Snagger Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 The servo's push rod is adjustable, hence the hex flats. The Haynes manuals state not to adjust them as they're factory set, but I have done so in the past to improve braking efficiency where the servo tolerances seemed bad. I had rebuilt my callipers before fitting them, so had no sticky pistons to worry about. It does seem like your fault is the servo rod adjustment, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 (edited) I thought it might be adjustable, but haven't tried yet, need the 110 for work, so it'll have to do until this weekend, servo has been on for sometime, the original one gave up working, I didn't have any problem with the rear drums getting hot or dragging. in addition to the above, found my original servo in the garage, tried adjusting the rod on it but there is no way to safely hold the rod without creating damage to adjust it. so not convinced it is easily adjuatable. Edited June 29, 2013 by western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 (edited) haven't done anymore adjusting yet, weather is pants down here, I did swap the 1mm washers for 1.6 between servo & master cylinder, brakes work fine, not dragging/sticking on & not creating unwanted heating, pedal is a bit long for my liking though, but I can live with it, I've obtained a complete working 300tdi brake pedal/servo/master cylinder, so think if I fit it & re-pipe the brakes to suit, wondering if it'll cure the problem, won't swap it until after I've got the rear calipers centred as good as possible. further info has come to light, the original master cylinder [stored in my garage] has a plastic retaining circlip for the piston asembly, this means the piston end the servo rod presses on when brakes are applied is further in the cylinder bore than the current master cylinder, & both are different design at the servo end, current one does not have the grooves for the plastic circlip to fit in, I think I've found the problem, so I'll fit new seals to the original MC & refit it, remove my 1.6mm spacers & see what happens with the rear calipers when bled & used. results to follow, Edited June 29, 2013 by western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 lateset instalment, managed to adjust the servo pushrod, was a bit tight but got it adjusted now with 1.7mm gap between master cylinder piston end & servo pushrod end, hi-tech measuring kit a blob of blue-tac then pushed MC up in place & measured the blue-tac, so I'm a bit happier the rear brakes won't drag anymore, lets see how it goes on the way to work tomorrow. still need to fine adjust the rear calipers to centralise them around the discs, but not to much of a hurry for that now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Well i've had no progress with mine either. Tried to swap the incorrect rear disks out today, took about 10mins to get the hub off and on the bench, at which point the landrover gods clearly decided my day was going too well so promptly sheared two of the disk retaining bolts. One snapped in such a way that half its head was still holding the disk on, so cue about an hour of smashing, swearing, drilling, grinding and chiselling to get the disk off. Eventually got the disk out the way (and damaged it to the point that the brand new unused disk went straight into the scrap pile) and set about trying to remove the two sheared bolts. First one was sticking out, so i welded a M12 nut on and it wound out almost by hand... Second one was sheared about 5mm below the surface, so i didnt want to risk welding it. Drilled thru (i really need to get myself a pillar drill ) and went looking for my stud extractors. Ofcourse they were nowhere to be found, so i hammered in a T30 torx, crossed things and gave it a tweak. And ofcourse snapped the T30. Managed to punch that out from the other side, drilled it bigger and hammered in a T40, roasted it with the blowtorch and it wound out by hand... Ran a tap down the threads and cleaned the hub up with a file to remove some marks from the disk removal so its all ready to go. So after about 4 hours, i've now got a 3 legged landy, a hub on the bench, and no disk retaining bolts. Interestingly, the bolts looked very chinese (shame i didnt notice this when i fitted them!!), no manufacturers stamp, and sort of shonky looking "12.9" stampings. I'm sort of glad that i've discovered this, and i'll replace them with genuine bolts, dont fancy my brake disks being held with chinese chocolate bolts. Not looking forward to the other side, I think i'll give the hub a good roasting with the blowtorch to try and free up the loctite before trying to remove them, and i'm going to have to remove the front hubs and check the bolts on the front to see if they're the same unmarked carp (they were bought at a different time, so hopefully not) Geh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 I've some 10 spare used disc retainer bolts from my 110 if you want them, , happy to post, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Cheers for the offer, but i've got a gearbox gaiter to order anyway, so i'll just nail 10 new bolts on the order. Just means some more days waiting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 OK, there in my garage if you have problems getting some Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 OK, there in my garage if you have problems getting some i don't suppose you got 4 caliper bolts do you? i forgot to order them when i ordered the calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Sorry, I don't have any spares of those, I had to buy 4 for my conversion, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 adjusting the servo pushrod seems to have cured my dragging rear brakes, the system worked well going to/from work today,braking is brilliant again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 A quick "well done" to the guys at thexmod.com, ordered a boot for my gearbox, and the 10 bolts, all genuine landrover parts, for way less than the usual outlets wanted for genuine bits. Ordered yesterday morning and they arrived today. Well Chuffed! (i should add, no affiliation, just a pleased customer wanting to share a less well known parts outlet!) Just need to get them nailed together now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Sorry, I don't have any spares of those, I had to buy 4 for my conversion, got a part number by any change? (M12x1.25) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 part number for the caliper bolts is FTC3375 / SYP500090 thexmod have some of those too as it happens, again pretty cheap too: http://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=2544 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 part number for the caliper bolts is FTC3375 / SYP500090thexmod have some of those too as it happens, again pretty cheap too: http://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=2544 thanks, i got them from ebay as there half the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 really? They're 60p each on that website and £1.60 a pair on ebay... and the ebay ones aint genuine either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 really? They're 60p each on that website and £1.60 a pair on ebay...and the ebay ones aint genuine either! no i know. but that website wants £7 delivery!! thats makes the 4 bolts cost £10... as apposed to £4.98. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 oh weird! Should have given them a call. My 10 bolts and boot was a fiver for post iirc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 One side rectified! Disk on: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4qmdmdy358dh7f8/IMG_20130702_172111.jpg Hub refitted: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ob6bs8apxyi3mdy/IMG_20130702_172542.jpg Much more sensible clearance: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2na6ft8c8rjojpg/IMG_20130702_172551.jpg Caliper installed and sitting square on the disk: https://www.dropbox.com/s/f6fnocgojhihn89/IMG_20130702_173554.jpg Just need to do the same to the other side (which means moving the engine and pushing the landrover outside to remove the long shaft!), and figure out some issues with my braided brake hoses that dont fit properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 good progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Grab yourself a bargain... Calliper axle brackets at a very good price... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121198234277?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Been on my conversion today, slowly coming together. Couple of things worth mentioning. The spacers I made were 6mm bang on. Once the caliper is snugged up i need another 1mm to center the disc in the middle of the caliper or not bother. For the effort i might just shim the caliper using a spring steel shim on each of the caliper pads. Using original early drum stub axles, 200tdi front hubs, 110 hd mintex discs and stc1268/9 calipers. Bolts for the caliper brackets were (per side) 2x 48mm M10 8.8 Set Screw 2x 58-60mm M10 8.8 Set Screw with 2x M10 nyloc 8.8 2x 35mm M10 8.8 Setc Screw with 2x M10 nyloc 8.8 Bought 50mm Bolt and 60mm Bolt but unthreaded portions will not go into axle bracket enough, So needs set screws fully threaded. The outer edges of the 6mm spacers MUST be flush in line with the radius of the caliper bracket or the disc will foul the radius portion. the inside by the axle tube is not as critical. RTC 3511 oil seals need to be tapped in gently with another scrap rtc3511, to obtain one first try to fit seal using a block of wood. which collapses the seal nicely. The seal inner lip needs to be under the lip by 1mm-the main lip should be recessed by 4-5mm. Don't forget to put the greased wheel bearing in first. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 wonder why I had to use 10mm caliper bracket spacers, probably down to the early 110 front hubs [pre 200tdi], & the frc7329 discs, I used the same caliper brackets & calipers as you have done. there must be a difference in the disc centre part measurement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I used FRC6139 hubs, and hd 110/130 solid rear discs they were allmakes, FRC7329 listed as front/rear disc same part i have. Stubs FRC8540 I bought 2 new ones as my old ones had ridges/rust where the oil seal was leaking. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 according to my parts book, the hubs are same as yours fitted to the original rear stubs FRC8540, just can't figure out why I needed the 10mm spacers, tried 6mm but caliper no brake pads when bolted up fouled the disc surface & stopped the disc rotating, with 10mm spacer disc sat centrally of caliper. all working well anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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