nickwilliams Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 That kit cost me about GBP 72 plus Vat, inc. shipping, from Rimmer Bros. I've got an old steering lock which came off my 90 which (assuming I can put it back together - it's currently in bits on my work bench) you can have to try if you like. It only has one key, but you can get some more cut. It's fully working - I took it off when I lost the key in the snow one year, but I later found it. Yours for the cost of the postage. Drop me a PM with your details if you are interested. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Excellent news, that is too what I shall order One on e-blag right now. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 It's not a problem Nick, I did it and it works fine Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Well, I went ahead and bought CWB500630, and this is what I got in the box: The problem now is that the ignition switch does not have a pre-heat position like my old one (from the original 2.5TD engine installation) so I'm going to have to fit a glow plug relay in order to make this work. Will write it all up properly when I've finished. Nick. When it came to fitting the new barrels in the doors did you buy new handles and a new rear door lock? I don't suppose you remember what the differences were? I've ordered the same kit and I was wondering if modifying the old handles would be possible, I've seen a diagram in rave that shows the locking sleeve in the old handle is removeable so I was considering making a longer one to accommodate the longer barrels. Not sure if it would be possible to mod the rear door lock.... but if I can save the cost of the new handles that'll be a bonus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Well I've fitted the ignition barrel, took a bit of playing with the meter to work out what went where as the numbers are different on the back compared to my old switch and I don't have a wiring diagram for a my2002 defender. Anyone that has fitted one of these care to comment on my wiring? The car does start and everything seems ok so I guess it is pretty much right. 1) White with red stripe (Crank) 2) Brown (Live Supply) 3) White (Switched live/live while cranking) 4/5) White with orange (Switched live/off while cranking) Next the door barrels..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 When it came to fitting the new barrels in the doors did you buy new handles and a new rear door lock? I don't suppose you remember what the differences were? I've ordered the same kit and I was wondering if modifying the old handles would be possible, I've seen a diagram in rave that shows the locking sleeve in the old handle is removeable so I was considering making a longer one to accommodate the longer barrels. Not sure if it would be possible to mod the rear door lock.... but if I can save the cost of the new handles that'll be a bonus Sorry for the delay in replying - I've had a busy few days and did not notice your posting. I put a complete new rear door on my vehicle, including a new door lock with central locking. The new, longer, key barrels won't fit into the older style rear door lock. As far as the front doors are concerned, I have decided to do away with the keys for them, and rely on the central locking, with just the rear door as the 'emergency' way into the vehicle, so I can't help you much there either, I'm afraid. I do recall that when I took the old handles off, the screws had seized into the brass insert in the plastic handle moulding, so I had to get new handles any way. Your wiring colours look right. Did you fit a glow plug relay? Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 Well I've fitted the ignition barrel, took a bit of playing with the meter to work out what went where as the numbers are different on the back compared to my old switch and I don't have a wiring diagram for a my2002 defender. Anyone that has fitted one of these care to comment on my wiring? The car does start and everything seems ok so I guess it is pretty much right. 1) White with red stripe (Crank) 2) Brown (Live Supply) 3) White (Switched live/live while cranking) 4/5) White with orange (Switched live/off while cranking) Next the door barrels..... the white/orange is the feed for air condition system, you can use this as a live feed for other things if no air con fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 13, 2011 Share Posted November 13, 2011 Sorry for the delay in replying - I've had a busy few days and did not notice your posting. I put a complete new rear door on my vehicle, including a new door lock with central locking. The new, longer, key barrels won't fit into the older style rear door lock. As far as the front doors are concerned, I have decided to do away with the keys for them, and rely on the central locking, with just the rear door as the 'emergency' way into the vehicle, so I can't help you much there either, I'm afraid. I do recall that when I took the old handles off, the screws had seized into the brass insert in the plastic handle moulding, so I had to get new handles any way. Your wiring colours look right. Did you fit a glow plug relay? Nick. I do have a glow plug relay it was fitted by a previous owner which was fortunate I have spent this evening playing with the drivers door handle and have managed to modify the existing handle to take the new longer barrel. I made a new longer 'cradle' that the barrel sits in and had to bore out the outside of the handle a bit as the head of the new barrel is bigger than the old one. I also bored the inside of the handle as the new cradle has to poke through. Hmmm, I'll take some pictures when I do the passenger side one .... worth a thousand words and all that Anyway the drivers door lock is working much better with the new barrel, although that wouldn't be hard as it had got to the stage that I was struggling to find something that wouldn't open the old lock Assuming the passenger door lock goes according to plan (fingers crossed the inserts don't spin) I won't be too heartbroken about buying a new rear door lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 13, 2011 Share Posted November 13, 2011 the white/orange is the feed for air condition system, you can use this as a live feed for other things if no air con fitted. I think the radio has been wired up to use it in mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorrick Posted November 13, 2011 Share Posted November 13, 2011 Hi Their Finally found a key you can get cut to make a spare TD5 Fuel Cap Key. It is a HD-LF16. Most of the key cutting shops have them.When I first started looking for a spare I was told it was a special and was easier to get a replacement Cap complete. But with the help of a friendly key cutter he found the above. Had it copied and all works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Just a few pictures to show how I modded my old passenger door handle to take the larger post 2002 barrel. This is how the handle looked before I started messing with it.. The new barrel on the left is significantly larger in both length and diameter I made a new sleeve out of some aluminium on the lathe, 36mm long, 16mm external diameter. Bored 10mm diameter straight through and then counter bored 1/2" diameter to a depth of 31mm. As the new sleeve needs to poke out the back of the handle we need to machine away the back of the hole in the handle... Before After (you can see the two ribs that stop the sleeve from spinning in this pic) The front of the hole in the handle needs enlarging to 19.5mm to take the larger face of the new barrel and the ribs inside the hole need to be removed to a depth of 11mm at a diameter of 16mm to clear the new barrel. Now the handle has been prepared we can cut the slots in the sleeve that will sit over the ribs inside the handle barrel hole, may as well do the slots for the barrel wafers while we are it (the longer slots). The new sleeve is designed to be inserted from the back of the handle whereas the old was inserted from the front. cont..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Finished handle assembled again New bigger barrel face doesn't look too silly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Blimey, the new rear door lock is 78 pounds! fingers crossed that the old one can be modified Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Well I've started on the rear door lock, kind of wish I hadn't but I'll finish it now. Here's pics of so far, mostly dismantling. Hopefully finish it over the next evening or two. First knock these four rivets out, these just hold the two halves together when it's not bolted to the door as the door bolts go through both bits. A few pics of the various parts of the dismantled lock. A few years of dirt inside here Looks a bit worse for wear, the slotted part is integral to the lock holder unlike the other door handles. You can just see the back of the old barrel in the middle of the hole. The bit that actually opens the lock The actuator will need 17mm cut from it's length New barrel holder is almost completed, it's longer than the old one as it will extend inside the lock to support the shortened actuator. Bigger recess to take the bigger face of the new lock barrel, putting the slots in almost led me to self harm.... keyways using a lathe = not fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Nice work wabbit. I have a cylinder that matches my ignition to go in my drivers door but it looks like I'll be buying the bits ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 It's not so bad if you are just buying the one handle, but I needed two handles and a rear door lock... which comes to around £150 in total so I'm taking the pikey approach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Cwazy you are a genius.... I am marvelled at your capabilities...(thanks for your advice) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 I've still got the old lock off my (old style alu skin) door if you need it to cannibalise for parts. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 Cheers for the offer Nick But looks like I've managed to make mine work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Finally finished it Last bit of machining of the new part, two flats on the side and a hole to release the pin that holds the barrel in. Then the actuator had to be shortened All the barrel parts fitted together Removed the old barrel holder from the front plate of the lock Cleaned the rust off it and welded the new barrel holder in While it was still in bits I removed all the dirt and twigs out of the lock mechanism A bit of paint and riveted it back together.... Had to give it another splash of paint before refitting to the door as I knocked some of the paint off doing the rivet bashing. Anyway, it's all done and working.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 I was not looking forward to this when I fitted a Td5 door to my 300Tdi, but the 97 ignition key seemed to work in the new lock, so bonus. (whether this means a screw driver would also work i'm not sure...) A nice bit of work you did there to get it all working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 That probably means that any ignition key will open it Sloppy manufacturing tolerances and the fact that the barrels use wafers (same rubbish as in filing cabinets) means security is not good. I did try my old ignition key and it didn't open any of the new barrels..... yet.... maybe once there is a bit of wear they will Still at least all my barrels accept the same key now and don't require wiggling to make them work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 The key to my roof box opened all the locks on my Landrover! Funny thing was it had the same impressed number as the original Landrover key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 The key to my roof box opened all the locks on my Landrover! Funny thing was it had the same impressed number as the original Landrover key. Can't we keep these secretes to ourselves?? On watchers will start getting ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 They're hardly secrets Dan, the Defender's insecurity is legendary Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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