landrover598 Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Once i finish making my new shock mounts, relocation cones, turrets, bracketry etc, i'd like to get them coated to stop them rusting.What type of finish is best ? What do you use ? Where do you get them done ? Options so far i can think of :- Galv Powder Passivated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlandy Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Once i finish making my new shock mounts, relocation cones, turrets, bracketry etc, i'd like to get them coated to stop them rusting.What type of finish is best ? What do you use ? Where do you get them done ?Options so far i can think of :- Galv Powder Passivated gold/straw passivate is nice, but is apparently classed as 'highly toxic' ! oo'er Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Galv would get my vote. Minivin likes powder and Mandy would I guess want chav chrome for the bling effect. I think Nige was getting his brackets passivated. Be interrested to know why this might be better than galv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiWhite Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Frosts do a DIY electroplating kit, including a zinc passivating kit HERE. Anyone ever used one? Any good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobes Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 when i bought my mach 5's i paid extra for the 'gold passivate' coating but within a few months the wheels were covered in surface rust. I rang the supplier and was told that passivating isnt a 'final' finish. i always thought it was, which is why i paid the extra. i would be interested to hear if anyone else has had this (i do live on a farm and wonder if some of the 'muck' i drive through caused this) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 was told that passivating isnt a 'final' finish. What about QT arms and such like ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 I haven't found passivating to be a very long lasting robust finish, unlike galv. Power coating is nice when new, but any chips etc and then water gets under a lifts it, also not as easy to touch up as paint. I would paint or galv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 I don't think the paint would last very long on the dislocation cones Looks like i'll be getting them galved the B) B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 yeah I'd go with galv or zinc passivated, or you could always get them Nikasil plated for that extra bit of bling and slippy wear-resistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly Raider Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Mandy would I guess want chav chrome for the bling effect. Been waiting to use this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Good one Mand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 The best, longest lasting, most abrasion resistant is dip galvonizing - but it changes the shape of things (warps), closes up holes , bungs up threads and reduces the overall tolerance of a part. Next is spin galvonizing where the part is dipped and centriguged so only a thn coating of zinc remains - but it is very even and does not have most of the tolerance issues above. Next comes electroplating and zinc passivate. This has poor abrasion resistance and is only really suitable for parts not in direct contact with mud etc. The coating is very thin so the tolerance is pretty much unchanged. Powder coating is very tough and abrasion resistant (compared to paint), but once water gets underneath - it just wicks it all over the place and it very soon turns to a bag of rust. An improvement is zinc sprayed & powder coat. In this case, liquid metal is sprayed on to the surface of the part prior to powder coating. It gives a good surface for the plastic to adhere to and protects from rust even if the surface is broken. Trouble is, it's expensive. This is what my wing bars and winch bumper are coated in. The X-Brakes are coated in Zinc passivate which is not the best - but people associate it with bling and quality. I had some spin galvanised - and nobody wanted them! Two were returned as they wanted the yellow finish??? I sprayed them in yellow laquer (which looks similar) and sent them out again! There are five out there where the coating will last for ever! Any suspension components we make (two planned) will be spin galvanised. Hope this helps a bit. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted April 13, 2006 Author Share Posted April 13, 2006 Thanks for that, very informative B) I found out when i had my chassis dipped that the holes get filled up, but just need drilling out, and i suppose threads can be re-tapped Not too concerened about overall tollerances, after all, I made the parts I'm hoping that the warping shouldn't be too much of a problem, as all the parts are made from 6mm, when my chassis was dipped, some of the 2mm brackets bent slightly, all the 6mm cage mounts were unafected though. Not heard of spin galving before, sounds intersting. I'll ask if they do it at the galving depot down the road Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Spun galv is most commonly used for fasteners. I agree with Simon - hot dipping is the way to go. Plate thickness isn't necessarily the cause of warping. It is normally the release of built in stresses from welding (a galv bath is about 450 degrees C IIRC). A heavily welded item is more likely to warp than a less welded item. Having said that, if the item is designed with dipping in mind you can usually get around this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefcoL Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Next is spin galvonizing where the part is dipped and centriguged so only a thn coating of zinc remains - but it is very even and does not have most of the tolerance issues above. sounds good , what is the largest piece they can do? also is the cost size related or input related..? could you pm me yor post code? TIA Lawrence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 What about having them stove enamaled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 What about having them stove enamaled? thats over kill good thinking but will it not crack on steel not cast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 i don't like that gold finish, as everything i've bought with it on has lasted about 3 months... but i think part of the problem (especially with cheap stuff like steering and diff guards) is the metal is not cleaned or preped properly before coating, things should be spotless, ideally acid dipped, not just wiped with a rag soaked in thinners.. i reckon hot dip galv is the way to go... but i like either powder coat or stove enamel aswell... ..and some epoxy paint finishes are pretty bullet proof, might be good over the 'gold carp' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Just got my axle case doing. Would have liked hot dip galv but filling the thing with galv didn't seem like a good idea. Had it grit blasted and hot zinc powder coated in the end which seemed like a good compromise. Certianly looks a lot less scabby now with the zinc powder and black gloss overcoats Looking fwd to getting it built up and on the truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Whatever you do don't "Orange Coat" them This coating seems to structurally alter the metal, weakens ALL components which then fail early in their working life. I know this is true, so many people have found it the case Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 thats over kill good thinking but will it not crack on steel not cast Works fine on steel, it doesn't warp stuff like hot dip either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troddenmasses Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Sorry to tell you this, but you are all wrong. There is only one coating system worth considering for Land Rovers... It has magical qualities, and will double the value of your vehicle overnight. Add to that, the chap putting it on is fabulous at customer service (Si, you could learn so much here...), a brilliant engineer, and a fabulous communicator. It's so, good in fact, that there are forum threads especially to sing it's praises. Magic coating discussion thread [Tin hat on] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Sorry to tell you this, but you are all wrong. There is only one coating system worth considering for Land Rovers... It has magical qualities, and will double the value of your vehicle overnight. Add to that, the chap putting it on is fabulous at customer service (Si, you could learn so much here...), a brilliant engineer, and a fabulous communicator. It's so, good in fact, that there are forum threads especially to sing it's praises.Magic coating discussion thread [Tin hat on] so much so my works firewall considers it pornographic content, sounds like it's sexed-up to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Whatever you do don't "Orange Coat" themThis coating seems to structurally alter the metal, weakens ALL components which then fail early in their working life. I know this is true, so many people have found it the case Nige indeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troddenmasses Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 so much so my works firewall considers it pornographic content, sounds like it's sexed-up to me Yeah - it would. People get quite worked up as to the wonderful 'qualitites' of the coating on there..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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