ronnie_rotten Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 i've spent most of the past 3 days lying in a muddy field trying to get a gearbox back into place after a clutch change (300tdi defender, r380 gbox) i've read and re-read les's guide, another one i found through google, and i even looked in a haynes manual for a laugh. i can't work out what we're doing wrong. i've done 2 clutch changes before, so i thought it would be simples. i've checked that the friction plate is in the right way round, the plate is correctly centered, turned the engine on the crank to line up the splines, raised and lowered gearbox and engine relative to each other, put m10 threaded bar in some holes to make sure the orientation is right, and invented new expletives, 'cos the 'stock' ones didn't work. i've gone back to square one 3 times, removing and re-fitting the friction plate and truely believing that the next time will be the last. it never is. i always end up with a half inch gap all the way round and no more movement. 'tis making me quite cross. what am i missing? i will accept all offerings, including ones that describe me as a tit of some sort. i need to get my mate sorted before i can get on with my life, which i really need to do. soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzza Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 You did change the release bearing? Is it the right one and correctly located in the arm, is the spigot bearing in the crank ok, nothing in there that shouldn't be. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 is the spigot bearing in the crank ok, nothing in there that shouldn't be. Steve I was wondering this. Is it the right one and if so, is it damaged at all? If it was bent slightly on fitting, this could easily prevent the input shaft engaging in it. Also, is the friction plate centred properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 I had similar problem on a 200tdi turned out the spigot bush was a v8 type which is about 4mm smaller internally. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronnie_rotten Posted November 18, 2012 Author Share Posted November 18, 2012 i used to own this truck and changed the clutch a couple of years ago. under extreme use (and poor judgement) the new owner burnt out the clutch. knowing it wasn't really the right thing to do, but also knowing the relative youth of the other componants, he just bought a new friction plate. i believe the kit i bought was a borg one, not really sure which parts he sourced... ...could it be the plate has different dimensions? is it thicker? that would explain the consistant gap i guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronnie_rotten Posted November 18, 2012 Author Share Posted November 18, 2012 spigot bearing being the brassy cylinder thing? looked ok, went back in clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronnie_rotten Posted November 18, 2012 Author Share Posted November 18, 2012 You did change the release bearing? Is it the right one and correctly located in the arm, is the spigot bearing in the crank ok, nothing in there that shouldn't be. Steve bearing not changed (\naughty naughty, i know) but seated correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 spigot bearing being the brassy cylinder thing? looked ok, went back in clean. Was it a new one or the old one? If its a new one, was it the correct type as suggested by Mike above? I'm stumped otherwise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 The last time I had to do one by moving the gearbox back it didn't want to go all the way on either. After a good few hours I just got fed up with it, grabed hold of the chassis rails, put both boots on the back of the gearbox and rammed it forward with a jiggle with all my might and it slid on with annoying ease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 The last time I had to do one by moving the gearbox back it didn't want to go all the way on either. After a good few hours I just got fed up with it, grabed hold of the chassis rails, put both boots on the back of the gearbox and rammed it forward with a jiggle with all my might and it slid on with annoying ease. I had an identical experience. I think it was down to the gearbox input shaft being a tight fit in the spigot bush. I could hardly get the clutch alignment tool out of the bush once in the flywheel, whereas when I trial fitted it to the bush beforehand, it was fine. Fitting the bolts and trying to pull it towards the bellhousing didn't do much. I had to wiggle the gearbox updownleftright from the end to eventually get it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challo Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 Have you checked the dowels on the gearbox and flywheel cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronnie_rotten Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 hmm. i'm losing sleep over this now! all prts apart from the friction plate are being reused, so they're definately right. i've had a bloody good wriggle/kick from the back end a few times, and i suspect that's the way i'll be spending most of tomorrow. wriggle-kicking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronnie_rotten Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 sorted. finally. didmexactly the same as we've been doing for days, and this time it worked. stoopid motors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbj Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 sorted. finally. didmexactly the same as we've been doing for days, and this time it worked. stoopid motors! That seem to be the rule. Often fighting with the same stupid thing for a long time. Give up, Go in for a cup of tea, Go out and everything fits straight in first time - beats me why...... Lars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzza Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 That seem to be the rule. Often fighting with the same stupid thing for a long time. Give up, Go in for a cup of tea, Go out and everything fits straight in first time - beats me why...... Lars It's all in the mind, .... and your arms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 if not done yet. my trick that seems to work every time is once youve turned the engine to line the splines up (which is done with box in gear so cant move) if you then take it out of gear, and continue to turn the crank whilst lining up the box (this helps the shaft to line up properly with the flange on the clutch) might need 2 or 3 full turns. if that doesent work. which it should. then press the clutch pedal whilst turning the crank (not by starter motor) and it will slot in. then its just a case of wiggle it on and nip up the bellhousing bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 sorted. finally. didmexactly the same as we've been doing for days, and this time it worked. stoopid motors! glad it all popped into place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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