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Gear/Bearing Pullers


Aragorn
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So i've stripped my LT230Q down and plan to rebuild it with nice new shiney parts.

As such its time to invest in some decent gear pullers.

Can anyone recommend any particular type?

I was thinking of getting something like this:

http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php/sealey-ak79-gear-puller-triple-p-5320

Then perhaps: http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php/sealey-ps984-double-mechanical-bearing-separator-p-5346

But i've also seen this: http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php/sealey-ps992-slide-hammer-gearbearing-puller-p-5354

Now clearly i dont really want to spend £200 on 3 different sets of gear pullers, but some advice on which types are most useful would be good! If it DOES end up that i need all three, then so be it, its still cheaper than paying to have the box reconned, and means i have them on the shelf for the next thing that comes along (probably the R380!)

Cheers

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Admitedly I've never done a gearbox, so something may be required that's a little more specialist.

On pullers however, I'd recommend getting a hydraulic set. Something like this: http://www.shacktools.com/draper-tools-50094-10-tonne-hydraulic-puller-kit-p-18562.html?osCsid=1eae44fc62284c7855c6fe3bad065bbc

In the centre of the puller is a hydraulic piston. This allows you to exert 10 tonnes of pulling force with minimal effort. It also means the inside bit doesn't turn as you are pulling the gear/bearing off the shaft which saves damage to the shaft and stops the point 'walking' around as you tighten.

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Hi,

As you say you may need some specialist attachments for the transfer box, but a hydraulic puller is definitely the way to go as it exerts a lot more force, but do gearbox parts need a lot of force to dismantle? A hydralic puller is also handy for removing the steering drop arm and seized bolts in chassis' etc.

Steve

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Yep i think your right jon, three leg puller is probably all i need for the LT230, although i also need to invest in a DTI for setup.

I like the looks of that hydraulic set though, so maybe thats the one to go for!

I'll see what else is available in the hydraulic range!

Cheers.

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I have a Mac tools hydraulic one and it is brilliant, once you have one you will wonder how you ever managed without.

I used it the other day to pull the seized on drums off the back of a Bedford TK (they were so seized it wouldnt move!!), it didn't have any problems at all.

Most come with a ball joint splitter attachment and 3/4 sizes of legs. Some can also be used as either a 2 leg or a 3leg

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So i've stripped my LT230Q down and plan to rebuild it with nice new shiney parts.

As such its time to invest in some decent gear pullers.

Can anyone recommend any particular type?

I was thinking of getting something like this:

http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php/sealey-ak79-gear-puller-triple-p-5320

Then perhaps: http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php/sealey-ps984-double-mechanical-bearing-separator-p-5346

But i've also seen this: http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php/sealey-ps992-slide-hammer-gearbearing-puller-p-5354

Now clearly i dont really want to spend £200 on 3 different sets of gear pullers, but some advice on which types are most useful would be good! If it DOES end up that i need all three, then so be it, its still cheaper than paying to have the box reconned, and means i have them on the shelf for the next thing that comes along (probably the R380!)

Cheers

Same ones for half the price?

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht270-3-pce-gear-puller-set

Pete

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When it comes to removing bearings from say the input shaft, you really want the bearing separator (middle one you linked to). I have a hydraulic version of that style from Sealey. Not sure if it's this model or another, but you get the idea.

I'm not saying you can do it other ways, but this is far easier, and is less likely to cause any damage to the parts. A proper separator will ensure you get a straight, even pull, which is even more important when you use it to press the new bearings on.

The 2 or 3 leg type will not be able to get behind the bearing to get any purchase.

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I would recomend the hydraulic bearing seperater as recomended by Mickeyw! has many other uses eg diff brgs, main box brgs etc, we have at least a couple of these, have had no sucess with 'leg' type pullers, but to each his own.

Ian Ashcroft

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 Ah very timely

Ian I am in the middle of trying to diy fit one of your ratio upgrade kits (great service from your folks btw) and am stuck at the point of removing the bearing off the diff shaft. I was able to get the nut off with a homemade tool but there seems to be no way to get any kind of puller in between the bearing and the hi-range gear bush. I notice the correct LRT appears to clamp around the bearing cone? 

I have one of the separators as described above but the biggest one I can find locally (3in) seems to be too small:

post-4308-079180400 1286371498_thumb.jpg

post-4308-062528500 1286371509_thumb.jpg

post-4308-000649800 1286371523_thumb.jpg

Do you think this will be doable if I can get my hands on a 4in separator? It seems like it would need a *very* sharp knife edge to get between the bearing and the bush. My other option is to try pulling the hi-range gear + bearing off as one with a 3-leg

TBH I am about to throw in the towel and take the whole thing down to the dealer - although I'm not sure even they have the LRT-xx-xx to do this   

Thanks and best regards

John H.

--

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Hi John sorry to hear of your dilema, as you have found out there is no way to get behind this brg, usually this particular bearing is a slide fit on the shaft (did not have time to look up the Haynes ref for slide fit that does'nt but I am sure there is one), remove the nut as you have done, hold the assembly vertical with high gear down, now bump the whole thing down onto the bench. The weight of the high gear is usually enough to move the brg. If this does not work, do you have access to a hyd press??, two bars under the high range gear and press on the top. If non of that works you will need to destroy the brg or buy the special tool. Unfortunately this brg does spin and weld itself to the shaft sometimes!!*. You did'nt say where you are located? bring it in or send it and we will do it FOC.

Regards Ian Ashcroft

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Many thanks Ian, unfortunately I'm over in Canada - else I'd have brought it to you in the first place (or just swapped a complete 1.4 box). I'm from E. Herts originally though, my grandad apprenticed as an ag eng somewhere in Beds I think

I'll give it another go using your tips -I don't have a hydraulic press but I think I can get access to one, if it's OK to press/pull on the hi-range gear then I have a fairly tame mechanic just up the road who can probably do that for me. I just had him do all my suspension bushes.

Do you happen to know the Timken or SKF equivalent for that one btw? I ordered new i/p gear bearings from you but I didn't think to order this one - I can probably get it locally if I know the number

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Ian thanks again for your help - I have now managed to remove it using your suggestions above - got a new one on hold for me at the local shop

Aragorn apologies for hijacking your thread - mods feel free to clean up as apropriate

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  • 1 month later...

I have a Mac tools hydraulic one and it is brilliant, once you have one you will wonder how you ever managed without.

I used it the other day to pull the seized on drums off the back of a Bedford TK (they were so seized it wouldnt move!!), it didn't have any problems at all.

Most come with a ball joint splitter attachment and 3/4 sizes of legs. Some can also be used as either a 2 leg or a 3leg

Hey mate,

I got a mac tools puller set of ebay recently too. I was wondering do you happen to have the origional manual and if so, could I have a copy? Also, is it oil in the piston or grease?

Thanks,

H.

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Personally, I value not having the legs flop around more than having/not having hydraulics. The "normal" 3-legged ones can be made to work, but I find them overly fiddly trying to get them on and off, which tends to send my blood pressure through the roof.

I got some caged ones and I'd never look back. (The cage keeps the legs aligned as you apply or remove the puller.)

Two caveats: they're rather more expensive the the uncaged variety, and the only gearbox I've done was a Hewland racing box where everything slides out for easy gear changes.

Anyway, here's a picture of one pulling the driving flange off a water pump.

Oct2010-water-pump-drive-flange-removal.jpg

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No worries, its all good info!

I've seen this: http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Hydraulic-Puller-Set-25pc-Sealey-PS982

Which seems to tick all the boxes! Just need to save up for it now!

I have that exact same set from sealey i paid a bit more than that for them just over a year ago. bought them to replace my sykes pickavant set that cost me silly money. I found the sealey set to be just as good as the sykes set. I have used them regularly to pull hubs and gears of plant and hgv's and they have never let me down.

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