GBMUD Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 I am seeking to build a 300Tdi 90 project. The ultimate goal is to make something as refined as possible while still being a reasonable green lane/light off-road truck. I plan (as time goes on and budget allows) to fit auto, AC, a decent interior and lots of sound proofing. As part of the long term aim I intend to try to build in some rust proof-ness in the form of a galvanized chassis and possibly bulkhead too (though I may just go for a new bulkhead and lots of waxoyl!) and I may as well do this from the start. With this in mind from the start I think I will be best off seeking a rusty MOT failed 90 with decent mechanicals - and ideally serviceable bodywork! Given what I plan it is a shame that buying just a V5 would not be a legal option as buying bits and doing a new build is an attractive option but I do not want the hassle of SVA/IVA so I need to start with an existing vehicle. So, the question is: What should I pay for a mechanically sound 300Tdi 90 with a rotten chassis/bulkhead? Any other comments? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 I know this might seem daft, but look around the coastal areas for one, as many use these for getting boats / jetskis etc in and out and the saly water wrecks the chassis, this way you can get a nice tidy 90 thats just a rotten as a pear For some "Decent" but MOT failed vs a Nasty shed with No MOT you'll pay more, but it will be the classic "To Nice to Break" Value wise,200s/ 300s still fetch good money when broken for conponent part, I would except Sheds at 800+ but a "To nice to break" shed at £1200+ Also worth cosidering looking at an accident damaged one, esp for a re-chassis ? get a lot for your £s that way ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 An earlier 2.5 one would be much cheaper, 300TDi will fetch a premium. A mate bought an ancient 2.5 110 that'd been a farm hack a while back, chassis was dust but the body was straighter than many leaving the factory, even had the MOD alloy door tops! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy V8 Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 There's a couple of 90's on ebay around the 1k mark with rusty chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 I would allow up to £1200, Chris. Save EVERYTHING from the stripdown to save having to buy expensive insignificant fly**** later Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 An earlier 2.5 one would be much cheaper, 300TDi will fetch a premium. A mate bought an ancient 2.5 110 that'd been a farm hack a while back, chassis was dust but the body was straighter than many leaving the factory, even had the MOD alloy door tops! Then you could add a crispy disco 300tdi auto with a/c and a lot of your bits would be there; if you go straight to auto you avoid worrying about r380 shift positions etc. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Does a 300Tdi not go on different engine mounts to a TD - the 300Tdi mounts much further forward? I need the new chassis to be a like-for-like replacement and it will not be will it if I start with a TD? I may as well start out with a V5! I need to start out with a 300Tdi 90. Remember, I need to avoid being liable for IVA/SVA. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 I wouldn't have said different engine mounts would negate the 'like-for-like' qualification. I wouldn't have any hesitation in buying an old 2.5 TD or N/A 90 and putting a new galvanised chassis and 300Tdi in it on the same reg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 buy mine, I'll even throw in an auto backplate for the engine!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 <awful truth mode> Yes, you may as well start with a V5 for all it really affects anyone. </awful truth mode> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Does a 300Tdi not go on different engine mounts to a TD - the 300Tdi mounts much further forward? I need the new chassis to be a like-for-like replacement and it will not be will it if I start with a TD? I may as well start out with a V5! I need to start out with a 300Tdi 90. Remember, I need to avoid being liable for IVA/SVA. Chris Yes, the TD mounts are further back. I had to make new ones when I converted mine to 300/Auto. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 <awful truth mode> Yes, you may as well start with a V5 for all it really affects anyone. </awful truth mode> [naive mode] I wouldn't know where to go looking for one though... [/naive] Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 For one of the engine transplants I did in the past - very possibly the 300tdi into a NA Diesel 110, instead of moving the mounts on the chassis, I just fabricated new mounts to bolt to the engine which placed the rubber mount in the right place for the chassis. I can't see why this would not be possible. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 For one of the engine transplants I did in the past - very possibly the 300tdi into a NA Diesel 110, instead of moving the mounts on the chassis, I just fabricated new mounts to bolt to the engine which placed the rubber mount in the right place for the chassis. I can't see why this would not be possible. Si Si From memory the standard TD/NA engine mount on the chassis is obstructed by the down pipe on the 300TDI. I know I found it easier to move the chassis mounts when I did mine. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Buy one from the man in the north on ebay (as seen on tv) I did and mine was rotten as a pear!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Yes, the TD mounts are further back. I had to make new ones when I converted mine to 300/Auto. Pete For one of the engine transplants I did in the past - very possibly the 300tdi into a NA Diesel 110, instead of moving the mounts on the chassis, I just fabricated new mounts to bolt to the engine which placed the rubber mount in the right place for the chassis. I can't see why this would not be possible. Si Si From memory the standard TD/NA engine mount on the chassis is obstructed by the down pipe on the 300TDI. I know I found it easier to move the chassis mounts when I did mine. Pete i've been looking at me father inlaws 300tdi and it uses the n/a mounts and the down pipe misses so i'm looking at my 300auto and think i can get it to fit without any problems if i had the money i'd buy a gav chassis with 300 brackets as it's not a mod thay should need IVA/SVA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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