delivered next day from MPS4x4. Much less arsing about than repairing - measure, mark and clean chassis while paint dries on X-Member, chop legs and drop tank, weld, cleanup, more paint refit.

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One of the previous crossmember threads here mentioned an SPI tooled crossmember. I ordered one as I was in the same boat as John. 6 hours later, job done. Excellent fit and finish and £175 delivered next day from MPS4x4. Much less arsing about than repairing - measure, mark and clean chassis while paint dries on X-Member, chop legs and drop tank, weld, cleanup, more paint refit.

yep that's what i found, top quality for the money. cut the old one off and put the new one on :)

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I spoke to them yesterday and they confirmed that they will now supply crossmembers. If they do, and they are the same items that come already attached to their chassis, then they will be superb quality and comparable with the gen item.

I'll certainly try one or two and comment on them.

Les.

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