Jump to content

300tdi water pump gasket


Bluemoon

Recommended Posts

Gasket material and a set of wad punches are quite okay using the pump base as a template - I've formed up several "spares" this way, the rat (notice here I'm very PC) in the woodpile is the metal pressed "P" gasket behind the pump and the clinder block.

As you have to loosen the bolts that hold this in place to replace the water pump gasket you would be unwise not to also replace it at the same time - and it only takes an additional 15 minutes to do so and you can check out the cylinder block welsh plug at the same time to see how it is faring. Incidentally I smear this gasket with liquid "Rolls Royce' air craft gasket goo to ensure it stays sealed :closedeyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes use a gasket. I have two lying about here, Want one ???

Weetabix packets are better than other breakfast food boxes for gaskets as they're slightly greasy where the others are dry

Always use a paper or card gasket, use grease both sides of the gasket, easier to take off if you have to replace things again.

To me any gasket glue on a gasket means a botched job where the person fitting the parts doesn't know how to ??

Ian

Why are wad punches necessary. I've found a ball toffee hammer or the ring end of a combination suitable to do the job

Link to comment
Share on other sites

gasket sealant of any sort is the work of the devil. Use a gasket with a smear of grease. Not got a gasket? Order 5 and it'll still cost more to post than the actual gasket and you'll have one next time.

Its the bushtucker man's dream...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find the silicone gasket stuff comes off way more easily than paper gaskets, and go wrong less often...

Yes. I find this too. The silicone gaskets just peel off. The paper ones just seem to stick and you risk damaging soft aluminium casings when removing them with a scraper or the like (perhaps more grease required when using them?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Silicone has it's uses where you have very old and slightly pitted or worn mating surfaces. I tend to use it for that reason. But in theory yes one should need only use either a gasket or sealant, depending on the application. A gasket in this case.

It's worth pointing out that a proper Land Rover gasket (or one made out of proper gasket material) is a lot better than the Britpart el-cheapo ones that are but a few microns thick!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's worth pointing out that a proper Land Rover gasket (or one made out of proper gasket material) is a lot better than the Britpart el-cheapo ones that are but a few microns thick!

Now I'll disagree on that. The drive flange gaskets that I have from Britpart are a lot thicker than the paper thin ones for Land Rover Genuine Parts....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I realise we're drifting off topic a little, but I had a couple of different gaskets in the garage and I remember thinking when I got them how different they were...

So, attached are four pics...

  • a Britpart hub gasket (0.36mm)
  • a Bearmach hub gasket (0.19mm)

...and for nothing other than curiosity...

  • an after-market 300TDI water pup gasket (keeping this on topic!) (0.76mm)
  • a Delphi fuel lift pump gasket (0.53mm)

Now, I still wonder why I needed two washers per pulley bolt to compensate for not having that 0.76mm gasket behind the pump?! Maybe I should go and measure the washers :-)

post-11857-0-57121000-1346581622_thumb.jpg

post-11857-0-59538800-1346581629_thumb.jpg

post-11857-0-51094500-1346581635_thumb.jpg

post-11857-0-48985100-1346581642_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Gasket material and a set of wad punches are quite okay using the pump base as a template - I've formed up several "spares" this way, the rat (notice here I'm very PC) in the woodpile is the metal pressed "P" gasket behind the pump and the cylinder block.

Sorry to pull up an old thread, just wondering what part number the metal "P" gasket is?

Cheers,

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gasket material and a set of wad punches are quite okay using the pump base as a template - I've formed up several "spares" this way, the rat (notice here I'm very PC) in the woodpile is the metal pressed "P" gasket behind the pump and the clinder block.

As you have to loosen the bolts that hold this in place to replace the water pump gasket you would be unwise not to also replace it at the same time - and it only takes an additional 15 minutes to do so and you can check out the cylinder block welsh plug at the same time to see how it is faring. Incidentally I smear this gasket with liquid "Rolls Royce' air craft gasket goo to ensure it stays sealed :closedeyes:

To take my previous question a little further; is it really worth changing the metal gasket? Boydie, I know you've said it's 15 minutes extra work, but these things do have a tendency to go a bit awry. I need to change the pump as the bearing is squeaking like a mouse on steroids!

Just to be clear this is my only means of transport... Can anyone give me a list of all of the tools and parts I might need to do this one?

Your help and advice really would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy