carlosbeldia Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I've been searching around in the web looking for an straight change (10 splines) for a rear diff and their axles with no result. Can anybody tell me what else can I do? I need something like Ashcroft or KAM. I received an e-mail asking GBP 1000 for just a reinforced 10 splines diff custom made.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Well, assuming you can't fit something from a locally available truck (sacrilege, I Know - but needs must), then you could fit a detroit locker or a true trak into the existing diff. You could also fit the ring and pinion from a more modern vehicle, like a RRC or tdi200 disco - they are a fair bit stronger, as I understand it. As for the half shafts, then you could enquire locally at an engineering company - the half shafts aren't that difficult to make for an engineering firm. Based where you are, you would be best advised to look locally - the transport and customs duty would make anything else expensive. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 Transport and duties are not a problem (friend of mine coming to Colombia light of luggage), want my Series completly Series (already have a Defender, so Series is for fun, must be strong with all the jungle surrounding my city), not even a locker is an option, we want all original. Any idea for a company making these diffs stronger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Why does the diff matter so much, its not like you can see it. My 88 retains her original looks on the outside, on the inside she's more modern to make her a daily driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Hi Carlos You may benefit from pegging the diff to reduce CW deflection - Hybrid-from-hell / Nige on here has done a thread on here iirc and then custom made higher grade shafts . Which bits are breaking? The 1 ton 109 series III had Salisbury's front and rear but they are rare to find cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Suggestions are Upgrade diff centre to a 24 spline unit, maybe a 4pin or a locker. Contact KAM and get a set of there HD shafts that fit a Series but with 24 spline inners not 10 10 spline stuff is weaker than 24 spline due to the depth of the 10 spline splines invading the metal to a huge depth compared with 24 spline which means that fully splined the 24 spline has a core thickness far thicker than a 10 spline unit, add decent metal and heat treatments on top and bobs ywer fathers cat cosuin Having a local engineering firm knock up some shafts for you from unobtainuim etc is not the answer metal is pat of it yes, but polishing / heat treatment cryo freezing etc can tansform things to another dimension, is not as easy as just popping shafts out of a machine shop - if only ! Even then 10 spline anything = breakages = back to square one, except truck now unusable ! Thats a strong axle then Peg it and even stronger ) Hope this helps Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 think i need to peg my rear diff. my backlash has got seriously worse recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 I have three questions: - What is peg? how can that be done? - Using 24 splines diff and half shaft is an straight replacement? aren't 24 half shafts a little longer? - 24 splines are 3.54? my car is a 4.7 ratio, I don't wanti it to be changed Here I can relatively easy obtain a Santana Salisbury or ENV axles, but I consider they too bulky, a really pain in the ass in our off road courses, due to mud trails depth and even worst when you need an spare (10 splines Sallisbury). As per originality account, I'm not as interested in look as I'm in mechanical feeling. I've seen all kinds of mods in our Series, both Santana and english versions and none of them can match the efficiency of an 1959 english car a friend of mine drives..... it's almost the only car with absolutely everything original. Please have in mind we don't go to competitions or sport tracks, we use our Series as they used to be used here in Colombia: as workhorses in the jungle, where a locker is more a trouble than a help (personally haven't found the first "serious" track where you need a locker. By serious I mean work). I'd go with Genuine new diff if I could find it, but in 4.7 version, are they still in sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Get a salisbury diff and shave the bottom for more clearance, i think its the cheapest way to get the strength and retain clearance for a rear application. Front is a whole different ball game! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 I have three questions: - What is peg? how can that be done? - Using 24 splines diff and half shaft is an straight replacement? aren't 24 half shafts a little longer? - 24 splines are 3.54? my car is a 4.7 ratio, I don't wanti it to be changed Here I can relatively easy obtain a Santana Salisbury or ENV axles, but I consider they too bulky, a really pain in the ass in our off road courses, due to mud trails depth and even worst when you need an spare (10 splines Sallisbury). As per originality account, I'm not as interested in look as I'm in mechanical feeling. I've seen all kinds of mods in our Series, both Santana and english versions and none of them can match the efficiency of an 1959 english car a friend of mine drives..... it's almost the only car with absolutely everything original. Please have in mind we don't go to competitions or sport tracks, we use our Series as they used to be used here in Colombia: as workhorses in the jungle, where a locker is more a trouble than a help (personally haven't found the first "serious" track where you need a locker. By serious I mean work). I'd go with Genuine new diff if I could find it, but in 4.7 version, are they still in sale? Pegging is the ultimate finish to strengthening up a Land Rover Diff, BUT you would be wasting your time pegging a 2 pin diff. have a lookie here : You need a 4 pin. These can be built up into a Long Nose casing and with a 4.7 CW&P pegged or Unpegged. The KAM Series HD shafts are a direct upgrade and replacement, as the 10 spline are limited by spline invasion making the end core size smaller than 24 spline, hecne why 24 spine are srronger as standard , see the video KAM shafts for series are 24 spline so you can use 24 spline diff to gain strength, 4.7 CW&P is not as strong as a 3.54 so pegging might be an option, but its top end so I would say a 24 spine 4 pin and KAM 24 spline series Shafts would be a massive strength increase and pegging to much Over the top and is really for high level competition Land Rovers With shfats and diff nobody would be able to tell with stripping the axle down to its component parts ! A genuine new 2 pin diff is also a complete and utter waste of money, 2 pin diffs being only as strong as the centre single pin a la video Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 nige, you say that it is pointless to do it with a standard diff. what about when all the power is going through 1 diff. i know the pin is still more likely to break but my backlash has got worse and worse. cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Pointless pegging. 2 pin The pin is the weakest link You can put stocking suspenders high heels and lipstick on a pig but it's still a pig Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Having 3.54 in the rear make a must to have 3.54 in the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Having 3.54 in the rear make a must to have 3.54 in the front? Yes otherwise it'll go BANG when you engage 4x4 mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 You dont have to go 3.54. You can change the internals of a 4.7 to 24 splines. I run pegged diffs front and rear in my series. I run Kam 4.75 ring and pinions (much stronger than stock series 4.7's) on ARB's. Rear is 24 spline with Kam 24 spline uprated shafts. Front is still 10 spline inners, but i have uprated the outers to 24 spline lwb ones. The front shafts are the weak point as nobody makes uprated front shafts for a series. Not only the inner shafts, but also the u/j's in the tractor joints break under serious abuse. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 ... The front shafts are the weak point as nobody makes uprated front shafts for a series. Not only the inner shafts, but also the u/j's in the tractor joints break under serious abuse. Jon I'm going to be annoying now, because I don't have a source to hand, except the vague 'TeriAnn Wakeman has mentioned this, but I don't know if it's on her web site, or if it was just a forum comment'. I thought someone in North America made / assembled uprated front shafts / UJs, to cope with the V8s etc they sometimes use over there. I'll make that a statement, not a question. I will concede that by the time transport and import costs are taken into account, the price in the UK might be considered almost prohibitive, but for a man like you who has everything else .... :-) Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted May 24, 2012 Author Share Posted May 24, 2012 Thanks a lot Jon. Just another pair of question: - Those 24 spline axles are in the right lenght for Series? is just a matter of take off and put in? - Can I use the same Series Carrier with this 4.75 ratio? Old, those are GRB, but they ask USD 1900 just for the diff, another 1300 for rear halfshafts..... imagine how expensive could be the front axles..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 Here's an alternative solution to problem (it's what I've done on a couple of my Series) You need a 4-pin centre as stated earlier, a spacer for the crownwheel and a set of spacers for the bearings, allowing you to fit the lot into Series (Imperial) diffhousing. This will give you 24 spline at the center and a diff that is extremely strong (bearing in mind your R&P are still as weak as now, but running without to much air in you'r tyres really helps them survive) Now you need to sort the 24 spline at the center issue, without spending a fortune, and having parts readily available, you simply buy the halfshafts for a late 88" being 24 spline outer and 10 spline inner, you simply turn them around and cut a groove into the 10 splined end for a locking ring, and put the 24 spline end into the diff, and have 10 spline at the hub/flange. This way it's ALWAYS easy to change the shaft when it breaks, plus it seems to hold up better as the load is always harder at the diff end of the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 What is the timeline with 2 and 4 pin diffs regards models? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 theyre all 2 pin diffs as standard. although the TD5/P38 could be 4 pin as standard i cant remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 I'm going to be annoying now, because I don't have a source to hand, except the vague 'TeriAnn Wakeman has mentioned this, but I don't know if it's on her web site, or if it was just a forum comment'. I thought someone in North America made / assembled uprated front shafts / UJs, to cope with the V8s etc they sometimes use over there. I'll make that a statement, not a question. I will concede that by the time transport and import costs are taken into account, the price in the UK might be considered almost prohibitive, but for a man like you who has everything else .... :-) Good Luck. Yes they are made in the states, but its actually easier and cheaper to find a set of volvo portals. The manufacturer of said shafts will not supply them outside of the united states either. Maybe i should have phrased it as no-one makes front shafts at reasonable cost! The kam shafts are a straight swap. Series diff housings and defender ones are basically the same and most parts are interchangeable. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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