Jump to content

homemade spare wheel carrier anyone made one?


jon-t-08

Recommended Posts

First make yourself two pivots points, using 50mm box with one side cut out to form a U works well, epecially if you weld washers top and bottom to beaf it up. Mount the top one so that a horizontal length of 50x25mm lines up with the tailgate catch on the nearside, fit it with a catch for said tailgate antiluce. Connect the bottom hinge to the top rail with another length of 50x25 box, and add a vertical brace near the hinges. Fit a rear door carrier somewhere in the middle, send for galvanizing, job done.

I'll take some piccys when i get home, i owe lots of people piccys now!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apparently this is a 'Scrapiron' design (no idea, they pre-date my involvement with Landies), but the following linkie has lots of helpful piccies:

http://www.extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/REAR_WHEEL_CARRIERS.html

Also, check this chap's thread out (it's on a Toyota, but again lots of useful piccies):

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56385

Both links saved in my favourites under 'future projects'

HTH,

Matt

(Armchair fabricator)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you got a roofrack mike? How about some kind of de-rigable lifting eye to support a small block and tackle?

Your six years behind the times suggesting that. Done and dusted, posted on a few forums.

However

I'm sure a spare wheel carrier that will have the wheel fitted THEN lifted into place would be a good idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's mine. It started life as a Britpart swingaway, but the welding failed in 4 places over time, so I threw away the catch and modiied it....

2012-07-18_17-42-43_831.jpg

nice . want to make one the opens with the door will be a bit tricky getting the position right so the door will open all the way without the wheel hiting the body
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't finished mine yet but this is what I brought for the hinge - shame that the shipping was almost as much as the item itself. The upside is that it's really good quality piece of kit.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tire-carrier-hinge-kit-swing-out-away-pivot-point-rock-crawler-Jeep-CJ-YJ-TJ-NEW-/190646889116?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6370aa9c

Link to comment
Share on other sites

good good going to make one that opens with the door but think its gonna be a bit tricky getting the measurements right so the door opens all the way without hiting the body.

should be starting it soon just need to get the materials

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember seeing a big wheeled yank jeep that had a strap that went under the tyre circumfrentially on the deck and was then wound up with a tiny ratchetting winch and removable handle into a carrier. It held it tight against the top. Lift and lock in one relatively light package. the carrier was just a light perimeter frame that swung away for access. A pin went through the centre for safety and to lock it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

disco3 use a windy upy downy cable winch thing, so you don't have to lift wheels in and out of wheel well. The major fail though is the windy thing is, guess where? Yep in the boot floor under all the shopping/suitcases etc. Add the fact you then have to get under the back of the truck to release the cable and wind the flat back up there and it's a real bimmer. If Si could design a remote lowerer raiser for the disco3/rr sport etc sure there would be a few takers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Surely a standard Defender ratchet jack type affair could be mounted on a swingaway rear wheel carrier, and used to lower the wheel almost to the floor making it much easier to handle. It would take some ratcheting but it would make life easier for people with bad backs!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A sketch of just such a thing - from 2004!

post-74-0-40503200-1343227943_thumb.jpg

I drew this after a competition where my 35" tyre came off the rim & filled up with mud. It took two of us to lift it on to the wheel carrier!

However it is equally applicable to what you are describing above.

The wheel carrier uses a short knuckle bar (left of drawing) to connect it to the door. If you get the length of this just right, when you fully open the door, the knuckle goes over-centre and locks the door in the open position. To close, you just move the door, which pops the knuckle back over centre and it closes normally.

post-74-0-67735300-1343229143_thumb.jpg

It uses a ratchet strap to pull the two (telescopic) halves of the top bar together. As it's drawn, the last part of this motion engages the carrier with the knuckle attached to the door. On looking at it again, it might be better if you raise the carrier above the knuckle, then lower the pin into the knuckle bush - so the knuckle is partially responsible for keeping up that end should the ratchet strap fail.

This should make lifting a 100kg wheel rather easy! It's also easy to build! Why have I not built it? I have a drop down tail gate!

I like LR Farmers idea above of using Track Rod End ball joints. They might just have enough offset for my idea.

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Si, Your idea with a length of threaded bar instead of the ratchet strap would be a lot more secure and make lifting it very slick!

If rather slow?!

Maybe a threaded bar plus a window winder motor?

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are swing away wheel carriers really worth the hassle?

I know the idea is supposedly to save the rear door hinges, but my 110 came from special vehicles without the wheel carrier on the rear door and the hinges are still buggered anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are swing away wheel carriers really worth the hassle?

I know the idea is supposedly to save the rear door hinges, but my 110 came from special vehicles without the wheel carrier on the rear door and the hinges are still buggered anyway.

Only having done over 120,000 miles in mine. All I can say is I'm happy with both my Mantec swing away and my rear door hinges.

I must admit to standing on the spare wheel to fill the top box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

or a gate automation 12v telescopic ram, same thing but shielded from mud?

Good thinking that man! I've used these: http://www.ebay.co.u...tuator&_sacat=0 and similar sattelite dish actuators in a number of projects (including adjustable height suspension). They are much lower cost than most other linear actuators and pretty well built as they are designed for outdoor use.

Although they are rated at 24v (mostly), they run happily enough on 12v and could be powered off the tow-socket!

If you were to replace the studs that the wheel mounts on to with a lower hook facing down and a peg at the top, arranged that when you start to lift the tyre, the top peg is pulled upwards, the same arrangement could be used to secure the tyre in place too. A bit like this:

post-74-0-60108000-1343291790_thumb.jpg

So long as you could lock the whole thing off, it would be more secure than a simple nut!

I can see another project looming!

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy