keithjh Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Hi All, How do i fit two voltmeters on my 110 300tdi, I have two batteries plus slit charge installed (X Eng), and would like to fit a voltmeter for each battery, basically can i do it? and if so how, diagram would also be appreciated, from one of you trickery experts out their. Thanks Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Just run each volt meter directly to its particular battery? Might need an ignition controlled relay to turn them off when the ignition is off though, or even a switch on the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM_110 Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I've got one in the centre console, where the square clock goes, for the secondary battery, and one in the main instrument panel. They're easy to wire as they take no current, and can safely be wired through a 1Amp fuse. My main battery voltmeter takes +ve from after all the various regulators from an ignition switched live at the back of the instrument cluster, sharing a fuse with the instruments. The secondary battery voltmeter takes a +ve and -ve direct from the battery. 1Amp fuse and an on/off switch otherwise the battery would eventually drain. PS I got mine from a 2CV racing site, as they were cheap (14.95 ea), and cheerful. The exact opposite of my ex-wife, in fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Assuming both batteries are earthed to the body: Connect a voltmeter to each battery + terminal To make them switch off with the ignition you can switch the + or - side with a relay, but you will need to make sure the two are separate when the relay is off or the two batteries may try to feed back through the voltmeters. I'd use a 5-pin relay of the type shown below on the -ve side so that 87 & 87b are connected to a voltmeter each, 30 goes to ground and the coil is ignition switched. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/relays/relays.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Why have two voltmeters. Just switch supplies from both batteries to one voltmeter. Do you really need to check them constantly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithjh Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 Thanks for that, have ordered a relay. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Why have two voltmeters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Umm, maybe I'm missing something but... The x-charge is simply a relay which joins the batteries together when energised. So if you switch the voltmeters via the ignition, the only time it tells you anything useful is when the ignition is on, but the engine isn't running (with x-charge hooked to alternator) or never (with x-charge hooked to ignition live). The rest of the time, it only tells you something vague about the charging current and quality of your wiring. Seems to me it's more useful to measure the battery voltage when not charging, might as well use two push buttons to connect a single meter to either battery. Of course, knowing the voltage when charging is handy, but it should be the same for both batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I was going to get one of these................... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110434041308&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I was going to get one of these................... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110434041308&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT It's neat enough but it is only an LM3914 chip, 10 LED's and a switch as TSD suggested. I did the same thing (in a very booty fab stylee) with my gauges, this is the prototype: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I have 2 voltmeters for my batteries, 1 is connected to the white ignition controlled wire behind the dash [vehicle came from LR with a factory fitted voltmeter] the 2nd is wired direct to the 2nd Battery via a ignition cntrolled relay so the voltmeter switches off when the engine is shutdown, my relay connection diagram shown below. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general-confusion Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I use the double version shown here http://www.nationalluna.com/newproduct3.htm and have one on ignition switched and the 2nd winch one coming on when the front winch isolator is on....works very well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 centre off double momentory switch? 2 position on/on switch? Had an X-charge - killed it first use of the winch. would i buy another? No. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 centre off double momentory switch? 2 position on/on switch? Had an X-charge - killed it first use of the winch. would i buy another? No. I would suggest you may have a faulty winch. I have run an x-charge for years and (ask anyone on here) I know how to get properly stuck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 More likely a dead/flat battery? If the battery on the winch side of the x-charge were flat, the x-charge relay could get one hell of a kicking while winching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrT Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I use one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dual-Battery-monitor-Dual-DC-Volt-meter-4wd-caravan_W0QQitemZ390095803406QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Gadgets?hash=item5ad385940e&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177 With their backlight off they consume about the same as the clock so can be left attached to the battery 24/7 which is great for monitoring the two batteries when they are disconected with the ignition off. its better than the LED type as you can see a definite number. You should run a pair of dedicated wires from each voltmeter directly to the battery terminals, they don't need to be huge capacity because the impedance of the voltmeter is high. This is the only way to accurately measure the voltage actually at the battery since connecting it elsewhere is susceptible to voltage drop on the wiring supplying both the voltmeter and accessories due the accessories themselves being turned on and loading the wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithjh Posted September 24, 2009 Author Share Posted September 24, 2009 Absolutely!!!! Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 Keith. What sre you using the second battery to power ? mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 what about a couple of these -<Clicky>- cheap enough for the complete kit or for those who have a fear of soldering irons try this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlykepower Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 Ahem.....showing my complete lack of knowledge for the dark arts electronics, but I have yet to fit gauges that allow me to monitor critical items, but when I did touch on the subject with my mechanic, he said that an Ammeter would be more useful than a Voltmeter? What is the difference between the two? What does each one "measure" and is one more useful than the other? I dont know if this is what was being talked about earlier in the thread, but space is an issue for me, and I would not have capacity for mounting a gauge per battery, so fitting only one gauge (either Amps or Volts), is it possible to get a reading from any battery at the push of a button/flick of a switch? For example, 1x Voltmeter/Ammeter showing condition of main battery at all times (when driving) but at the push of a button, I can tell condition of my auxillary battery (not necessarily whilst driving, but say, whilst parked up.) Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 Martin. I'll answer your second question and maybe Keiths at the same time. My set up is for a leasure battery running a fridge and other items with the engine switched off. I have a voltmeter for the main battery..... I have a ENGEL voltmeter for the auxilary battery. This voltmeter also acts to cut off the items from the battery when the volts drop to 11.5 volts...... Battery moniter http://e.dominohosting.biz/dca/mpsdb01.nsf/Refrigeration01!OpenView&RestrictToCategory=ENGEL%20ACCESSORIES There's a picture of it fitted in my truck here...http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=369337.60 Page four if it doesn't go direct. In your case Martin that is what I would recomend for you. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 Voltmeters are generally considered more useful than ammeters as you can infer more from a voltmeter (including amps) than you can from an ammeter. Also, ammeters need a full-capacity (I.E big thick) cable to run to them as they carry the full load of the circuit, where as a voltmeter just needs a skinny wire carrying minimal current (<0.1A). Easiest way to think about amps & volts is like water (or hydraulics): Amps are the volume or flow, and volts are the pressure. The two are related and work done (power, watts) is affected by both. From that example you can imagine that to measure amps (flow) you need to cut into the main cable and stick the ammeter right into the full flow of current. However, to measure volts (pressure) you can tap off a small wire to the gauge because there will be little or no flow of current down it (just enough to move the gauge) but the voltage (pressure) will be basically the same as in the main cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 Also, ammeters need a full-capacity (I.E big thick) cable to run to them as they carry the full load of the circuit No they don't. Shunted ammemeters work just as well and mean small, low current wires can be used to feed the gauge. The main issue will be the quality, or accuracy, of the shunt itself. A voltmeter is certainly easier to install, and useful in its own right, but an ammeter has its place too, especially in a leisure situation where you have a reasonably constant current draw, when an ammeter can easily give you indication of how much capacity remains in the battery. Granted, the choice of instrument is always down to choice, but I would be wary of discrediting the use of an ammeter in every situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3DPE Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 SPAM DELETED Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 What a spam-tastic post! wouldn't a link have been sufficient? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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