Wheel hub locking nuts

[Mutley]

Ok guys We are looking for the spanner, socket, tool for taking both locking nuts of the front wheel hub, what tool do I need how much and where from?........And if stupidly expensive how else can I remove the nuts without causing any damage?

As always apologies if this has been covered before.

Cheers Mutley

[scube]

http://shop.difflock.com/land-rover-spanner-plain-p-33.html

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/RANGE_ROVER_to_1985/Axle/Hub_nut_spanner_%28_for_use_with_bar%29.html

every tool box should have one.

You can even get one for Air tools.. !

[Maverik]

Fleebay... nice n cheap... just replacing my nuts as some ejit used a chisel on them last time...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-HUB-NUT-BOX-SPANNER-/190385610471?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c53dddee7

[Aragorn]

I find the box spanner a bit useless. The nuts are supposed to be torqued up to a certain value if you want to do the job properly, but you cant really attach the box spanner to a torque wrench, nor can you swing on it all that easily with some bits of bar cobbled together to loosen them off.

I would just buy a proper socket, something like this: http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=SX010

Only question is if it will be deep enough.

[western]

needs to be as long as the box spanner, never had any problem with getting the nuts right on my 110.

[errol209]

I find the box spanner a bit useless. The nuts are supposed to be torqued up to a certain value if you want to do the job properly, but you cant really attach the box spanner to a torque wrench, nor can you swing on it all that easily with some bits of bar cobbled together to loosen them off.

*** GAP IN MARKET ALERT ***

A recent thread covered this too, and someone suggested welding a strip accross the back and tacking on an old 1/2 drive socket. Strikes me that a bit of 20 x 5 flat strip, with a 1/2 square hole in, tacked on would do just as well?

[Bowie69]

There's no gap in the market, Difflock have a 52mm socket that is plenty deep enough and 1/2" square drive....

I had a box spanner, bloody horrible thing, especially with slightly greasy fingers the tommy bar just slips out and you loose yet more skin off your knuckles -if you're not careful

Difflock socket = job done, no hassle

[errol209]

There's no gap in the market, Difflock have a 52mm socket that is plenty deep enough and 1/2" square drive....

Bugger. Back to the other world dmination schemes then ...

[Maverik]

I wouldn't bother torqueing, you get a lot better idea doing it by feel, over tighten - then back it off.

[Aragorn]

The inner nut should be done by feel or with a dial guage.

The outer nut requires torquing up (or at least done up very tight) in order to lock it all together and stop things moving.

[Retroanaconda]

I generally go by feel on the inner nut (usually happens to be about as tight as I can get it with just my hand on the box spanner), and then the outer one FT with a bar through the box spanner. I'd love one of those 1/2" drive socket thingamajigs, but I'm tight!

Like the idea of welding a bit of flat across though, might give that a go

[jbs]

*** GAP IN MARKET ALERT ***A recent thread covered this too, and someone suggested welding a strip accross the back and tacking on an old 1/2 drive socket. Strikes me that a bit of 20 x 5 flat strip, with a 1/2 square hole in, tacked on would do just as well?

That'd be me then, I was sick and tired of not getting the right torque wrench settings for doing my locknut's up properly so I did what I usually do-I improvised! and came up with that,And the correct setting for the lock nut's are 50 NM's then back off to 90o then re-tighten to 10NM's from the backed off 90o point

HTH

John

[mmgemini]

The lock washer correctly fitted should hold the two nuts in the correct position. Why the need to overtighten the lock nut. Water pump pliers have always been good enough for me.

[Milemarker Type S]

As above Difflock sell 3 kinds of sockets for 52mm hub nuts- 1/2" drive socket, 3/4" drive/ tommy bar box spanner and a basic tommy bar box spanner.

Si

[Retroanaconda]

Looking at their website it says that the 1/2" drive socket is for the Disco II / P38 axle staked nuts, are they the same size as normal Land Rover locknuts?

[Milemarker Type S]

Yes they are all 52mm- the 1/2" drive version is not as deep as the box spanners so has issues with the wider hubs as fitted to later defenders etc.

[Mutley]

Geee you guys are GOOD

Thank you all you've been a great help

Cheers Mutley

[sean f]

I think there is a little confusion on the need to torque the hub nut.

The late (TD5 on I think but ready to be corrected) axles are supposed to have a space between the inner bearings and the hub nut torques, to adjust out any play in the bearing, different size spacers and shims are added or removed.

Most people who change the bearings look at the spacer once and throw it away, possible with out realising what it is and install the hub nuts as on previous models, I have never heard of this causing any problem.

[Maverik]

The late (TD5 on I think but ready to be corrected) axles are supposed to have a space between the inner bearings and the hub nut torques, to adjust out any play in the bearing, different size spacers and shims are added or removed.

Could you elaborate on this? - as from the parts book, there is a washer between the outer bearing and the first nut. then the locking shim which you bend over the nut faces when tight.

The only spacers in the wheel hub assembly (to my knowledge) are the ones used to pack out the CV joint spindal when it pops through the driving member, as to put the CV joint in the right place inside the swival and so the half shaft doesn't protrude to far inside the diff assembly?

[Retroanaconda]

Look in Microcat, it lists the coloured shims for Td5-style locknuts.

[101sean]

Yea, Td5 uses a bearing spacer and a single stake nut which are best lobbed in the bin and replaced with the usual locking nuts and tab washer as god intended.