Mutley Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Ok guys We are looking for the spanner, socket, tool for taking both locking nuts of the front wheel hub, what tool do I need how much and where from?........And if stupidly expensive how else can I remove the nuts without causing any damage? As always apologies if this has been covered before. Cheers Mutley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scube Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 http://shop.difflock.com/land-rover-spanner-plain-p-33.html http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/RANGE_ROVER_to_1985/Axle/Hub_nut_spanner_%28_for_use_with_bar%29.html every tool box should have one. You can even get one for Air tools.. ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Fleebay... nice n cheap... just replacing my nuts as some ejit used a chisel on them last time... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-HUB-NUT-BOX-SPANNER-/190385610471?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c53dddee7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I find the box spanner a bit useless. The nuts are supposed to be torqued up to a certain value if you want to do the job properly, but you cant really attach the box spanner to a torque wrench, nor can you swing on it all that easily with some bits of bar cobbled together to loosen them off. I would just buy a proper socket, something like this: http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=SX010 Only question is if it will be deep enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 needs to be as long as the box spanner, never had any problem with getting the nuts right on my 110. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I find the box spanner a bit useless. The nuts are supposed to be torqued up to a certain value if you want to do the job properly, but you cant really attach the box spanner to a torque wrench, nor can you swing on it all that easily with some bits of bar cobbled together to loosen them off. *** GAP IN MARKET ALERT *** A recent thread covered this too, and someone suggested welding a strip accross the back and tacking on an old 1/2 drive socket. Strikes me that a bit of 20 x 5 flat strip, with a 1/2 square hole in, tacked on would do just as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 There's no gap in the market, Difflock have a 52mm socket that is plenty deep enough and 1/2" square drive.... I had a box spanner, bloody horrible thing, especially with slightly greasy fingers the tommy bar just slips out and you loose yet more skin off your knuckles -if you're not careful Difflock socket = job done, no hassle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 There's no gap in the market, Difflock have a 52mm socket that is plenty deep enough and 1/2" square drive.... Bugger. Back to the other world dmination schemes then ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I wouldn't bother torqueing, you get a lot better idea doing it by feel, over tighten - then back it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 The inner nut should be done by feel or with a dial guage. The outer nut requires torquing up (or at least done up very tight) in order to lock it all together and stop things moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I generally go by feel on the inner nut (usually happens to be about as tight as I can get it with just my hand on the box spanner), and then the outer one FT with a bar through the box spanner. I'd love one of those 1/2" drive socket thingamajigs, but I'm tight! Like the idea of welding a bit of flat across though, might give that a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 *** GAP IN MARKET ALERT ***A recent thread covered this too, and someone suggested welding a strip accross the back and tacking on an old 1/2 drive socket. Strikes me that a bit of 20 x 5 flat strip, with a 1/2 square hole in, tacked on would do just as well? That'd be me then, I was sick and tired of not getting the right torque wrench settings for doing my locknut's up properly so I did what I usually do-I improvised! and came up with that,And the correct setting for the lock nut's are 50 NM's then back off to 90o then re-tighten to 10NM's from the backed off 90o point HTH John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 The lock washer correctly fitted should hold the two nuts in the correct position. Why the need to overtighten the lock nut. Water pump pliers have always been good enough for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 As above Difflock sell 3 kinds of sockets for 52mm hub nuts- 1/2" drive socket, 3/4" drive/ tommy bar box spanner and a basic tommy bar box spanner. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Looking at their website it says that the 1/2" drive socket is for the Disco II / P38 axle staked nuts, are they the same size as normal Land Rover locknuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Yes they are all 52mm- the 1/2" drive version is not as deep as the box spanners so has issues with the wider hubs as fitted to later defenders etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Geee you guys are GOOD Thank you all you've been a great help Cheers Mutley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 I think there is a little confusion on the need to torque the hub nut. The late (TD5 on I think but ready to be corrected) axles are supposed to have a space between the inner bearings and the hub nut torques, to adjust out any play in the bearing, different size spacers and shims are added or removed. Most people who change the bearings look at the spacer once and throw it away, possible with out realising what it is and install the hub nuts as on previous models, I have never heard of this causing any problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 The late (TD5 on I think but ready to be corrected) axles are supposed to have a space between the inner bearings and the hub nut torques, to adjust out any play in the bearing, different size spacers and shims are added or removed. Could you elaborate on this? - as from the parts book, there is a washer between the outer bearing and the first nut. then the locking shim which you bend over the nut faces when tight. The only spacers in the wheel hub assembly (to my knowledge) are the ones used to pack out the CV joint spindal when it pops through the driving member, as to put the CV joint in the right place inside the swival and so the half shaft doesn't protrude to far inside the diff assembly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Look in Microcat, it lists the coloured shims for Td5-style locknuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Yea, Td5 uses a bearing spacer and a single stake nut which are best lobbed in the bin and replaced with the usual locking nuts and tab washer as god intended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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